She should be fed feet-first through a wood chipper”, you would probably not be successfully prosecuted for incitement.

This is true, up until the point where she is actually fed feet-first through a wood chipper. That she was actually fed feet-first through a wood chipper is prima facie evidence that your rhetoric inspired the lawless action of which you spoke.

What extortion?

"Our urine soup is bundled with our turd sandwich. If you won't eat our turd sandwich, we won't let you have our urine soup."

The way they arranged their ultimatum, one would expect "Google Search" to be a desirable product, rather than a steaming bowl of piss.

I think people are getting confused because the format of the ultimatum looks a lot like extortion, when it's actually just clever marketing for some inferior products: "This urine soup must be good if they expect us to choke down a turd sandwich just to try it."

Parents and teachers are taking the wrong approach here. The proper response is "Your terms are acceptable".

Google no longer has a monopoly on search. They don't even have a particularly good search engine anymore. Even if the administrators want to keep some of the AI tools, they should get rid of Google search anyway.

I prefer a gooner rhombus.

Bi level? Kitchen at the top of the stairs? Master bedroom down the hall to the right, just after the bathroom, with toilet, sink, and tub on the right wall? Two smaller bedrooms across from the master and bathroom? Built in the late 1960s?

One car or two-car attached garage? Was the attached garage under the master bedroom, or did you have the family room there, with the garage adjacent?

Yes.

However, "best" is subjective. What is "best" for the worker is not what is best for the shareholder. Every cent that company pays its workers is a cent that can't be paid to shareholders, so the CEO's motivation is to fuck over his workers as much as they will tolerate.

Thanks, I hate it.

I was pretty sure you guys on that side of the pond could draw a lot more... AFAIK, you have kettles that draw 3000W, which is 12.5A @ 240V.

(Technically, we can install an outlet capable of doing that, but they are not typical in residential use. Outside of commercial-grade appliances and dedicated circuits, we're pretty much limited to 1500-1800 watt portable appliances here. Fixed appliances like ranges, water heaters, pools, spas, are effectively unlimited, of course.)

It depends on where the fault is. Starting at the input power from the cord, the first component on the circuit board is going to be a factory installed fuse. It's probably the same on circuit boards made for UK and EU devices because it makes good engineering sense to do it that way, even if the plug is equipped with a fuse. So if the fault is somewhere on the board, it blows the appliance fuse. If it's somewhere before the appliance fuse, it blows either the plug fuse (if equipped), or the breaker.

No. Our appliance wiring standards basically require every appliance to be able to tolerate a fault current high enough to trip a breaker. We put a 20A cord on a 500mA clock radio. If we get a short inside the appliance, it will draw enough current to trip the breaker.

The UK allows appliances to have much much lower fault current requirements than their household wiring. They can get away with this by including a current limiter (a fuse) in their plugs.

We do have provisions for fuses in plugs, but they are typically only used where we would use a lot of very low current wiring: Christmas lighting typically has a tiny fuse in the plug protecting very small wiring.

15A @ 120V. Basically, 7.5A @ 240V.

so they have to routinely change the the tiny circuit breaker at the consumer unit,

If I understand the nomenclature correctly, your "consumer unit" is our "load panel" or "breaker box". We use 15A or 20A breakers for our typical outlets.

If you used unfused plugs, your lower-rated cords could potentially reach fire temperatures without drawing enough current to trip the breaker in the consumer unit. Which is why you use fused plugs: to protect the lower-rated wiring from higher current.

The US uses a different approach. If we used power cords rated to 5A for a 5A appliance, and we plugged them into a 20A circuit, we could have the same problem: A 15A fault current through this cord wouldn't trip the breaker, but could start a fire. So we don't do that. Even on our lowest current, corded appliances, we use a cord that is rated to carry a 20A fault current capable of tripping the breaker.

(You will occasionally find cords rated for 7A. This is 7A duty current, and the limitation is because of the specific appliance socket, which has a fuse immediately inside the casing, and other restrictions. The 7A rating is not on the wire itself. On these cords, the wiring is still required to have a fault current rating of 20A)