top 95 comments

sorted by: hot top controversial new old
[–] 86 points 2 months ago (31 children)

The fog is moisture condensing on the cold windshield surface. Use heat directed at the windshield with AC on. The AC dries out the moisture and the heater warms up the surface preventing additional condensation.

  • source
  • hideshow 31 child comments
  • [+] -19 points 2 months ago (30 children)

    If it's already cold, you don't need to turn the AC on. The air will be dry once it gets warmer.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 30 child comments
  • [–] 37 points 2 months ago (22 children)

    Defrost setting uses the AC unit. Helps pull moisture out of the air

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 22 child comments
  • [–] 8 points 2 months ago* (18 children)

    Air conditioners pull moisture out of the air by making it colder, reducing the amount of moisture the air can hold. Its not doing anything if the air is already colder than the air conditioner can go. The air conditioner will only help if it's 55F/13C or more, where it will only fog up if you live somewhere very humid.

    I know Google and the AI say otherwise. I am an HVAC engineer, and Google and the AI are wrong.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 18 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (1 child)

    Wouldn't it be more efficient to pass the cold dry air back over the hot side heat exchanger to increase its moisture caring capacity before blowing it at the glass?

    You know like a dehumidifier?

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 1 child comment
  • [–] 3 points 2 months ago* (13 children)

    The moist air freezes to the coils of the ac unit, which is than heated by heated air and drips out of the vehicle through a condensate drain.

    How do you not understand that basics of an air conditioner? It doesn’t just cool, it conditions the air.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 13 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago

    I’ve never found a more confidently incorrect bunch than HVAC people. I’ve never understood what it is about that profession specifically that causes people to just turn their brains off. See also: the absolute disdain for heat pumps and the absolute insistence on massively over sizing furnaces everywhere by HVAC technicians.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago* (11 children)

    That doesn't even make any sense. Is it cold air depositing frost onto the coil, or hot air melting the frost? It can't be both. You know that frost building up on coils is a huge problem that breaks air conditioners, right? Frost clogs the air stream, and creates a feedback loop where the coil gets way colder than it's designed to because air can't pass through.

    I could have been more specific: the air conditioner can be useful in rainy or foggy warm conditions where the air conditioner can still cool the air further, and a car air conditioner goes colder than a home air conditioner does, around 38-45F (3-7C). It can also help if something in the car is adding moisture to the air, like if the occupants are sweating. However, when it's just a cold day fogging the windows, the air conditioner does not help. It does not have a mechanism to dehumidify the air other than to cool it. Turn the temperature up to warm the interior surface of the windows.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 11 child comments
  • [–] -1 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (10 children)

    Uhhh… why do you think they have defrost cycles?

    If you turn off the ac for a short period of time, you run heat over the coils to remove all the accumulated frost, snd switch over again. This just used air instead of heating the coils with a reverse loop. It constantly cycles this loop to accumulate frost and remove it. It can be both, the coils are colder than the air, it accurate condensate, just like your glass. Why does your glass collect moisture if you claim this scenario is impossible….?

    You say others are just using Google and ai, but clearly you’re the one using those tools and have no experience. Or did you just start school and it’s your second day?

    Coil freeze over like you’re talking about is from an improperly sized unit, the defrost cycle can’t work properly.

    But all acs collect moisture and have condensate lines, even home ones

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 10 child comments
  • [–] -2 points 2 months ago (9 children)

    Car defrost cycles are explicitly for the windows, not the coils. You still haven't explained the magic mechanism by which an air conditioner dehumidifies air that's colder than the coils, just pointed to the existence of condensate like that makes your point somehow. I already covered that the air conditioner can dehumidify air cycling through the car if humidity is building up from something inside it.

    The coils are not designed to freeze. Ever. Having to manually defrost the coils by turning off the A/C (you have to do it manually because no system is designed to work this way, because that would be a stupid design) and run warm air through it means your system is malfunctioning.

    Take the last word, if you want. Arguing on the internet is pointless.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 9 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    Does the HVAC engineer seriously need the mechanism of condensation explained to them…?

    Coils frost, glass can frost, you’re ignoring reality for your textbook numbers.

    It can also freeze, because it’s -20c outside lmfao.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago

    i mean, the guy who ran one of the local hvac companies lived down the street for a couple years. steve had his head wedged so far up his pucker that i'm pretty sure he didn't even understand the repair manuals. inherited the company from his dad and had the attitude that goes with it.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago* (5 children)

    Using quotes from your textbook, please explain why it’s called deFROST. If what you’re saying is true, it would be decondensation or something along those lines.

    Take the last word, if you want. Arguing on the internet is pointless.

    Spoken like someone talking out of their ass and making shit up, if what you’re saying was true, we wouldn’t be “arguing”. You would be providing facts, you could also provide sources to back up your asinine claims as well….

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 5 child comments
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago

    So I don't know anything about the math or physics of the situation, but I do actually work on cars. A car has both and evaporator and heater core. Meaning it is capable of using the evaporator core to act as a dehumidifier before the fan from the blower motor pushes it through the heater core and up into the cabin. The heater core gets it's heat from the engine coolant. When the heat is activated a little internal door opens and runs the coolant through it. I'm assuming you'd understand the rest. But thats why it takes time for your hot air to blow. The engine hasn't heated up enough to transfer it to the coolant.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago

    They already explained that, because it's intended to defrost frosted windows, not because it defrosts frosted condenser coils. How would you even know when to use it if that was the case?

    Spoken like someone talking out of their ass and making shit up, if what you're saying was true, we wouldn't be "arguing"

    Spoken like someone arguing for the sake of arguing, aka, a troll. Have fun under your bridge!

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 0 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    The deFROST button that looks like this?

    It is quite obviously defrosting the windshield. Its other use is removing condensation from the windshield.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

    Air conditioners make it cold inside the unit at a condensation surface, collecting the water from the humid air there.

    But that's not how you defog a window, you heat the window until the air in contact with it can hold more water and so the water evaporates faster due to both water and air temperature. THEN this air can be pulled back into the AC to deposit it there with condensation.

    Window / mirror defog doesn't work like regular dehumidification that way. Especially not in cars / bathrooms where you might be having a too high stream of humid air coming in, then you focus on one surface (and since the windshield don't tend to have heating wires, it uses the AC hot air)

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (2 children)

    I want to be able to blow hot air at my ice cold windshield in the -20°C Canadian winters, but American car designers are all like "oh you want to use the windshield vent? you must want the AC turned on!"

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 5 points 2 months ago

    This is wrong based on the assumption that it works the same in all areas of the world, but I’m not sure if this is -10 votes wrong.

    Especially considering some of the other posts I’ve seen on here and how they get voted on

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (4 children)

    This can be correct in northern winters, with very high humidity this will only fog the windshield much worse.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 4 child comments
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (3 children)

    You cant have high humidity when its cold, doesnt depend on the location.

    100% humidity at 0°C is ~20% humidity at 25°, which is pretty dry.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 3 child comments
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (2 children)

    I guess cold is a relative term. I'm from Wisconsin- we can have 100% humidity at 65 degrees sooooo

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 28 points 2 months ago (17 children)

    When I press the defrost button in my car, it turns both the heat and AC on at the same time. I assume this is to remove water from the air with the AC, then warm up the air increasing its capacity to hold water with the heat.

  • source
  • hideshow 17 child comments
  • [–] 26 points 2 months ago (6 children)

    Your assumption is correct Also your car automatically calculates the condensation point and keeps the temperature and air moisture low enough not to cause any fogging on your windshield. Source: I've been programming AC unit controls for cars for the last 10 years

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 6 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    They only do this with the automatic controls not basic knobs right? Apparently affected what filter I had to get.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 3 points 2 months ago (1 child)

    Yes of course. The old school manual controls are usually mechanically connected directly to the flaps, so you cannot have any automated handling there

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 1 child comment
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago (8 children)

    in a lot of newer cars they can actually use the A/C to heat and cool the car, rather than using excess engine heat or an electric heater which is especially helpful when it's cold and you've only just started the engine!

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 8 child comments
  • [–] 6 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    Fun fact (well, I suspect you know this already, but some didn't, I had discussion with someone arguing with me that this is not true):

    AC and a heat pump are basically the same thing, AC is just pumping the heat outside instead of inside.

    Also when you say modern cars I am assuming you might be talking about EVs. Using a heat pump requires less energy than using resistive heating so it could be energy saving measure.

    ICE cars on the other hand can get the heat from engine "for free" (not really, but since the heat will be produced anyway whether you use it or not, so why not use it?) so a heat pump might make a bit less sense in them.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 5 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    I assume you mean EVs with heat pumps? I don't know of any ICE vehicles that do this, seems inefficient to waste mechanical or electrical energy when you have perfectly good waste heat to use upon reaching operating temperature (though you may need to use an aux heater before reaching that, particularly on diesels)

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 18 points 2 months ago* (1 child)

    It’s not about temperature, it’s about condensation and humidity. Turn on the AC regardless of temp (e.g. even if it’s cooler out and you’re blasting the heat) and the defog too.

    Source: I fucking live in Seattle and it fucking rains all the time

  • source
  • hideshow 1 child comment
  • [–] 30 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    If your windows gets foggy you need to turn up the heat as that lowers the relative humidity and direct the air towards the windshield, also check below the floor mats for water. If your car is a swimming pool your windows will be foggy forever.

  • source
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 17 points 2 months ago* (1 child)

    Counter intuitively, you want to turn the a/c on as that pulls the moisture out of the car.

    During winter when a vehicle is defrosting, it runs a combination of ac and heat to defrost windows and condition the air to limit moisture condensing on the interior.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 1 child comment
  • [–] 10 points 2 months ago (1 child)
  • [–] 9 points 2 months ago

    Trick question:

    Dew point is the exact temperature at which the current level of humidity forms. Heat is good because it makes the air at the surface stop condensing. AC is good because it dries the air out forming the condensate in your air box. Cracking the window is generally enough warmth to interrupt the process. Most new cars have a defrost mode that turns on both heat and ac to dry the air out.

    So the answer is do anything, except just turning the ac colder.

  • source
  • [–] 14 points 2 months ago (2 children)

    Always use heat. Anytime you have a fogged up window heat will cause that moisture to evaporate. Cold will always make the window cooler which causes more condensation.

  • source
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 7 points 2 months ago*

    Air conditioning will remove moisture from the air while cooling the cab, so the condensation can only form on the outside, where you have wind and windshield wipers to wipe off the condensation.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 11 points 2 months ago (19 children)

    People in comments assume the heat or air conditioning even work.

    Air conditioning also rapidly reduces humidity, so that tends to be the ideal option.

    But if neither heat nor air conditioner work, well tough it out and roll the windows down...

  • source
  • hideshow 19 child comments
  • [–] 3 points 2 months ago (18 children)

    If neither the heat or A/C work, you shouldn’t be driving that POS on the road.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 18 child comments
  • [–] 9 points 2 months ago (3 children)

    Just because the ac/heat don't work it's automatically a POS that's not road worthy?

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 3 child comments
  • [–] 0 points 2 months ago (11 children)

    Our heater does work, just no blower motor, so if we need heat, just open the vents and drive for airflow.

    Our air conditioner unfortunately does not work, but we have manual windows that roll down by hand for airflow.

    And today I just happened to install a fan on the dashboard.

    Yes it's a piece of shit truck, but ignoring the 'luxury' features that cost more than the truck itself to fix, it's pretty darn reliable.

    See my previous posts regarding Kermit the 96 Sonoma for reference. More reliable than new model Ford trucks that brick themselves because rainwater got into the taillight assembly...

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 11 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (1 child)

    Your blower motor probably does work, but the resistor assembly hooked up to the knob that controls its speed is most likely blown. This was the case with my truck when I got it and is rather common. Thirty four bucks will solve that problem for you, and it just plugs right in.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 1 child comment
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago

    The entire right side of the dashboard is missing, all the way down to the firewall, no thanks to the previous but now deceased meth tweaker owner.

    There's no fixing everything on this truck, short of dumping enough money into buying 4 more scrap trucks for spare parts...

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (8 children)

    That would not be street legal here. Must have a functional defroster if the vehicle has a windshield.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 8 child comments
  • [–] 3 points 2 months ago (6 children)

    “Here” is an important word! I assume you are Canada based. I live where we rarely or ever get freezing temperatures, and only decently started having warm/hot summers. Why would defrosting or ac be mandatory in such climate?

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 6 child comments
  • [–] 3 points 2 months ago (5 children)
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (4 children)
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (3 children)

    On the inside of the windshield from condensation?

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 3 child comments
  • [–] -1 points 2 months ago

    Well I take it we're not in your state or country. Mississippi here, we no longer have vehicle inspections. And this is respected even in other states that do require vehicle inspections. They're like yeah fuckit, half the windshield is cracked, but it's from Mississippi, so nothing Louisiana can do.

    Down here, we're half-professional rednecks that try our best to keep our own vehicles running. As long as it starts, runs, stops, shifts gears, steers, and has all the critical lights working, it's fine.

    Hood, trunk, windshield, front grill, rear bumper, doors, heat, air conditioning, etc luxuries are all optional here. As long as it runs, stops, and steers is basically what all Mississippi cares about, plus lights at night. And other states have to observe our very lax vehicle requirements too.

    I'm still working on some of the finer things, like it needs a horn, but generally speaking the truck runs pretty damn good to be 30 years old.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] 5 points 2 months ago

    Remember to pull your sun visors down. My AC doesn't stay charged so I have to rely on heat alone to defog windows. The visors trap the warm air.

  • source
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago

    Temp isn't as important as ac

  • source
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago

    Every time. And I'm halfway through life. I could do a web search, but who ever thinks of that except when this happens? Will I do a web search now? No. I have other stuff to think about. And so it goes.

  • source
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago

    Just the other day I was listening to this song by the Grateful Dead:

    "Sometimes the light's all shining on me ...

    Sometimes I can barely see ...

    And lately it appears to me

    What a long strange trip it's been. "

  • source
  • [–] 7 points 2 months ago

    crack a window

  • source
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (6 children)
  • [–] 4 points 2 months ago (5 children)

    The best situation is when you don't need a car to simply exist. That should be the norm, not the exception.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 5 child comments
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (3 children)

    I live in Asia and we don't need cars to exist (unless you're in Dubai)

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 3 child comments
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (2 children)

    Unfortunately it feels like in many places that isn't the case, and that more and more new developments follow the US urban planning paradigm of endless suburban hell

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • [–] 5 points 2 months ago

    Open the window.

  • source
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago

    Whichever of the AC/Heat is on, just switch it to the other one. Or turn it off. Or open the windows.

  • source
  • load more comments
    view more: next ›