[–] 3 points 12 hours ago

Counter suggestion, FlashForge is pretty reliable when it comes to things that just work out of the box. I have an AD5X and it put out the first print before I had all the packagintlg picked up. There are a few quality of life changes I've had to make, it's built to be plug and play and because of that some of the more esoteric things have to be jailbroken. All the same, it does 4 color and the enclosure kit is self printed, it's been incredibly reliable, and I've had less failed prints than I have successes with some models. I can't do high detailed minis with it but I also don't need to babysit it, half the time I'm printing from a different room and don't even check on it.

All in all, it's a fantastic gateway to the hobby and when you get in deep enough to run into it's limitations, it's still a reliable workhorse to run on the side of something more finely tuned.

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  • [–] 3 points 12 hours ago

    As far as etiquette at the store, I can't help because I get mine online, but I have some pro tips for finding the right ones!

    If you have a lady friend with a similar body type to you, ask what size she wears. Even if she's propositionally smaller or larger than you, you should be able to scale the info to your size.

    Get proper measurements. Crotch to ankle on the inside of the leg, around the thigh, and around the waist above the hips and on the hips. Knowing these, you can literally just measure the fit if not order them on measures.

    Look for high waisted tights. Ladies don't have the extra hardware between the legs so the inseam can go all the way up, guys normally need 2-5in free space. Unless you're planning on tucking constantly, getting high waisted means they aren't halfway off your butt all day.

    It helps to shave your legs while you're getting used to them. The hairs can get tangled, pulled and itchy for a while when you're first getting used to them.

    I use mine as lining for pants during winter, if that's your plan, go for a shiny, less cottony fabric. The synthetics don't pill as easily and don't have as much friction when pulling on jeans. Also, aim for less than more. You may think you want those fur lined flanel tights, but under other pants, those are going to have you cooking like a goose. They're made to replace pants so pretend they're a whole layer on their own.

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  • [–] 1 point 13 hours ago

    At about the hour mark it would still play the second half of the music but the first half sounded like a broken vcr trying to rewind. The voice was mostly just moaning but like, when an old voice to text trys to read "ooooooooohhhh" as O, O, O, O, oo, O, O, oh, heavy sight, "letter H".

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  • [–] 2 points 14 hours ago

    Hey, the playstation modding scene has been booming lately, if you're on ps4 or some updates for ps5, there's a really easy way to get it all back and then some for about 20min of tutorial time. Go turn off auto updates if you're on ps5, that way you can wait for the mods to catch up with your version if you're outside the golden zone.

    If you want, I can even help you work through it if you're worried. Goes for anyone reading this, hit me up. If we can't own games then piracy isn't stealing.

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  •  

    6086

    I am limited by the confines of my tools, but these are the layers needed.

    Here is the command to generate it fully formed.

    !give @p minecraft:red_banner[banner_patterns=[{"pattern":"minecraft:stripe_center","color":"white"},{"pattern":"minecraft:rhombus","color":"lime"},{"pattern":"minecraft:triangles_top","color":"lime"},{"pattern":"minecraft:guster","color":"pink"},{"pattern":"minecraft:diagonal_up_left","color":"lime"},{"pattern":"minecraft:diagonal_up_right","color":"lime"}]]!<

     

    cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/52327536

    TL;DR: I have a desk like the one pictured and I want to build a PC into the bottom left hand drawer and a power bar and fan set into the body. so that it's my dream desk. What do I need to know before I do this?

    So I have a very similar desk to the image provided (not my desk it's currently covered in projects), it's a mid century tanker desk with Formica top. I also have a modestly good PC that I use for gaming. Unfortunately my tower is pretty bulky and this desk definitely wasn't built with the idea of that in mind.

    I'm considering modifying the desk so that I can fit the internals of the PC into the bottom drawer on the left side. currently, everything will be able to fit and if I place the board at the middle I will be able to upgrade the graphics card (whenever they become affordable) without issue as that would be the biggest concern space wise.

    The two biggest issues I foresee are cooling and cable. For cables, I'm thinking I'll get extenders for the video, internet, USB's, and run them through the body of the desk. one side will feed into the drawer to connect to the PC with a little slack to allow the drawer to slide, the other will be part of a tasteful 3d printed hub on the desk, either under the lip of the back or on the table top. That way I'd be able to plug in flash drives or the monitors without trouble.

    Cooling is a trickier matter. The entire desk is enclosed but not air tight by any measure. I figure, I can drill out a vent pattern in the bottom front and top back of the left tower to allow a sort of chimney effect, the hot air coming out the back of the desk will draw fresh air in to the bottom. From there, I do a similar bottom front, top back array for fans on the drawer itself, so that it draws cool air into the enclosed space near the desk intake hole, and blows hot air up the back wall of the desk. I could then even wire fans into the desk itself to further move the air if it's not staying cool enough as I already plan to be in there running wires and maybe installing a power supply so that I always have a free outlet to test things with.

    All that said, This is a bit more involved than the case mods I've previously done on PCs, and while I am confidant that I can do all this without damaging anything, I would like some input from others before I jump on it. Is there anything I should consider? anything I'm overlooking? I have a deep love for these desks and I've always wanted to integrate a computer into my desk instead of just sitting it near by. Now I kind of have the resourced and tools I need for both. I just want to make sure I do it right.

     

    TL;DR: I have a desk like the one pictured and I want to build a PC into the bottom left hand drawer and a power bar and fan set into the body. so that it's my dream desk. What do I need to know before I do this?

    So I have a very similar desk to the image provided (not my desk it's currently covered in projects), it's a mid century tanker desk with Formica top. I also have a modestly good PC that I use for gaming. Unfortunately my tower is pretty bulky and this desk definitely wasn't built with the idea of that in mind.

    I'm considering modifying the desk so that I can fit the internals of the PC into the bottom drawer on the left side. currently, everything will be able to fit and if I place the board at the middle I will be able to upgrade the graphics card (whenever they become affordable) without issue as that would be the biggest concern space wise.

    The two biggest issues I foresee are cooling and cable. For cables, I'm thinking I'll get extenders for the video, internet, USB's, and run them through the body of the desk. one side will feed into the drawer to connect to the PC with a little slack to allow the drawer to slide, the other will be part of a tasteful 3d printed hub on the desk, either under the lip of the back or on the table top. That way I'd be able to plug in flash drives or the monitors without trouble.

    Cooling is a trickier matter. The entire desk is enclosed but not air tight by any measure. I figure, I can drill out a vent pattern in the bottom front and top back of the left tower to allow a sort of chimney effect, the hot air coming out the back of the desk will draw fresh air in to the bottom. From there, I do a similar bottom front, top back array for fans on the drawer itself, so that it draws cool air into the enclosed space near the desk intake hole, and blows hot air up the back wall of the desk. I could then even wire fans into the desk itself to further move the air if it's not staying cool enough as I already plan to be in there running wires and maybe installing a power supply so that I always have a free outlet to test things with.

    All that said, This is a bit more involved than the case mods I've previously done on PCs, and while I am confidant that I can do all this without damaging anything, I would like some input from others before I jump on it. Is there anything I should consider? anything I'm overlooking? I have a deep love for these desks and I've always wanted to integrate a computer into my desk instead of just sitting it near by. Now I kind of have the resourced and tools I need for both. I just want to make sure I do it right.

     

    Hey gang, my family and I have been playing on hacked Ds's, mainly to play gen1-7 Pokemon all the way through. But with us using ROMs, everything is digital and I really long for that game cart era tactile feel of plug and play.

    Is there a way to use the old flash carts as stand alone game carts? Like they just have 2gb SD card and one game each and when you plug them in they run from the game slot on the ds home screen?

     

    I want to turn all my power tools and batteries a universal connector like USB-C. I have a 3d printerand skills so getting the manual interface is easy enough, but I don't a lot about ports and tech. I'm learning fast, but I'm not quite there yet.

    From what I understand, I'd need to put a female port on the battery which isn't difficult and has been done plenty for charging.

    I'd need to put a male plug on the tools to interface with it, and my initial research says I can't just solder the power pins to the cables in the tool, I'll need a circuit board that requests the 20v from the usb source? Is that doable? It looks like I can pick them up on AliExpress. But I need a qualified adult to verify that's what I need to do.

    From there, would I be able to cord them with this method or would I need to build a better usb charger port?

    Is there a better port to use? Usb-C is nice and small so I can fit it in wherever I like, but can it handle tool use? Would it be better to do usb or something else?

     

    So I'm kind of new to electronics but I understand a fair bit. The power button he solders in connects the board directly to the ground through the grounding pad and one of pins for the port to the button. This bypasses the capacitive touch sensor on the 360 slim and allows you to turn the console on with a physical button.

    How exactly is that happening?

    How does capacitive touch work?

    Isn't this the same as connecting the board->ground and pin->button->ground? As I understand, electricity takes the path of least resistance so both lines will flow to the ground, or is it different in circuitry than houses?

    If so, could I wire to use a 2 pin mechanical keyboard button for the power button to connect the pin to the ground and just bar fuse the board and ground?

    The touch pads have very easy to follow traces that connect 5:5 to the port I understand that capacitive touch is different somehow, but couldn't you just solder a button to the contacts on the port?

    Any help would be appreciated, I'm working on a total overhaul of my old 360 slim and this is going to be a big part of the aesthetics when I'm done. I'd very much like to get a good tactile button for the power and eject.

     

    https://youtu.be/ZFikMkSPFWE

    So I'm kind of new to electronics but I understand a fair bit. The power button he wires in connects the board directly to the ground through the grounding pad and one of pins for the port to the button. This bypasses the capacitive touch sensor on the 360 slim and turns it into a mechanical button.

    How?

    Isn't this the same as connecting the board->ground and pin->button->ground?

    If so, could I do that to use a mechanical keyboard button for the power button?

    Is there any reason you can't wire them to the port on the bottom left that the ribbon cable for the stock buttons connect to?

    Any help would be appreciated, I'm working on a total overhaul of my old 360 slim and this is going to be a big part of the aesthetics when I'm done.

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