No kilomilliamp silly

Should be Wh anyway.

Nah it's kilometer amp hours

and it's not just vertical alignment, but horizontal too!

the problem with mine was that the weather stripping was pushing the door inwards, not that the hinges needed adjustment. had to move the latch plate inwards / file clearance into it so the deadbolt would catch where the knob latch let the door sit

This is why I haven't replaced mine. There's no real "fixing" this door. It needs to be replaced. That being said if you shoulder check it hard enough it will break open. Ah the fun of inheriting a house that sat vacant for 3 years and had no maintenance for longer than that.

Yea its weird. I think its the AI and Data center hate. I am as local as I can be for my stuff and AI free. 99% of my stuff is Home Assistant, ESPhome, and Zigwave.

I mean, there has always been a correlation between being technical (as in profession/skills) and being paranoid about technology. When you are in the field, you get a window into how ignorant most of the tech products are security-wise for example. And I guess a good portion of 3d printing people - especially the ones on lemmy - are technical (as in profession/skills), not/not only tech lovers.

So long as it has a physical backup and can stay on my network I'm happy. I also need low power draw to stay bellow my 20w idle power budget but that's a me problem.

If anyone has a vertically mounted stainless steel option with a keypad to recommend I'm all ears!

At this point I’m quite heavily invested in smart home tech, but smart locks are one of the few things I haven’t touched.

Any exploit found in these devices could be packaged into a smartphone app and easily accessed by anyone. Someone hacking the lock that way would look no different to a legitimate user. Firmware updates for these devices seem sporadic at best.

It’s a security concern I don’t want to have to worry about, even if there are convenience benefits.

Sometimes IOT devices don't make rational sense to install. This is up there with "smart" lightbulbs in terms of creating a vulnerability through convenience.

When I 3d print a plastic phone mount for my bike, that doesn't make the base bike any easier to steal. This does make your house less secure, even though it adds utility.

Idk how they are built but i'd guess any power outtage would lock you out right?

May be an access issue. Enough distance and running a cable becomes a pain in the ass in a way that can make this more appealing. It's why I don't have an Ethernet cable in one room of my house; I'd have to climb either across the attic, or in the crawlspace, and neither are gonna happen voluntarily. So I deal with a crappy wifi dongle for the ancient PC in that room instead.

The only issue with the rechargeable lithium batteries is that their voltage curve is extremely sharp, so they hold the 1.5v right up until they die.

Depending on how the electronics and battery match up, your deadbolt might not be able to warn you about a low battery condition, which might mean you get locked out. I currently have two doors, both with a keypad entry, so it's extremely unlikely they'll both be dead at the same time. If you only have one keypad entry, then you should probably avoid using lithium rechargeable AA's.

Just my 2c but I have 15 year old Eneloops still going. They do have a lower voltage output which isn't good for certain applications, but they are great for kids toys, remotes, flashlights/headlamps in my experience. Of the probably 60-70 I've bought, the only failures I've had are with the Pros, don't waste money on those. I'll have to check out Nitecore though.

If your Eneloops are failing that much, they are either being over discharged or something is wrong with your charger.

All of my Eneloops have been much more reliable than lithium ion batteries.

Just anecdotal here, but I haven't had a single eneloop fail me. Heck, I haven't even had rebadged eneloops fail either.

30+% failure rate every recharge cycle

What is considered a "failure" in this context?

I had a similar failure rate then changed my charger and haven't had a battery fail since. My original charger was Energiser branded, which is the most common battery where I live so I thought it had to be fine. I replaced it with an eneloop BQ-CC55. I don't love it - it's a fast charger and it makes batteries uncomfortably hot, but it was able to charge batteries to full health that both my energiser and trickle charger thought were dead dead. That includes energiser batteries!

This did make me realize I've never seen a deadbolt reversed. As in the door having just a metal framed hole, and the bolt come out of the frame. Seems like the easiest way you would be able to run power to it. (Maybe not the most structurally sound, probably depends on the door material)

I could, I actually have a outlet near that I could just run the wire to the battery pack to keep it charged and so the battery would just be a UPS. Actually a good idea and I could have just used 2 18650s for the UPS.

Although this model has a external port to jump start from a USB battery pack.

Most battery powered door locks come with some sort of alternative way to power them from the exterior for emergencies. Or they just have a mechanical bolt.

They do ... 1.2v output is low compared to the 1.5v alkaline .. they lose charge as they sit there doing nothing unless Enerloop which is expensive and still 1.2v - I recently converted the wife's led candles (2 x AA) each to 2 18650 each and now I don't have to charge the things for 15 or so weeks. This guy knows.

You can the model in one image I posted. Its a Ultraloc, I dont recommend but it is better than my old schlage since when those batteries died you are screwed but these have a backup external power plug.