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[–] 111 points 3 months ago (7 children)

Interesting. This post was just below another post on my feed

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  • [–] [S] 57 points 3 months ago (5 children)

    same poster too, that's weird

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  • [–] 27 points 3 months ago (3 children)

    So you think these things are somehow related? I can't see how.

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  • [–] 56 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (2 children)

    Regular cutting disks are made, at least in part, from aluminum oxide. The cut aluminum tends to bond to the disks, slowing them down, and making the disk slower.

    There are specific aluminum cutting disks that don't clog, making the cut much faster.

    Just saying.

    Also, if using a reciprocating saw, keep the guard against the material, it's there to prevent the blade from jumping when it snags.

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  • [–] 51 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    I will never understand why people take the guards off their grinders. When those discs go pop they're gonna fuck you up.

    And do you really wanna get fucked up in service of fucking over a Flock camera random aluminium tube on a job site?

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  • [–] 13 points 3 months ago

    Because it’s hard or impossible to fit the grinders in some spaces like inside corners because the guards hit structure. I keep my guards on but it’s a pain in the ass to have to keep swiveling the guard to get into some spots, if it will fit at all. Either way, wearing a full face shield ppe is the minimum when using one of these. Guard or not they do a lot of damage when they let go.

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  • [–] 31 points 3 months ago (6 children)

    If the sawzall is vibrating your hands, you aren't using it right. The workpiece should be tight against the shoe, not floating in the middle of the blade. Push the tool hard against the workpiece, and slowly lever the blade through the cut.

    If you're using it right, it will take less than 30 seconds. Longer than the circular saw, but much easier to handle. It only requires one cut instead of two.

    Circular saw will not work on steel pipes; reciprocating saw will, with either a demolition blade or a metal cutting blade.

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  • [–] 4 points 3 months ago (3 children)

    Yeah I thought he had gummed up a fine tooth metal blade the way it was cutting, but that was a carbide thick metal blade. Still had melted aluminum on it, but plenty of cutting left in it.

    Dunno if he was intentionally doing it wrong but the shoe definitely needs to be kept up against the material of at all possible. (You know, unless you're demoing out a residential door frame or something that needs a little room to breath)

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (2 children)

    There is a reason to take these working piece off the shoe and it is to have the blade last longer by using other spots on the blade. It also help reduce heat which extends the life of the blade as well.

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago

    Yes yes, all true. Dude was not cutting that aluminum pipe efficiently tho.

    It's amazing how much of tool use is intuitive. I don't really put into words a lot of what I do because it's just, you know, the right way to do it

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago

    Good tools have extendable shoes, rather than fixed. When you wear out the bottom of a blade, you can extend the shoe past the worn out part of the blade and keep cutting.

    When you aren't working against the shoe, you have to take care to ensure the blade is actually reciprocating through the workpiece. When the blade binds in the work, the tool reciprocates rather than the blade, and the blade isn't cutting the piece.

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  • [–] 29 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Interesting and informative video.

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  • [–] 28 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (6 children)

    I can't tell what exactly he used in the circular saw, but if it's a saw meant for cutting wood, you can only get away with cutting aluminum, not steel or anything else harder than aluminum. That's fine in this use case though. If you do have a wood cutting saw, you'll either want a blade for aluminum or a high tooth wood blade.

    If they start using steel for their posts, you'll want to upgrade to a saw and saw blade meant for steel. They make carbide blades for hard metals.

    https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/g19731042/cordless-metal-cutting-saws/

    "Unlike France, we're got going to give up our liberties for safety."

    I hope he's being ironic with that one. The French are the first willing to burn things to the ground if the government starts encroaching on their rights.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago

    Also, if pure speed is your game and noise is not a problem, a gas powered cut off saw will eat a pole like this like butter. But they spray sparks everywhere and make a TON of noise. Battery powered circular saws are the clear winner

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (1 child)

    Your link to the saws is a bit outdated, here is a great deal on a modern cordless metal cutting circular saws that is made for this stuff:

    https://store.evolutionpowertools.com/products/s210ccs?variant=39500633342045&country=US&currency=USD&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=22397194444&tw_kwdid=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22397242792&gbraid=0AAAAACV6D5bOtcxtSdw9BS0J9u402hEyV

    And if you want to be a big shot:

    https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tools/circular-saws/F012588?store=12159&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20155431020&gbraid=0AAAAADtqLJHvY2T5l_t-mgCvNHJ6QX9Ib&variationProductCode=2052380

    These units are more powerful, faster, and designed for cutting a variety of metals you may encounter on the streets. They also collect chips so the risk of them getting in your clothes as evidence against you is reduced.

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago

    I just don't want to come across as shilling any one brand and just posted one of the first overviews I found. I bought my metal cutting saws years ago for fab work, so I'm otherwise, speaking from experience.

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  • [–] 99 points 3 months ago* (15 children)

    There are so many issues with this video.

    When using power tools, safety should be your number one concern.

    1. Never use an angle grinder without the blade guard installed. Is it inconvenient at times? Sure. But you know what else is inconvenient? Trying not to bleed to death or being blinded over what should have been a quick and easy job.
    2. Always wear the proper personal protective equipment (PPE). That includes a heavy long sleeve shirt, gloves, safety classes, a dust mask, and a hard hat (especially when cutting poles or other materials that are vertical and have a risk of falling).
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  • [–] 15 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    The hard hat especially. A professor at my college died from shrapnel to the brain, and they had taken every precaution but that.

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  • [–] 13 points 3 months ago (6 children)

    Definitely, if cutting down aluminum posts in public, the most inconspicuous thing is doing it im the daytime, wearing a hard hat, tinted saftey glasses, a high vis vest, saftey gloves etc.

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  • [–] 14 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Have your spotter dressed in the same attire but with a clipboard.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    If you're dressing up to take it down, you're better off with wrenches to take it down properly. Everyone going to know what you're doing cutting it in half. Make sure to wear electrical insulated gloves(also good for hiding finger prints), cap off the live wires with wire nuts and leave a traffic cone.

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (1 child)

    Taking it down properly makes it easier* for them to put it back up though

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  • [–] 7 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Also, a portable band saw would cut through like butter compared to an angle grinder plus it's orders of magnitude quieter. I can get through 4", 3/16 drop posts in like 20 seconds with a band saw and it's much safer

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  • [–] 21 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    I had to cut some steel poles off a trampoline frame.

    Mind you, i'm not very strong but I was able to use a hacksaw I bought for like $20. It had grips on both sides.

    I cut off all the poles in about 20 min. Just gotta keep it level. Makes very little noise.

    I wore grip gloves to make it easier.

    I highly recommend hacksaws with grips on both ends as this really helped. I bet someone stronger than me could cut through a pipe in about a min or 2 with one of them.

    Barely making any noise.

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago*

    You would probably also want to wear a mask to keep from breathing metal powder. Eye protection as well!

    Something something magnetic so don't carry a phone.

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  • [–] 16 points 3 months ago (11 children)

    He's neglecting one important competitor: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/details/m18-fuel-deep-cut-band-saw/2929-20

    It might not be the lightest or most discreet tool, but with a quoted 40 second cut through a 4" iron pipe, 2.5" aluminium should present no issues.

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago (9 children)

    Yea but a circular saw is much more common. How many work trucks has a deep cut band saw in em?

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  • [–] 0 points 3 months ago (6 children)

    Am I missing something, possibly a joke? When he goes for the saw in the video the pipe is clearly already pretty much cut

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago (3 children)

    they cut a little bit further

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (2 children)
  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (1 child)

    That being said, please do not attempt this in real life. These sign posts/ camera posts are often made of steel. For safely cutting any harder metal with a saw, you should use way slower blades (like a tenth of the speed of a wood saw). In the best case your blade will just fuse with the metal pole. In the worst case, your blade shatters or you will get a kick back that breaks your bones easily.

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  • [–] 4 points 3 months ago*

    or you will get a kick back that breaks your bones easily.

    Are… are your bones made of glass?

    Did you modify your saw? Is it now powered using a chainsaw engine?

    (You're right about the shattered blade, and the kickback can be brutal)

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  • [–] 16 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    You know, Gallium is pretty neat, does all sorts of fun stuff with Aluminum.

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  • [–] 15 points 3 months ago

    Good knowledge for everyone to know. For no reason other than to share knowledge. Yes.

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  • [–] 23 points 3 months ago (7 children)

    France getting hit by a stray bullet for what reason?

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  • [–] 13 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Seems like he’s being facetious throughout, so probably using France since they tend to actually do things when their government does something dumb/fascist.

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  • It's also a clever double entendre because there has been plenty of hating on the French in the US over the years despite them being one of our closest allies since they armed us during the revolutionary war. I noticed it decades before 2001, but it really intensified again for a while during the Iraq war because France refused to get involved. Remember "freedom fries"?

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  • [–] 11 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    I've found when cutting or milling aluminum that the cuts go faster and my blade stays cleaner using a cutting fluid.

    My go-to for field work is Anchorlube. Water based, easy cleanup, and it sticks to vertical surfaces pretty well, but will still flow when needed. All of that balling on the blades goes away of you use a little cutting fluid

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Definitely need to use something if you're pushing your feeds and speeds or otherwise generating heat.

    Tools coated in (non-aluminum) coatings - Titanium nitride, titanium carbonitride, titanium diboride, etc) work much better than bare steel or carbide tooling. (TiAlN/AlTiN and other aluminum-based coatings are much, much worse...)

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  • [–] 11 points 3 months ago (3 children)
  • [–] 7 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Great for clean copper cuts but not super fast and won't work if it's not perfectly round.

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  • [–] 7 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Those who give up Liberty for safety deserve neither.

    Write that down.

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  • [–] 7 points 3 months ago (5 children)

    Fun fact: a handful of sparklers get hot enough to melt aluminium pipe.

    Source: once made a smokebomb that way that ended up melting halfway through.

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago (4 children)

    Has anyone considered gallium?

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Gallium would be slow and uneven

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  • [+] 15 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (7 children)
  • [–] 8 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    This would be a good time waster, but that depends on how they "repair" them. Do they diagnose the issues, or do they just install a new one and toss the old one?

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    It probably wouldn't take long to figure out that it isn't getting power through the solar panels. I'd guess testing the voltage on those connectors would be one of the earlier checks they do (there's probably even an led on that circuit so they can see without even needing the voltmeter).

    Someone might get hurt when a strong gust of wind finishes that cut, too.

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  • [–] 4 points 3 months ago

    Sending someone out to test it is what costs the money. There aren’t “Flock Techs” that get a salary to fix these things, they just hire contractors to do installs and move on.

    Every minute it’s down is a dollar out of Flock’s pocket because it’s not transmitting anything useful and every contractor hired to diagnose the issue is another dollar out of the pocket of the people that contracted with Flock.

    Seems like a reasonably sound strategy outside of the safety concern imo.

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  • [–] 5 points 3 months ago

    A portable band saw with the appropriate blade for either soft metal or hard metals is the only thing I'd use

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago

    This will come in very useful for building my roof drain! 👍

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