"survivorship bias", uh den forstod jeg ikke? :)
Du er ude sent om natten, så du oplever kun alle de unge som har drukket sig bankelamme og ikke dem som drak mere moderat fordi de er gået hjem.
Can you trust it will deliver updates 5 years from now?
My gut says no, because the company probably doesn't exist in 5 years.
Det går ud på, at man skiftevis drikker en øl og en alkoholfri genstand for at mindske indtaget af alkohol. En øl, en sodavand, en øl, en vand osv.
De snakker om det som om det er et nyt koncept, men det her gjorde vi da også da jeg var ung så man ikke gik kold for tidligt. Jeg gør det stadig den dag i dag, dog mere fordi alderen har gjort det mindre interessant at deltage i dødsdruk og ikke for at undgå at gå kold for tidligt.
You're comparing apples to oranges here, because your internet connection is not something you have control over or can do anything about. Checking that your headphones are fully charged before running a marathon is absolutely something you can (and should) do something about, and you know in advance if your device has issues and should plan accordingly with a contingency. Anything less is you planning badly.
...but being surprised that Comcast is a highly unreliable ISP really is on you, that is almost common knowledge these days.
Eeey, it's Mr. Dong Lover
Yeah, it seems more like he's just doesn't understand how bullet proof glass works and thought it means "indestructible"
bullet proof glass shattering
Bullet proof glass is supposed to shatter? That's part of how it absorbs the energy from the bullets...
IDK, it really seems like a you problem when you can't use your own stuff.
Does it really matter? The point is it puts control of the printer in Bambu labs hands, should they decide to they can just stop your printer from working and brick it.
Why are you OK with someone else owning and controlling the things you bought?
You don't see the issue that you can't use your own printer to print what you want if your internet goes down? Wow...OK then, I will never understand that way of thinking.
AFAIK, you can't use the printer without an internet connection unless you put it in "developer mode", which is fucking insane.
Not checking and double checking, and/or knowingly choosing gear with issues (low battery life or inconsistent performance) are great examples of user error. These are nothing but examples of you making the wrong decisions leading up to something (presumably) important. It's the equivalent of complaining that wired earbuds are shit because you chose a pair with a bad wire/mini jack.
I have this annoying issue where solid infill on the bottom layers doesn't print properly. It also affects walls on those layers. It looks like under extrusion to me, but it doesn't make sense.
- It only affects solid infill bottom layers (I.e. layer 2 and 3 for my regular slicer settings)
- it does not happen on first layer.
- it's not a clog issue, rinsing and cold-pulling doesn't fix it. Brand new nozzle + hotend didn't fix it either
- it's not a flow capacity issue, it happens even with flow as low as 2mm3/s. I've used both Stefan's weighing method and orcaslicers built-in flow calibration and they agree it tops out around 25mm3/s and slicer is conservatively set to 20mm3/max
- it's not speed related, it happens regardless of speed, from 10mm/s to the regular 200mm/s
- internal solid infill line width is set to 105%, same as top layer.
Is there a slicer setting I messed up? Prints turn out ok, slight indent only on layer 2 and 3 because of this. But this just bugs the hell out of me because it shouldn't be happening.
Edit: it's a Qidi xmax-3 printer
Edit 2: root caused identified! Apparently the cooling is too aggressive when going from OFF -> FULL, causing the extruder to struggle leading to temporary under extrusion. So far I've fixed it by ramping up cooling over 3 layers instead of going to full blast instantaneously after layer 1. Weird thing is, it doesn't show a temperature drop in the hotend, so I guess it's the tip of the nozzle chilling too much.
First time trying to paint a thoroughly weathered/rusty piece, and also first time trying to paint 3D printed terrain.
Printed with a 0.2mm layer height, it was surprisingly annoying to paint compared to regular cast HIPS pieces. Washes are completely useless, or at least behave very differently, due to capillary effect of the layer lines.
I think I went a little too heavy with the rust orange color so it lost some definition. It looks a little more defined IRL than the photo shows.
This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I've ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.
Sure it prints well at 300mm/s, but it is by no means matte at the temperatures that allow printing it at high speeds, it is actually very glossy. A huge bummer.
smooth first layer...so nice
I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.
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