Today I did my first 20 mile (33km) ride on my hardtail XC bike. I learned how to ride a bike about 1.5 months ago, but I've been riding pretty consistently since I learned. I ride exclusively in the city, it's a very walkable city, but the paths aren't always the best. I did 33km in 2 hours 53 minutes, not including breaks for water or to eat.

I see people saying that 10MP/H (16KM/H) average is a good average to shoot for, but i can't even get my average above 7.1MPH (11.5KM/H), even on shorter rides. What am I doing wrong here? How are people going so freaking fast on bikes in cities?

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[–] 27 points 1 year ago (1 child)

It's awesome that you are cycling! If you learned only 1.5 months ago and are already doing 20 mile rides you are doing great. Your body probably needs to adapt to the movement a bit, so I wouldn't worry too much about speed just yet.

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  • [–] 20 points 1 year ago (18 children)

    City riding is slow.

    Pump up your tyres.

    Go at whatever speed you like.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 1 year ago (17 children)

    Will I get a dented rim or a popped tire if I go down stairs at 50-55PSI? The tire is rated to 65.

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  • [–] 9 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    You learned how to ride a bike a month and a half ago and you're already talking about going down stairs? I'm not gonna tell you you're wrong, but I will say that's pretty damn adventurous!

    I'd suggest getting some more experience so you develop some feel for how different tire pressures work (and more importantly, how shifting your weight forwards and backwards works and other bike-control stuff like that) before trying that. But then again, I've been riding since I was a kid and I still shy away from stairs so what do I know?

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    I've gone down stairs, but only the kind that are sort of long (as in three stairs, but the space between the stairs is long as opposed to the three stairs being one after the other. It is pretty scary as I have trouble getting over the back wheel (maybe my saddle is too wide?The reviews I read about the bike said the saddle that came with it was terrible, so I've been riding on this saddle).

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    I have trouble getting over the back wheel (maybe my saddle is too wide?)

    I think it's more likely your saddle is too high or your handlebar reach is too long.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago

    Saddle seems to be the right height according to the basic fit test I've seen (pedaling with heel should have almost full knee lockout. Could be my handlebar reach is too long, especially considering I had my handlebar sweep upside down until a kind person here pointed that out to me :D

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    No. Those issues will more likely be caused by smashing the wheels into a curb or stairs going up them and not using your weight over the bike to help the wheels up. A hard impact like that can cause a pinch flat if you are running tubes of possibly damage the rims too depending on the severity of the hit.

    Tyre pressures really do depend on what type of riding you will be doing and your terrain.

    50-55 is good for trying to stop pinch flats if you are running tubes and for running around on pavements and the like keeping your speed up by trying to have less deformation in the tyre to make your rolling resistance marginally less.

    Conversely if you are riding off road then you want less pressure as that helps the tyre deform more, increasing the amount of tyre that is in contact with the ground at once and there by increasing your grip levels.

    Damage like that is more dependant on the way you ride your bike and tackle obstacles as no amount of pressure is going to protect your rims in your just plough through objects. If I'm riding on tarmac with my MTB then I'll usually add a bit more pressure but only up to about 30psi (this is tubeless though bear in mind) and stair sets are not an issue.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    Got it! I put the rear tire to 55PSI and the front tire to 50PSI. Would making the suspension softer in the front further prevent possible damage?

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  • Not really. Going down stairs you shouldn't have much weight over the front and the suspension won't be doing that much work until you get to the bottom where it will compress as you hit the flat. If anything if you went too soft you could hit the bottom of the stair set and bottom out the forks which opens up another can of worms.

    If the suspension is working fine for you right now I'd leave it as it is.

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  • [–] -3 points 1 year ago (8 children)

    As long as you deweight the back wheel as you go down the stairs you’ll be fine.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago* (7 children)

    What does that even mean?

    When you go down stairs you want your weight backwards over the rear wheel which is gonna add more weight to the back wheel. To "deweight" the rear wheel you'd need to lean forward which is only going to end in pain going down a stair set.

    edit are you referring to going up curbs as opposed to downstairs? In which case this would be relevant?

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (2 children)

    I'm also struggling to understand 😅

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  • [–] -4 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    Correct. You want most of your weight over the front wheel because if you’re over the back wheel you bounce harder and you’ll get a lovely snake bite pinch flat for your troubles. You aren’t going to be completely over the front wheel just a little bit to get the back wheel lighter since you have no rear suspension.

    I ride enduro on a hardtail mtb. I used to get the dreaded snake bites until i learned how to ride stairsets.

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  • [–] 7 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    ERM what? "Most of your weight over the front wheel" I'm sorry but this is just blatently wrong and goes against the physics of what is happening. If most of your weight is over the front wheel you are going over the bars.

    Then you say you aren't going to be completely over the front wheel, just a little. But you just said most of your weight.

    What you are saying makes absolutely no sense and isn't even consistent across your message.

    This is bad advice that could get someone hurt man. Not cool.

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  • [–] -3 points 1 year ago

    I ride every day and down a set of stairs. If he wants more in depth info he can go watch a video.

    What i’m saying makes sense if you’ve ridden any features that require you to deweight your back wheel. Most of your weight will be over the front wheel but you yourself will be mostly center on the bike. This isn’t rocket science. If he wants to gap the stairs (doubtful since he said he learned to ride a month ago) then i’d say lean back in preperation for a bunny hop but since he isn’t then the easiest thing he can do to not fuck up his bike is to lean forward a tiny bit as he descends. He’ll try it a few times and figure out where his balance point is since it’s different for everyone. until he figures it out he’ll probably pop a few tires.

    Biking over features can get you hurt, if you only take advice from one internet stranger you’re asking for trouble anyways.

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  • [–] 15 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

    Don't worry about speed. Speed is a practically worthless metric, especially when you're starting out.

    Your focus should be on developing a sustainable cadence: the frequency of your pedal strokes, and the pressure you exert on the pedals. It's a balancing act. For a given output, the faster you pedal, the less pressure you need to put on the pedals. Speed up or slow down from your ideal cadence, and you just wear yourself out without improving your speed.

    I looked to maintain about 65-75 strokes per minute, and not pushing so hard that my thighs would start to burn. Some people prefer slower and harder; some prefer faster and lighter.

    The purpose of shifting is to maintain consistent stroke rate and pedal pressure. Speed is incidental: if your cadence is good, whatever speed you get will also be good. That might be 7mph; it might be 17mph. It might be barely above a walking speed while you climb a steep hill in low gear, or 40+mph downhill.

    Ignore your speed. Stick with your sustainable cadence. Downshift (and let the bike slow down) if the pedals are too hard. Upshift (and let the bike speed up) if they are too soft.

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  • [–] 10 points 1 year ago (7 children)

    I see two big things that others have touched on. One, you wll not believe how much of a difference a real road bike makes in your speed once you have a chance to try one, and the average speeds you're seeing are almost definitely on road bikes. I don't think you need to go out and get one now or anything, get comfortable with what you have first, but also know that if/when you try one your average speed will probably jump at least 5km/h.

    Second, cycling takes a lot of time to get used to. Anecdotally, when I first started I was a competitive distance runner and would occasionally win smaller races, and I started riding with a bunch of older relatively out of shape guys who had been cycling for decades. On about one sprint or hill a ride I could beat them, but they would kick my butt on the rest of the ride for more than a year before my conditioning caught up and I started to be able to keep up consistently.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago*

    I see two big things that others have touched on. One, you wll not believe how much of a difference a real road bike makes in your speed once you have a chance to try one, and the average speeds you're seeing are almost definitely on road bikes.

    I'd say it's less the bike and more the tires. My "city bike" is a rigid mountain bike from the '90s (edit: which is also extra-heavy because of basket/rack/panniers/fenders), but because I put smooth-ish (but still wide) tires on it, I cruise at maybe 15-20 mph on flat ground. Sure, the handlebars/riding position and (in OP's case) power losses from the front suspension make some difference, but not nearly as much as the tires until you get going really fast.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (5 children)

    Hills absolutely destroy me even in the lowest gear, I feel like spinning the pedals that fast just wrecks my cardio for some reason.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    This is my second season cycling. I live in an extremely hilly area and last season I got to where I could climb the steep hills without getting out and pushing about halfway through the season, but long and gradual hills absolutely murdered me. This season I started tackling some long gradual hills

    Honestly you have to play with the gearing to find what works well for you on hills. Higher gears spin harder but put down more power, lower gears spin easier but put down less power. Best is to be in the highest gear you can sustain. Personally I never touch the lower half of my gears because there's just too much leg spin and I tire myself for nothing.

    Eventually you'll get to where you can stand on the pedals while at a low cadence for extra power (useful on hills or with a trailer. When I have my kids behind me by butt basically never touches the saddle) but ultimately it's something that takes building muscle and practice to get comfortable

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago

    Hehe, I'm a big guy and weigh about 100kg, on flat ground I'm on the highest gear nearly all the time because my legs are strong rather than agile, but up a relatively steep hill I need to go on the lower gears and crank myself up there.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    Sounds like you were pretty out of shape. That won't change in just six weeks. You should start seeing progress, though. If not, see a doctor and get checked out

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  • [–] 10 points 1 year ago (12 children)

    Cities do lower average speed significantly, but 30k in 3 hours is indeed very slow.

    Hard to diagnose from afar, but I'd say take a look at shifting technique and pedaling cadence. It's actually not so easy at first to know when to shift and which gear is right (until it becomes second nature and you never think about it again.)

    Pedaling speed should be viewed as somewhat of a constant (try to aim for 60rpm at first, maybe?), and your job is to pick the gear that feels comfortable for that cadence in a given situation.

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  • [–] [S] 6 points 1 year ago (11 children)

    I'll try to focus more on my shifting! Thanks for the advice :)

    One question - for hills, for example, which derailleur has more of an effect? For example, on a big hill, am I better off being in 1st gear on the chainring and 3rd out of 8 gears on the cassette, or 2nd gear on the chainring and 1st gear on the cassette? Which do people usually use?

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  • [–] 7 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    In terms of pedaling, it doesn't matter. The same ratio between teeth in the front divided by teeth in the back will feel exactly the same. The only rule here is that you are aiming to keep the chain in a somewhat straight line. Supposing you have two chainrings in the front: Never go small-small or large-large, as that would put strain on the components. For a 2x11, for example, usually all gears are safe except for 1-11 or 2-1, if that makes sense.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    Yup, don't cross the streams...or chains as they say :)

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)
  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    Cadence is also a personal preference, lower cadence is more based on muscle power (50-70 rpm) higher (90 rpm+) put more load on your cardiovascular system. In time you'll drift towards what feels natural for you Going up hill try experimenting with the cadence. You'll quickly discover what cadence you feel is efficient for you

    In regards to your gearing question, it is hard to tell, it's about ratios between the number of teeth on the cassette and chainring. Find an rpm you like, adjust gear until you find that rpm

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I wouldn't think of it that way. Just try to avoid twisting the chain too much. If your chain is all the way to the left in the front, keep it on the left half in the back. If you feel like moving the rear to the right half, just shift the front gear to the middle instead. Beyond that, just do whatever feels right.

    I usually set the front to the ballpark I expect to be in for the foreseeable future, and fine tune in the rear as I go. It's usually harder to shift the front while pedaling hard uphill in my experience.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    I usually just ride the bike as if it was a 1x, never shifting off the second chainring, too much to think about using both, unless it would make climbing easier.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago

    That is a big hint to why you feel you're going slow. On flat or downhill ground I would usually be on the very hardest gear in order to be able to keep up with the wheels. If you're constantly in a medium gear you'll not reach very high speeds on easy terrain.

    But maybe you shouldn't worry about that right now. You're pretty new to this, so you don't need to optimize for speed. Just go at a pace comfortable for you, while you get used to this new way of moving. Perhaps it's even a good thing to be going slower right now, that way there's more time to react, and less injury if you have an accident.

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  • [–] 9 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    The more you ride, the faster you get, generally speaking.

    Mountain bikes are not primarily made for speed, for what it's worth. You'll find the fastest speed in road bikes (actually time trial bikes, but these are not made for general riding).

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago

    I like my XC simply because I got it new for cheap (around 220$USD) with great reviews from a local brand, and I feel more confident on it than I would on a rigid road bike that could break at any moment if I hit a pothole wrong

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    It's already been stated plenty, but less than 2 months and you are going 20 miles? Absolutely wild. You do you bro, you've certainly got yourself figured out better than we do. Mad respect.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    Thank you! I guess a slow 20 miles is better than a fast 5 miles being my max :)

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    Another thing to think about, inline with the last few comments, is that if you have 45 days worth of muscle memory you might just be doing too much too soon. 20 miles where I live in the southern US, this time of year can be taxing with the heat even if you are a career commuter. That said until your body gets used to restoring itself in between rides you're going to drag. And when you get worn down your body wants to just diesel in a lower gear.

    Its just my two cents, but I'd recommend shorter distances, pushing a little harder over those shorter distances but in intervals. In time I bet you'll find that you are getting there quicker with seemingly less effort.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago* (12 children)

    Another thing to review is your riding position and bike fit.

    You'll notice people on road bikes will have their bodies very horizontal which allows them to put more power in to the pedal strokes. At the other end of the spectrum you have a kind of Dutch riding position where the body is straight up. This will be inherently slower just because it's more relaxed.

    riding positions

    On an XC bike in the city you are probably somewhere in the middle of those positions, i would guess.

    Then it is good to make sure you have your saddle at the right height so you are able to use all your leverage. If it is too low then you'll be pushing more with your knees and you'll need to spend more effort to move the bike. You want your leg to be almost but not fully straight when you have the pedal at its lowest position.

    I agree with the other comment that if you're already doing those kinds of distances, if you keep riding then your "bike fitness" will come together quickly.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (11 children)

    My position is generally 45° or even more bent over - I was considering getting a fork extension so my sitting position would be more comfortable, is this recommended or should I just keep riding the way it is?

    I set my saddle height using the following method - when pedaling with your heels, your knee should be pretty much locked out. Is this a decent method for finding the correct saddle height?

    The frame size is correct for my height.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (10 children)

    OK great, that sounds pretty good for your saddle height then! Easiest way to change your riding position from there is with your stem and handlebars, I wouldn't mess with the fork itself.

    If you want to be more upright you can try a stem that's shorter and has some rise to it, to bring the bars higher and closer to you. There's all kinds of different handlebars that have rise to raise your riding position as well. Bike shop can advise on that if it's something you aren't comfortable doing yourself.

    But to be honest 45° is a fine angle, so unless you're finding it really uncomfortable or it's hurting your hands or wrists, I'd say your bike fit is probably OK!

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (9 children)

    The first few rides my wrists hurt, but that seems to have gone away.

    I'll just leave it the way it is then! More money saved :D

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (8 children)

    I have no idea what you mean by fork extension but I presume you mean raising the front end up a bit. In the picture you posted in another reply it looks like your handlebars are on upside down to me. You have a load of stem spaces increasing the height but then your handle bars appear to point downwards.

    I may be wrong because of the angle of the photo or maybe they were intended to be like that (no idea why but still) but I'd be interested in seeing a few pictures from a few other angles. If they are upsidedown then it is a fairly easy fix and may improve you riding position considerably without buying anything else.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (7 children)

    I meant a stem extension, didn't know how it was called :D

    In terms of the handlebars, should they be angled down on the ends, or up?

    Here's a picture

    I put the bike together myself after I ordered it, so it's certainly possible I put them on upside down 😅😂

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (6 children)

    No worries man, i know you are new and there is a shit ton of different terminology to deal with with bikes, a longer stem makes more sense to me now :D

    Generally speaking handle bars are made with different amounts of rise to lift the bars upwards as you can see here on my bike which has a lot more rise than you -

    It isn't unsafe or anything like that to mount them the other way up I just can't say I have seen it done before and obviously this will change your position on the bike and comfort levels more than you would think, even mm in difference in all things like handle bars, stems, seat position etc can make drastic differences to comfort, especially over long distances.

    Are the bars entirely straight across from left to right? Most bars usually also have different amounts of sweep which is the degrees that the bars go back and up as you can see here on mine -

    They aren't entirely straight and that sweep should be towards you rather than away.

    One post you said your hands / wrists ached for a bit. Whilst this is normal as you aren't used to riding a bike it can also be due to bar positioning as you could be adding extra force at points where you don't want it due to a combination of how your bars are positioned and how you use them, beyond this sometimes this can result in numbness in the hands too which obviously you don't want.

    "Bike fit" which incorporates everything from handle bars to stem length to seat position, tilt and height can all have a lot more drastic impacts on your body than you'd think even through small adjustments and is something you should tinker with to try and find the best position for you. You can pay to have one done professionally but it would probably cost more than your bike is worth to begin with so at this point I'd avoid that.

    I would be inclined to adjust your handlebars so that the rise is facing upwards, if you have any sweep have it so the ends of the bars are closer to you than the center rather than further away before you start buying new stems and things like that as they are all things you can do for free.

    If you change it and don't like it you can always switch it back to how you have it now, it looks weird to me but it isn't like it is dangerous and your comfort is more important than how it looks.

    I have spent the last year tweaking my current bike trying to get it in the perfect place so it definitely takes some time. Make small adjustments, go for a longer ride and then assess how you feel. I realise it will be harder for you not know bikes in general as well due to being new but you can still tell what is and isn't comfortable and if you are getting any pain in places like knees and wrists.

    Good luck with this new journey and enjoy it!

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (5 children)

    Thank you so much for all the advice! You were absolutely right about my bars being upside down -_- my sweep was facing downwards because for some reason, I thought that was correct. I adjusted them so that the sweep is sort of at a 45° angle facing me, so it's equal parts up and forward. I can't wait to try it out and see if this improves everything!

    In terms of bike fitting: I don't even know where I would find one or how much they cost here, but I feel like the bike fits me pretty well (or I'm too young, 28, to realize that it doesn't fit me and I'm just adapting in a bad way). I do have some back problems, but the bike isn't agitating them at all, so it might be okay.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago* (4 children)

    No worries dude! Don't beat yourself up over thinking that should be right because how could you know. If you have been cycling for less than two weeks the fact that you are willing to build the bike yourself and having a go at adjusting things as well as being willing to come here and expand your knowledge puts you way above most people I see who can't even do basic maintenance on their bikes and ride around with rusted out chains and the like.

    Some jobs on bikes can seem daunting at first but there is so much info out on the internet that if you possess common sense and just an ability to use tools correctly you can do most jobs yourself with a bit of research and trial and error. Generally speaking bikes are fairly simple machines and if you can maintain, adjust and fix the things yourself not only do you save a lot of money, you gain the satisfaction of knowing you did it along with actually knowing your bike well. If you have an issue out in the field you know how a part works and so can better diagnose and fix or at least bodge it together to get yourself home.

    Each upgrade you add or problem you fix will add to your overall knowledge of the bike and bikes in general!

    Like I said I probably wouldn't bother paying for a bike fit at your stage, I just thought I'd mention it. Local bike shops might offer a cheap version but I wouldn't trust that to be perfectly honest. There are plenty of YouTube videos out there that explain the adjustments and what effects they can have on different parts of your body, if you are having any discomfort in the future then I recommend watching a few, get some ideas of what to change then just get out riding and try out adjustments. Again it is free and you also get to learn your bike more.

    For example recently I was getting a bit of knee pain when I cycled 30km plus, so I researched what could be the likely causes and adjusted back and forth over time to get to a better place. In the end I lowered my seat probably around 5mm, moved the seat backwards about the same and adjusted the angle of the seat by a few degrees. All these tiny movements seem inconsequential but I now feel even better on the bike even though I wasn't uncomfortable before then and since I have done many long rides with no knee issues what so ever!

    Let us know how it is, I'd be interested how you feel with the difference seen as you don't have a lot of experience. Also feel free to ask any other questions you may have :D

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (3 children)

    I actually have a 30 year old bike that I've already done some stuff to, but I had to adjust the front and rear derailleurs when I put this bike together - it took me around an hour or so, but the rear cassette shifts now as opposed to getting stuck between two gears. I also adjusted my breaks (the pads would rub on the disks at a stop, but I managed to fix that)

    I desperately wanted a car to work on and fix up, but I guess a bike will work too! 😁

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (2 children)

    I've done a lot of work on cars too and I'd take a bike over a car any day of the week xD

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I think considering you started biking 1.5 months ago you are off to a great start! I think many people in your position would be unable to complete a 33KM trip, especially considering your practice is overwhelmingly city biking.

    I of course am unaware of your previous physical shape, but assuming your body has not been trained to bike it will take you a while to get into shape.

    My average is around 20-25km/h not including traffic stopping etc. It took me over three years to get here by biking to work daily, which is half uphill and half downhill (so I always have to bike uphill somewhat) and whenever I started feeling comfortable with my speed, pushing harder until uncomfortable again.

    Some tips I learned in this experience and some I got from others:

    1. Your muscles will get good and more efficient the more you use them. To avoid becoming complacent in your speed in the city for instance, consider every opportunity to push yourself.

    2. Never going to make that green light anyway? Not today, try to make it as if your life depends on it. If you don't and have to break hard (you won't at first) remember you did it to be able to do it in a year if bot today.

    3. Similarly racing plublic transport (where safe) can be fun as well as good training.

    4. Isn't it nice biking in the wind shadow of this e-bike? Fuck e-bikes(cheaters(JK)), try to always pass them (great interval training) (the slow ones anyway, in my city some are capped at 20kmh and go more like 15)

    5. Nutrition: I noticed after a year or so that certain breakfast items made it easier or harder to push myself biking

    6. I don't know if you are EU or NA, but if EU or similar consider biking places that are relatively nearby, but you usually drive. This way you get new experience and slightly longer trips than you are used too which always 'stretches' you a bit more, then you 'snap back into place' a bit better that where you started.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    Thanks for the advice! I'm in Europe :)

    What I'm afraid of is pushing myself so hard that I have to go home early :( I like biking long distances which makes me afraid to push myself too hard, which would (possibly?) severely cut my distance capabilities.

    Unfortunately, I have no car :(. Most ebikes on the road by me are ridden by couriers and they're just speeding along the road way going 2-3x the speed of me - they're quite popular here.

    A lot of the times I push myself to pick up speed so I can coast for a while after, though this is probably counterintuitive in a way.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago

    Depends if you ride for commute (as in you need to get from point A to B) or for recreation (bike for couple of hours)

    If it's recreation it's fine to cut down on distance and tire yourself out. Treat it like gym training. If you aren't tired, it wasn't good training. Maybe plan a shorter trip but a more intense one.

    I found that after couple of months of daily commuting my speeds improved and I could finally go up that steep hill without stopping.

    Good luck and stay safe!

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (14 children)

    Reading the thread and your responses, I thought it might be useful for you to try some other bike types, like a trekking bike and a racing bike. Because you are pretty new to biking in general, this might expand your context window efficiently and effectively. I love the feel of 'fast' bikes because your muscle power gets you so much, giving me a little bit of that same feeling when windsurfing or sailing. I also like the versatility and confidence a mountain bike gives you, but it's like it eats your speed when you're not using it for rougher terrain. Had the same experience when pushing my grandma through the forest in an offroad wheelchair, getting back on the tarmac was actually _ worse_

    1.5 months is also basically just starting out, no matter if you are fit or talented, it takes some km/hours to 'attune' or adapt or 'get the feel'. Same with saddle discomfort/monkey butt. Your butt and the saddle take a lot of time to get used to each other, and more time will increase comfort. Your speed will improve with just time, I'm sure. Can we have a pick of your bike?? Have fun pedaling!

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (13 children)

    The MTB gives me more confidence that I won't break something if I go down a curb too hard or somehow make a wrong move and go into a pothole.

    My butt does hurt a bit, mostly because my underwear rides up uncomfortably as I ride, I occasionally have to stop and fix it 😅

    Here's a pic of my bike :)

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    See if you can turn the knob at the top of the front shock to lock it out, so that you don't lose power from it compressing.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (3 children)

    It does have a lockout. Does the shock give no benefits on rough sidewalks/pavement?

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

    You can have better traction and comfort from using the shock or you can have better efficiency and speed from not having it absorb some of your pedaling force, but you can't have both at the same time.

    There's a reason the only bikes you'll find with suspension are MTBs, hybrids marketed to newbies who don't know any better (sorry), and high-end e-cargo bikes that have excess power budget to spend on jostling the cargo less.

    Also, keep in mind that your arms and legs (if you stand up on the pedals) act as shock absorbers, even if the bike itself is rigid. The tires and even the frame flex a little bit, too, and that's basically considered good enough on paved surfaces up to and including cobblestone streets.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    So the shocks don't really keep anything from breaking, they're purely for comfort.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago*

    Well, shocks can also keep the wheels touching the ground more often on bumpy terrain, for better traction. Think climbing a hill on rooty, rocky singletrack, without losing traction and therefore momentum.

    But yeah, no: In order to get to the point where you actually need suspension to stop the frame snapping in half or something like that, you've gotta be doing some real X-Games shit. And at that point you need full suspension anyway, not just a hardtail.

    (Either that, or your frame was defective and unsafe to begin with.)

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    That's just always going to be a slow bike in the road. A big shock in the front is heavy, and very parasitic to your pedaling stroke. It will also lack the lower "speed" gears. It's fine if it gives you more confidence but if you are going to commute seriously then I'd suggest getting a gravel bike, or at least a hybrid commuter at some point. Not now, but when you feel held back by that bike eventually.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    I actually don't commute at all, I just ride for fun, so going faster isn't really a necessity, it's just that I'd like to cover more distance in less time in order to save time on long rides.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    Well the good news is that if you ride this guy for a while, and then do decide it is overly limiting for you, getting on a road or gravel bike will be a big instant speed boost.

    Definitely get in good with a local bike shop now, and have them do maintenance on this bike. They might end up giving you a good deal on a trade if you do decide you want something else, but they will usually only do that for established customers.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (4 children)

    You can go fast in that bike but it's not really built for it. If you desire speed there are usually good deals on older street bikes. My 40 yr old miyata 910 weighs half of your MTB and that makes a big difference in acceleration and speed. I commuted with this bike for almost 20 years and got my average up to 50 kph. Would pass traffic between lights, it felt great being faster than cars.

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I'm sorry but the average speed across all stages in the Tour de France is around 41km/h there is no way that you could average 50kp/h unless your route was entirely downhill. Even then if it was a commute you'd have to return up that hill which would then normalise your average.

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  • [–] 0 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    The tour de France is very mountainous. 50 is 30 mph here and I averaged up sure. I'd bike with pros on the weekends and they would blow by me. But the space between lights were a sprint and I would overtake traffic each time.

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  • [–] 10 points 1 year ago

    Dude, I'm sure you were and hopefully still are a great and well trained cyclist, but it is very unlikely you averaged 50.

    Rohan Dennis, Tour de France record holder for fastest stage in the Grand Tour, managed to break the previous UCI one hour record in an inside hall, on a flat plane and achieved 52.491 km:

    https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2015/feb/09/rohan-dennis-sets-new-hour-record

    If your average was 50, meaning you sometimes surpassed that, you should probably get back on that bike and claim the record.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    I've been thinking about your post as I was biking to work this morning. I see others have talked to you about tires in the meantime but for on road riding I can really recommend pretty slick tires even on a mountain bike they will make a huge difference in resistance, especially if you inflate them as hard as they can take(look on the side of te tire for something that says inflate to xx psi). Hard smooth tires run nearly as good as racing tubes.

    Another thing I was thinking about is saddle height. Most new cyclists put their saddle way too low, which is understandable as you want to be able to put your foot on the ground when you lose balance. However that is not the best thing for transferring muscle power to your pedals. I found that for good force you want to have your saddle so high that when you sit on it and you put a foot on the pedal at it's lowest point, with your foot parallel to the ground, your leg is fully stretched.

    This does mean that to put a foot on the ground you have to keep your other foot on the pedal and slide forward off the saddle. The posture of your leg for pedalling will be way better getting more power to the bike and reducing stress on the knees.

    Make sure your foot rests on the pedal with the front part, like you can see bike racers do. That allows for more muscles to work on pushing than when the pedal is under the middle of the foot.

    Beware that raising the saddle does change the front-back balance a bit as your weight sits higher.

    I read you bike down stairs, if it is only one or two steps that is not going to change much but if it's a full flight of stairs that might be a problem.

    Frankly I'm 52 years old and have been riding bikes since I was 3 and I have not ridden off more than a couple of steps at a time for the last four decades, it's just not something I wish to inflict on my bike, nor on myself. Hopping down half a meter while at speed is no problem, but really riding of flights of stairs? You are a braver man than me.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (3 children)

    I agree on the saddle height. It's important to have it high enough so you can push efficiently.

    About the tires, I don't agree 100%. Higher pressure might give you slightly better rolling resistance but will give you way more vibrations and shocks which makes you tired in the long run. I can poste a page of a book explaining this better if you like. In general it's important to have smooth tires (usually high thread cound and good quality rubber) for a low rolling resistance.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (2 children)

    Hmm I hadn't thought about the shocks on hard tires bbeing so tiring though that does make sense. It does make a serious difference in resistance though, main downside for me of hard tires is less grip, both because of a smaller contact area with the ground and because an uneven roard makes you bounce more. I suppose it's a matter of adapting to circumstances. I do lower pressure for soft or smippery roads a tiny bit sometimes.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (7 children)

    Besides purpose built bikes for speed and distance, swapping out tires for a different tread can make a large difference. If you aren't doingactualy technical trails and just like road or flat gravel you can get a tire that has some nubs on the outer sides but a smooth patch down the center for way less resistance when riding. When I switch to my winter tires the bikes is so much slower

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (6 children)

    Could you possibly recommend what sort of tires these would be? I occasionally go down gravel trails but no jumps or logs or anything like that, just like dirt trails. Would those still be okay on these tires?

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    It really depends on the type of dirt, and how wet. Most of my summer the ground is hardpack or maintained crushed gravel. So I swap to a hybrid city tire, I don't need lots of tread. That's why I have the winter set with nubs and carbide studs for other weather. Is there a bike shop or two in the local area of the trails you ride? They can recommend a good tire.

    But don't worry about speed/time, just go have fun :)

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    If most of your riding is on paved surfaces, you want "city bike tires." For your bike, they'll be roughly 26x1.5"-2.0" and they'll be relatively smooth instead of knobby. Better ones will have features like extra puncture resistance and retroreflective sidewalls.

    Random example from an image search:

    The "some nubs on the outer sides but a smooth patch down the center" type of tire the commenter above recommended would look something like this...

    ...but honestly, I'd probably go for a full-blown city tire instead unless you're regularly riding on loose surfaces, not just "occasionally."

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago

    So we call them half-slicks here apparently. I decided to go with a pair of those. My performance night suffer a bit, but I prefer peace of mind to pure performance. As soon as I get paid, I plan on ordering a pair of them!

    Thank you for the advice!

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

    I run Michelin Country Rock as a hybrid tire. Anything that's not knobbly is going to be a huge upgrade on pavement.

    You also don't need to run the same tires on both wheels. Having a slicker tire in the back can make sense as you put more weight on it, and slipping with the back wheel is a nuisance, while slipping with the front is often a disaster. So you could start off just swapping the rear. That way if it doesn't work out, you also spent only half the money :)

    Lastly I'd want to share that I really disliked those wheels that are only knobbly along the edges. Leaning over when taking a curve at speed, and suddenly transitioning from smooth to vibrating was very unsettling to me.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    Besides the vibration issue, did you notice anything else like poor wet road performance, stuff like that?

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    I don't really bike much when it's wet, and never in mud, but the main downside of a slicker (but not slick) tire I've noticed is on steep gravel trails. I have a knobbly in front, so descending is ok, but ascending is definitely harder.

    Mind that tread isn't everything, tire size, air pressure, rubber hardness etc. all play a part. A wider softer tire might not struggle as much even without tread. (Speaking of which, I should try letting out some air next time.)

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