I got asked if I would be interested in taking over some duties with updating information on a small website from time to time, creating new pages for events, etc. as the last volunteer hasn't done anything since July. It's a word press site and it's somewhat of a mess. There were broken links all over the place either from someone moving files or just outdated. The design is also a hot mess. So I got login details from someone else's account to start with which is a huge red flag and I spent some time fixing broken links and recovering missing PDF files from Internet archive. I fixed some things with contact emails and dates being incorrect, etc. Then the next day I noticed that the original guy is in there making edits and new pages, which have broken links and look horrible like he never checked his work. I also realized that the account I have has no access to create new elements on a page I can only edit things like text, links, and images within existing elements. So now I'm in an awkward situation where it looks like the last guy caught wind of someone new helping out and decided to now get involved again. If I'm going to have my name on this thing I don't want it to look like shit the way it does now, but I already committed. I haven't talked to anybody about it yet, so hopefully it becomes a graceful handover or they take responsibility back so I don't have anything to do with it.

I'm printing some trays that are thin on the bottom maybe 2mm. Not enough for there to be infill. I'm having the same issue on two completely different printers with different filament and different files. I'm using the same Orca profile for both of them though so it has to be a setting, maybe bed temperature? The sides of the trays are perfect.

Shortly after I posted about my weird first layer issue the z axis motor failed completely. It is an oddball cheap motor and I could not find a direct replacement. The screw was also a very small diameter piece of all thread. I replaced the motor with a standard nema motor with a printed bracket. I did have to do some surgery with a Dremel and drill in order to get the new nut mounted to the carrier. I also had to change the steps per mm in firmware for the new screw. I haven't changed any of the slicer settings just different filament which is stringing pretty badly and I think the printer is going a bit fast. Other than that it's running pretty good.

This is a clone of an original MakerBot Replicator with dual extruders, yes it's made out of wood. I've had it for about 12 years and tinkered with it a lot. I started having problems with it and it got set aside for bigger and better printers. I got bored and decided to bring it out again. The biggest challenge has been setting up start gcode. It also can't run standard gcode and instead uses a different format. I'm running octoprint with the GPX plugin. I have never printed using both extruders so my goal is to do that.

I have an old Monoprice Select Mini Pro (v3) that has sat for years. I got it out today to see if it still works and it does. It printed fine the last time I used it but I've gotten bigger and better printers since then. However I lost the slicer profile I was using and decided to start from scratch with Orca. I just plugged in the dimensions and changed some start g code for the initial purge line as the default was going well off the bed. I also tried changing the retraction distance to 4.5 because this is a bowden tube which did not change this issue. The initial purge line and outer perimeter of the first layer stick really well but the middle infill is blobbing at one end and stringing through the middle and not sticking to the bed at all. I have been playing with the z height end stop (the level sensor is bad so I had printed an adjuster for the z end stop) to adjust the initial layer height and I'm pretty sure I went from too high to too low facing the same issue. I know it's not the filament because it's a new spool that I just printed on another printer with yesterday. I'm leaning towards it being a slicer setting of some kind having to do with the extrusion, I'm just not sure which setting it could be. Thanks for any help.

Edit: well the z axis motor just died because I lowered the z axis too far and it hit the bed and it was acting funny earlier so that's probably the issue.

I set up a public game night for a non profit organization. The event space has a bar on one side and Pizza and snacks are available. All ages are welcome as the bar side is segregated from where the gaming area is. We posted it in some FB local groups and I found some local subreddits and discord servers. I even made an Instagram account but it flagged my flyer as spam. It's a smallish town with about 14k people but near a much bigger college town by about 30 minutes. I'm at a loss as what to do since I'm going to give it a go this week too. We discussed having a vintage video game competition such as an old arcade game. Am I missing something or are game nights just not that popular?

I figured I'd share this simple guide since I couldn't find any information on this specific problem. I needed a static website. Hostinger has a limit on "inodes" so in order to keep the number of files to a minimum I wanted to avoid using WordPress and use up a bunch of resources. Instead I created the site using Hugo and uploaded it to Hostinger.

The other day my car started misfiring. I performed a cylinder drop test by disconnecting each ignition coil and determined the misfire was coming from cylinder 2. I then swapped coils to see if that was the issue and the misfire disappeared completely. I did go ahead and replace that ignition coil with a name brand coil ( not cheap generic from the jungle site!)

Upon further inspection I found that the insulation was missing on the wiring going into most of the coil connectors. This must be a common issue as a pack of 4 was only $10.

I spent about an hour replacing all 4 taking my time by doing one wire at a time. Then I took my time with cable management and rewrapping the harness and securing it properly to prevent any chafing or other damage.

A post mortem revealed no visible corrosion on any of the terminals but most of the connectors broke apart when I disassembled them as the plastic had become very brittle

Tools used:

• Seam ripper for cutting the wiring harness open
• Wire cutters
• Wire strippers
• Crimper
• Scissors
• Heat gun
• Metal license plate as a heat shield

Materials:

• 4 new connectors
• 12 red heat shrink butt connectors (possibly controversial)
• Cloth electrical tape
• Several zip ties to replace broken factory ties

Tried posting after not using reddit for almost 3 years since there's something that I wanted to tell a bigger audience about. Well I didn't have the minimum karma to post there so I begrudgingly find some posts to comment in. Everything is going smoothly but then I mentioned using Lutris to game on Linux and got downvoted to hell making it impossible to post in the sub then the mods deleted the post anyway. I tried posting in some other bigger subs and one wouldn't let me post at all because I mentioned a discord server (the thing I wanted to plug) and the other my post for removed. I was able to post in one niche sub related to the discord server and got 12 upvotes. Fuck reddit.

We have a coffee machine in the breakroom where we can have unlimited free coffee. They just increased the size of the disposable cups. They're wider and hold a few extra ounces.

I'm hoping to find the best bang for the buck components whether it's used or new. I'm located in the u.s. and will look for deals on eBay. I found a case on FB marketplace for $25 already and have a cheap power supply that claims it's 700w. I'm just not sure what GPU/CPU would be, I figure it should be a ddr4 system to keep costs down. I would be open to a pre built office pc and slapping a GPU into that as well. This would be for "lan" type game nights just to have something that can play pc games as an option.

Edit: I won an eBay auction for an MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus for $60.