Moved into new (to us, built in 1980) house 2 years ago. Installed an Airthings radon meter a year ago. Levels get up to 400 Bq/m3 when all the windows are closed. Finally had a radon mitigation system installed. Will hopefully get to much safer level below 100 Bq/m3.

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[–] 42 points 3 weeks ago (5 children)

I had one installed last year sometime.

I went from 300Bq/m3 to less than 10. The thing is great.

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  • [–] [S] 12 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

    Wow! Hopefully I see results that good.

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  • [–] 11 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

    New construction last year - tested shortly after moving in at ~2500 Bq/m³ ಠ_ಠ
    Wired in the fan and now it's typically reading between 4 and 20 Bq/m³ ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡° )

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  • [–] 30 points 2 weeks ago
    [–] 26 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    Radon is no joke. My best friend (who died, see my past post if you want) had an old house with air radon levels far beyond the healthy level. He had cancer multiple times, but of course no one can say if it's related.

    Still, I'd always recommend taking measures.

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  • [–] 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 child)

    did they have a basement, i wonder a person i know thier cousin had lung cancer was from it and passed away in late 2000s, they dint have basement though, but he was HOME all day, never truly launched so to speak but he worked jobs though. not a smoker, cant be cleaning chemicals.

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  • [–] 2 points 2 weeks ago

    Yes with basement as German houses mostly have. The values were worse there but still very bad at ground level.

    Regarding cancer, it returned twice afaik. Non smoker or drinker, cycling in nature.

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  • [–] 12 points 2 weeks ago (8 children)

    Curious what folks’ thoughts on fan placement are. U.S. code doesn’t allow them to be installed in a basement—they must be outside or in and attic so the the positive pressure side is outside of living spaces.

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  • [–] 10 points 2 weeks ago (5 children)

    Came here to say this. If there is a leak after the fan, radon will be pumped into the dwelling. Fan should be outside or in vented attic. Exhaust vent must be away windows or vent-intakes and above roofline. Minimum clearances vary with jurisdiction. But it's generally a bad idea to put the fan in-doors.

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  • [–] [S] 10 points 2 weeks ago* (4 children)

    This is always how it is done in Canada. Probably better for the fan if it’s not sitting in -40C.

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  • [–] 4 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    I figured. Pretty sure Canada allows direct venting as well rather than piping to the roof eave.

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago

    Fans must be placed outside because a leak after the fan can be bad. Now in all honesty, that only holds true if you have bends and twists and turns. I personally think you can place it in a basement or attic as long as you have a straight continuous pipe going up.

    As bonus you get passive suction when the pipe is warm.

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  • [–] 11 points 2 weeks ago (15 children)

    I see a few people have installed them in this thread. About how much does a system run cost wise?

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  • [–] 6 points 2 weeks ago (9 children)
  • [–] 2 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (8 children)

    Wtf? You can buy some PVC pipe and a fan for like $50

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  • [–] 17 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (2 children)

    You can, but it also usually requires drilling through the concrete slab in your basement, and through an outside wall to your house.

    On top of that, you need to seal any holes that might exist in the concrete. Like around your sump or water inlet or God forbid any cracks.

    Then also, you have to make sure that you know how much air the fan is pulling, and have a way to monitor the flow so you know if it stops.

    In short, parts are cheap. Labor and continued safety aren't.

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  • [–] 8 points 2 weeks ago (1 child)

    Why would I pay a professional when I could do it myself for twice the price because of the never ending patches/"upgrades"?

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago*

    Because not everyone is competent or willing to do the research needed.

    I work with ventilation and installations and my home got around 400 becquerel. I have no fucking clue what more I can do to solve it without spending a fortune. If we had a basement I would go wild but we don't.

    Function control I would route through my home assistant server.

    Edit: I think I completely missed your point when I wrote this. I need to learn to read.

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  • [–] 5 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    You can also make your own parachute from a tarp and some paracord.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 2 weeks ago

    It is a lot more complicated than that. Got the final report. They actually do flow testing to see how much air volume they need to achieve a specific vacuum differential, then select piping size and motor type to achieve the required results with the least amount of energy use.

    They used an RN2 motor with 4” piping for our house.

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  • [–] 5 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

    Mine was $3031 CAD to have it professionally installed and certified.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 child)

    Ya, ours was right around the $3k mark. And that’s with a 5 year guarantee to keep it below 100 Bq/m3.

    Edit: final price was $2699 +tax CAD.

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago

    These are the numbers I wanted.

    Our house has radon in the basement in the 300-400 range most of the time. I know I need something to clear it out, I've been concerned about how much it costs, so I've been stalling.

    Luckily, all the sleeping areas are far, far, away from the basement.

    I'll start putting the $3k together to have a system installed. Luckily I can split the costs with the other people who live here and also own the house with me....

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

    Depends on many factors. If there's an available sump pump, a radon lid is around $150. A fan is around $150. Between $100 and $300 for pvc, depending on number of elbows and distance. Assuming an open electrical breaker is available, and again depending on distance, $100 to $200 for electrical. $15 for a manometer. $20 for pvc cleaner and cement. $5 for tube of acrylic caulking. Total for parts, assume $500 to $850.

    Wothout a sump well, save $150 on lid, but x3 or x4 the pvc. Roughly $300 to $1000. Rental of a Hilti and diamond holesaw bit to add vents to corners of slab. So maybe $300 or so. Total around $600 to $1500, give or take.

    This is just parts. Labor will be $1k to $4k depending on location and complexity. If you can do it yourself, it's a significant savings. With an available sump well, it's an easy to medium difficulty project. Without one, it gets significantly more complicated.

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  • [–] 10 points 3 weeks ago (14 children)
  • [–] [S] 42 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (8 children)

    “Radon comes from the natural radioactive breakdown of uranium and thorium found in the earth's soil, rock, and groundwater. As these elements decay over time, they turn into radium and then release radon gas, which seeps up through the ground and can get trapped inside buildings.”

    So, a natural radioactive gas that seeps into the house through the foundation. The mitigation system puts a vacuum under the basement concrete slab and vents it outside.

    Very common in Canada. All new construction is required to have a port already installed in the slab to install a system.

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  • [–] 10 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

    is it something specifics of some areas because I never heard of this?

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago

    A little radon gets produced by basically all rock on Earth, but some types (like granite) emit more than others (like limestone). In the US, it's a bigger concern in the midwest and mountain areas than the south or parts of the west coast. You can look up EPA maps to show the areas of relative concern.

    Worldwide, though... I had trouble finding much detail.

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  • [–] 2 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    No, it happens pretty much everywhere.

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  • [–] 6 points 2 weeks ago

    No, it depends on the geology. Some granitic rocks, black shales, sedimentary rocks with high concentrations of uranium, and metamorphic rocks derived from the latter 3 will have high radon. Otherwise it's not a problem.

    Odds are your local or national government has published radon susceptibility maps with detailed info.

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  • [–] 2 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

    We can't get radon in NW Florida. The largest natural rocks are usually pea gravel in creek beds or creek beaches. Only exception I've found after hiking and kayaking all over this corner of the state are some iron ore "boulders" at a city park, which is why they built a water mill there.

    If you find a rock in the woods, it's concrete or asphalt. :)

    EDIT: If you go east a good bit there are limestone caves. Pretty neat, no radon.

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  • [–] 3 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    Here is the official map for Germany: https://www.bfs.de/DE/themen/ion/umwelt/radon/karten/boden.html (Map can be understood without knowing any German)

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 child)

    Looks like it’s a considerably bigger problem in Canada compared to Germany.

    https://evictradon.org/radon/radon-in-canada/

    Looks like Poland is actually the worst in the world.

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  • [–] 19 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

    It comes out of the ground. It's more prevalent in certain areas. It accumulates in basements and crawl spaces and can cause lung cancer from long term exposure.

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  • [–] 0 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    So people willingly go and live in places where deadly gas just seeps out of the ground?

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  • [–] 4 points 2 weeks ago (1 child)

    You don't live on a thin crust of a planet of molten stone?

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  • [–] 5 points 2 weeks ago (4 children)

    Anyone want to explain how these work? Radon's a nonissue where I live so I never gave it a second thought.

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  • [–] 5 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

    Put a pipe into the space under the foundation of the house. It's not a huge void, but whatever space is there will have a mix of normal air and gases like radon.

    Hook up a fan to the pipe. It pulls gas out of that space, pushing the radon out into the yard where it can dissipate into the neighborhood instead of reaching a higher concentration inside your house.

    Hmm, I wonder if new builds have radon-collection trenches dug before they pour the foundation. It would make sense vs. retrofitting a fan system, but it would add some cost for the extra digging and making sure you don't just fill the mini trenches with your concrete pour.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

    Yes, all new construction is required to have a service port installed in the slab so a system can be added easily in the future if required.

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  • [–] 1 point 2 weeks ago (1 child)

    Never seen that, but I'm in NW Florida and originally from Tulsa. No radon issues to speak of, especially down here where we don't have any rocks bigger than pea greavel.

    So how does that single port hoover up all the radon, or at least a significant part of it? Still a little lost on that bit. And how does it get through a concrete foundation in the first place? That ain't sidewalk concrete they pour, it's thick and fine.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 2 weeks ago*

    There is always a layer of crushed stone under the concrete slab, so the one port can pull air from underneath the entire slab. Air can always find a way through the concrete, the sump pump pit is a huge hole through the slab that also needs to be sealed.

    A large portion of Canada is basically built on solid granite with little dirt. Our own house needed blasting through rock to dig the foundation.

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  • [–] 4 points 3 weeks ago

    Happy health!

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  • [–] 4 points 3 weeks ago

    would have loved to have bought a town house awhile back but it had radon issues and the association was not dealing with it. Since it was a shared foundation mitigating it would be sorta drawing it in from next door and so on. maybe it could be sealed enough in the one unit but the shared nature of the building made it feel like it would be just that much more annoying.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 week ago