Neat breakdown with data + some code.

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[–] 32 points 1 year ago* (23 children)

Basically why the grid exists to begin with. You're not supposed to be solving these engineering problems on a household budget inside a single home.

You'd be better off simply reducing your consumption or finding alternative methods of power (nat gas or maybe wind or geothermal) during the longer winter nights.

If you really want to go crazy, you should consider investing in a bigger home with better insulation and roommates. An apartment/condo block can at least leverage economies of scale, if you're dead set on DIY. More people benefiting from the setup dilutes the cost per person.

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  • [–] 16 points 1 year ago (14 children)

    I recently got a solar system and came to the conclusion that if you can sell power back to the grid (not everyone can) for some reasonable percentage of what it costs to buy it, then it will always be worth it to be connected (assuming you already are).

    Quite simply, if you have enough solar capacity to get you through the winter (no house is going to have months of battery storage), then you will always be creating far more than you need in the summer. Selling this excess will easily cover any costs associated to being on the grid.

    Also at current prices batteries are good for backup power only, it's always cheaper to sell excess power to the grid in the day and buy it back at night than it is to have battery capacity to get through the night. I worked out it would take 40 years for our battery to pay for itself (assuming the battery kept a constant battery capacity for 40 years...) but less than 10 years for the rest of the system to pay for itself.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 1 year ago (7 children)

    I'm paying 50c per kWh for grid...its bad. And that's if I don't go over the limit. There's 4 teirs so it gets more expensive per tier.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (6 children)

    Wait, it gets more expensive when you use more?

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 1 year ago (5 children)
  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (4 children)

    What an odd pricing structure! I would normally expect higher usage to mean lower prices per unit.

    I guess that gives you a large incentive to have at least a little solar, as there would be a big financial benefit.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    Its pretty bad. They only show a couple of the tiers here. https://www.pge.com/assets/pge/docs/account/rate-plans/residential-electric-rate-plan-pricing.pdf

    This is an old pdf but the only one they have on the website. They haven't updated it in a while so its not counting the latest 2 rate increases.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago* (2 children)

    Interesting! Your power seems super expensive.

    We pay a daily lines maintenance charge of 60c, then 29c/kWh during the day and a little under 27c for off peak night time. Then add 15% tax to these. These are in NZD, so almost halve them to get USD (e.g. 60cNZD is 35cUSD)

    We also get about 17.5c for each kWh sold to the grid. So to sell it in the day and buy back at night is a 10c additional cost. A 10kWh battery can save a max of $1 per night, meaning it's really hard to make your money back on a battery that's $10-15k NZD on it's own.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    4 years ago it was 18c per kwh. Which was nice.

    Yours is very good. and selling back to the grid would be nice! Making me jealous lol.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    I'm feeling very lucky now!

    We have a national grid that is shared by all power companies, and is open to all. Power companies just buy and sell power on the grid based on a spot pricing system. Because of this, we have very easy movement between power companies, and have dozens to choose from, leading to a lot of competition. Mine is a tiny company that specialises in solar, having sell to grid rates well above most companies.

    The company that did our solar install had their top recommended companies, they worked out the best for us, and organised getting set up with them. Was I pretty nice experience to have everything taken care of like that!

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (5 children)

    We can't, but we can do net metering, meaning we can offset costs but not get paid. So the best investment is to pay nothing through Dec. 31 and keep costs manageable at the start of the year (net metering ends with the calendar year).

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago*

    Net metering is potentially better, as you are effectively getting free night usage based ob day generation. My setup pays me, but I get paid 20c per Kw (NZ dollar) and pay about 30c to buy, so there's a 10c difference. Just as long as whatever you lose on 31st Dec is not too high, you'd be better off than me.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (3 children)

    Net metering is great, much better than being paid for the surplus.

    With net metering the grid is basically an free, infinite, 100% effective battery.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    Only while there's a surplus. Our net metering arrangement effectively forfeits any surplus at the end of the year. It obviously can vary by region and how much you'd get from surplus vs specifics of the net metering policy, but I think getting paid for surplus is simpler and easier to plan around.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    I disagree, but in not in your situation so I can be wrong.

    Unless you are producing way, way more electricity than you can use I think net metering is a great arrangement for the customer. (Not so much for the utility company)

    The electricity is usually bought by the utility company at a much lower cost than what the customer is paying. Because the generation cost is only a percentage of the cost, there is taxes, maintenance of the grid ...

    For example in France we pay 0.1952€/kWh, but the utility is buying the solar electricity produced by household at 0.04€/kWh.

    Meanwhile with net metering your electricity is virtually bought at the same price as what you are buying your electricity for.

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  • [–] 6 points 1 year ago (7 children)

    Basically why the grid exists to begin with

    Agreed this is the best option. Economy of scales and our consumers wishes should dictate the Grids plan to incorporate cheap energy ( and emergency) storages.

    And, also like you said, change your energy life style and insulate your house wherever you can.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (6 children)

    I'm very ignorant on this subject, but couldn't you just sell excess to grid and get it back for a minimal markup? Seems like a good governmemt incentive to even supplement an even exchange program. Scaling things to everyone having their own giant batteries seems like a waste of the existing infrastructure.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (4 children)

    I'm very ignorant on this subject, but couldn't you just sell excess to grid and get it back for a minimal markup?

    Sure, but it depends on the incentives in your country. Afaik, excess energy could be sold, but you'll have to checkout your local incentives and energy suppliers for specifics. In most parts of Europe, the are scaling down the prices for excess energy. Therefore, battery systems are being forwarded in some cases as sort of solution for solar panels maintaining like ca. 80% +? integrity efficiency over 20 to 30 years.

    For example, I read that in The Netherlands the solar panel market has crashed completely or is crashing. Note here that saturation of the market ( many existing solar panels) can also cause that.

    You need to find out;

    1. energy usage
    2. insulation options and materials
    3. costs /benefits
    4. energy contracts and energy incentives.
    5. check out current physical electricity wiring and fuses in the house
    6. DIY or professional?
    7. budget etc

    TLDR: dont buy solarpanels if you want to be rich. And buy them according and after you've done everything possible to insulate your house, whether in the colder or warmer climates. The efficiency, added value, and comfort reached by insulation outweighs everything else. Then , after doing that, check your kwh usage, and buy solars according to that.

    Hope this is helpful, but seems you need to go outthere and do some exploration on the topic.

    (Ed: layout)

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    And buy them according and after you’ve done everything possible to insulate your house, whether in the colder or warmer climates.

    In the USA there are silly rules that you can only get 120% capacity of your last years worth grid consumption as solar installed. So if one were to follow your advice and do all the energy efficient improvement prior to solar, then you would be restricted to getting a much smaller array. I understand why they have the rule, but its easy to circumvent by just having artificially oversized consumption for a year in your house, and you can then get the larger array you want before then doing all the energy improvements post-array installation.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    In the USA there are silly rules that you can only get 120% capacity of your last years worth grid consumption as solar installed.

    Yes , I can see how that impacts the process. indeed checking the rules and doing some prior info digging is essential.

    It's also important to check whether solar overcacity is worthwhile in the UsA. Her3 it is not( anymore).

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    It’s also important to check whether solar overcacity is worthwhile in the UsA. Her3 it is not( anymore).

    I'll say generally speaking in most places it isn't, however, once you go solar, you may increase your electricity usage as you move away from carbon based energy. Before solar we had natural gas furnace heating and two gasoline cars. Now we have two EVs and a cold climate heat pump with zero natural gas and zero gasoline consumption. So I wanted the larger solar capacity to cover the increases in electricity we knew we'd have.

    Its worked out pretty well. We have fairly large electricity bills ($400ish) in Jan and Feb, a small bill in March, and usually a tiny bill (under $10) in April. Then no bills for the rest of the year. Also keep in mind that is TOTAL energy costs, no gas or gasoline bought anymore.

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  • [–] 71 points 1 year ago* (45 children)

    they generate about 3,800kWh per year. We also use about 3,800kWh of electricity each year

    Obviously, we can't use all the power produced over summer and we need to buy power in winter. So here's my question: How big a battery would we need in order to be completely self-sufficient?

    O, god, it's going to be huge. You really can't do the off-grid thing unless you have enough power production to satiate you over any given 3-day moving window. Trying to store power from summer until winter is going to be too expensive, instead buy more panel.

    This isn't even going into the fact batteries lose charge slowly. So any power generated in summer will be much diminished by winter, even if you have big enough batteries.

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  • [–] 25 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (9 children)

    Seems to me his panel capacity is to small anyway.
    We have 11 kWh panels, and yes in the summer we routinely produce 4 times more than we use, and we have a 7.5 kWh battery But November December and January it's not even close to enough.

    In the Winter you can easily have a week with near zero production:
    Our Import / export from grid last year:
    November 215 / 59 kWh
    December 300 15 kWh
    January 268 / 34 kWh

    Despite we have almost 3 times the capacity, and produce more than twice what we use per year, and we have a decent battery and believe it or not, even the shortest day we can produce enough power for a whole 24 hour day if it's a clear day! But we can also have clouds for 14 days!
    But for those months we imported 783 kWh and exported 108 that could have been used with bigger battery. But the net import was still 675 kWh!! For those 3 months, and that's the minimum size battery we could have managed with, and then we even need 10% extra to compensate for charge/discharge losses.

    TLDR:
    Minimum 740 kWh battery in our case, and that's without heating, because we use wood pellets.

    That means it would require at least the equivalent of 10 high end fully electric car batteries. But also a very hefty inverter, which AFAIK ads about 50% the price of the battery.

    PS: Already in February we exported more than we imported.

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago* (6 children)

    Damn, those winter numbers mean full off-grid is quite difficult with pure solar. A propane or diesel generator to occasionally top off the batteries would be required for winter.

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  • [–] 11 points 1 year ago

    It is not remotely close to economically viable to go off grid, and the exports of solar power to the grid pay for the connection anyway.
    The reason to have a battery is that it lasts through the night, or even with a smaller system, it can handle dinner time, which is the most expensive time of day to buy electricity.
    Now if you live in some remote area without a grid, a generator is a way better option than a huge battery.
    Maybe if you live somewhere very sunny, like Spain and especially southern parts of USA you can probably do it with a modest battery that can handle a couple of days.
    In the summer we can make enough electricity on by far the most cloudy days, but in the winter, the sun can't penetrate the clouds nearly as well.
    Admittedly London is south of where I live, which is close to the most southern part of Denmark, but on the other hand London is infamous for grey weather with heavy clouds.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    You could probably get by with a gas generator and only run it 2-3 times/year in many areas. It's not 100% green, but it could get you off grid for a fraction of the price.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    Diesel generatorsare significantly better on fuel consumption than a gas one and diesel takes alot longer to go bad than gasoline.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago

    Power the generator with vegetable oil. There are multi fuel generators that are designed to work well with that kind of fuel. You could also use them for heating which is very useful in Northern regions where you usually need heating and electricity during winter.

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  • [–] 12 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    (Author here) As I say in my post, our roof is full. We have 16x 320 Watt panels - 8 on each side of the roof.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

    OK I didn't see that, that's bigger than I expected, we make about 12.5 MWh per year on our 11.2 kWh panels = 1.1 MWh per kWh capacity.
    Your system is 5.1 kWh but you only make 3.8 MWh per year = 0.75 MWh per kWh capacity.
    Meaning we have 50% higher yield per kWh rated capacity!

    So our production remains 3.3 times higher than yours, despite we only have twice the capacity.
    But our panels are pretty optimally placed towards the south.

    Considering you are further south compared to us, I'm surprised your yield is so low, despite London is infamous for being cloudy.

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  • [–] 7 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    I’m a fan of small scale wind, if there’s climate and space for it. 20hrs a day of a (small) 500w adds up really quickly compared to more panels, especially in grey winter weather. The problem is that there’s a bigger difference between megawatt scale solar vs homeowner scale, and megawatt scale wind vs homeowner scale, so there’s limited investment.

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  • [–] 11 points 1 year ago

    Wind isn’t great small scale. You rarely can get high enough for constant wind energy. They are noisy. They don’t produce a lot. In many or even most cases solar will be better than wind.

    I’d go so far as building both sun oriented and a solar “fence” line going north/south to get more non-peak solar before putting up small-scale wind.

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  • [–] 7 points 1 year ago (21 children)

    they generate about 3,800kWh per year. We also use about 3,800kWh of electricity each year.

    Holy shit. I think we used that much last month, which is higher than average but not that high for August around here.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (15 children)

    glad I'm not the only one that noticed that.

    last time I checked I was using around 4600-5800kwh from May to August. the rest of the year its 3300-4200.

    I live in a dual zoned 5200sqft home and my average power bill is around $900.

    I've had solar sales try to talk me into solar panels but once they see my consumption they stop answering my calls lol. could be because I told them I'll buy once I can get net zero.

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  • [–] 6 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    could be because I told them I’ll buy once I can get net zero.

    I'm not following your logic. You aren't willing to accept any savings unless you can completely zero out your power bill? Judging from your consumption I'm assuming a good chunk of that is for cooling your home? If so that means you're likely in a pretty great place to harvest solar power. You'd reach payback of your investment on your array much faster than most, and be saving money for probably 35 years or more with little to no additional investment.

    Making some guesses for how much your electricity rates are, and how much you're consuming (assuming much from cooling), you might be a full payback in less than 7 years if you took advantage of the tax credit. Then, every month after that you'd be gaining money back.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    my house is over 120 years old. it still has knob and tube in half the house. I have even found gas lines for the old sconces, that were "conveniently" used as grounds for said knob and tube in some places. the house is a nightmare, electrically speaking. the only new-ish electrical are the HVAC systems, the 200amp panel, and the basement (where the rack lives).

    for me to get proper solar installed, it would cost more than the house cost to buy. For me to find it in any way cost effective, I would need my $900 a month power bill to pay for the $200k loan on top of my mortgage.

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  • [–] 0 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    As someone who electrically renovated houses without beeing an electrician. If you find an electrician who is willing to work with you: do a full planning of the house. (What lines go where etc) ask them to go over this, and pay them for their time. If all goes well this will cost them an evening or three (depending how many flaws they find in your design). Do the wiring and drilling raw sockets yourself. Buy the top sockets wholesale, then have the electrician make a fixed price for installing sockets and wiring your fuse box , it will be much cheaper.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    appreciate the sound advice. I've rewired plenty of houses that I'm comfortable with DIMS and know most of the NEC.

    the problem is time and effort. I'm getting older and just don't have the drive I used to have 20 years ago. the biggest problem is the house is still mostly original plaster lathe which is a huge pita for running new electrical across four floors. add to that the other litany of projects I have to do plus daily life/work. it's a lot.

    if I was 10 years younger I'd probably start one room at a time, but I'm old enough now that I look forward to taking my daily naps before bedtime.

    I reserved myself to a modest retirement when I bought this house because I knew the risks going in.

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  • [+] 3 points 1 year ago (6 children)
  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (5 children)

    that's an average btw. last months bill was $1100.

    this month is already at $960 and we're only halfway through the month.

    this year has been lower than previous. I had new insulation installed last November.

    highest bill I have ever seen was around $2200 which is over my monthly mortgage.

    no crypto farm. though it would probably be higher if I was.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    I have personally never seen a bill of more than 60€ per month. I have some friends living in bigger houses, not apartments, and they tell they can get over 100 fairly frequently, the bigger ones more in the North can get over 200 in the winters, but even still, I’ve never even heard of anything reaching 300.

    But I’m in my thirties and don’t really know anyone from beyond upper middle class. That might help explain my experience if it happens to be the outlier, but just reading the responses to this, I might not be the outlier here.

    Anything four figures is just crazy surreal to me. I can not even imagine what it takes to reach that kind of electric usage. Or maybe it’s just extremely expensive, not the usage itself being crazy? I would think living in a place where sustaining one’s existence requires that kind of resource usage would be very hostile against settling and building in general?

    But if it’s just personal usage rather than the regional climate or whatever, and an insane price of electricity isn’t the main reason, then I don’t even know what to say. That’s crazy.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    it's kind of a mix of everything.

    I grew up poor. like, "take a nap for dinner" poor. I was afforded great opportunities that allowed me to become comfortably wealthy, as in I can freely go to the store and just buy groceries without concern. This is important because I always promised myself that when I grew up I would live comfortably.

    I keep my house between 68F-72F year round. I don't open my windows because I have terrible allergies (that my kids have also inherited). at least half of my bill is just heating and cooling. the other half is likely a mix of the servers and the regular appliances.

    I have family ranging from 30-60 years old. when I told them how much I spend on power their eyes popped out. they don't run their hvacs as much as I do, and actually use their windows and attic fans. they also don't have the allergic reactions I have either so 🤷.

    in my old home, 1600sqft, our highest bill was around $300, and that was still high for the area. our neighbors were average between $100-$150. they were in their 70s though, so likely they didn't use their hvac as much either, nor the technology I was running.

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  • [–] 6 points 1 year ago (9 children)

    As is mentioned in the article 😉 What is also mentioned is the fact that battery prices are going down. Soon it seems they’ll be down to $10/kWh!

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago

    There's also alot of new battery tech on the way.

    There will be a market for batteries at home, and they will exist with the best suitable tech for it - and it's probably not lithium.

    How many years, I dont know. What will it be, and who will do it, no clue. Otherwise my stock portfolio would look better if I knew these things haha.

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  • [–] 6 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I wish the second-hand battery market were more lively. Using half-worn car battery packs seems optimal for home use.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

    It is. Some of them are getting snapped up to help with powering factories.

    I think this is car companies using the incoming battery packs from replacing worn out packs. Time to look it up...

    https://www.autoblog.com/news/toyota-just-found-a-clever-new-use-for-old-ev-batteries

    This is the article I was thinking of. It's more of an idea than a common use case to use old packs to help power factories.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago*

    Using half-worn car battery packs seems optimal for home use.

    I'm not putting cobalt based (NMC or NCA) batteries bolted to the inside my house. Thats nearly exclusively what car battery packs are. Thermal runaway is too great a risk to bolt that much energy to a wall in the house. I am comfortable with LFP in the house though.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago (4 children)

    Sodium batteries?

    BTW that's the wish for trend line, $10/kWh right?

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)
  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I have seen some wild priced on Ali, in your link the 75Ah and the 210Ah are priced the same, so I guess it's for the smaller one, 30€ for ~0.225kWh or 133€/kWh.

    Could be wrong ofc, but it sort of fits what I thought it would roughly be.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    I mean even ~133/kWh..

    Whats an average, perhaps even gratuitous, level of consumption per household? 24kwh if you are running a clothes drier and an AC nonstop? Lets go nuts, say you are a DIY enthusiast and hosting your own servers, so 36kwh daily.

    3192€-4788€ to be and you can be effectively energy independent with a small solar system.

    Triple that and you are truly energy independent are any where south of the English channel. I mean obviously its money out of pocket, but its a fixed cost that you pay now, instead of a variable cost that continuously goes up. It just seems basic.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

    How big a battery would we need in order to be completely self-sufficient?

    Exactly. Haven't read all details of the link,so I react your comment, and have immersed myself a bit in this earlier.

    You need to change your way of thinking and energy usage. Start with your daily energy supply and then change your energy consumption pattern to day time use Then, with for example a dynamic energy contract or if you can spare solar energy, buy or store cheap electricity in your storage ( battery ). The energy management system ( charge / uncharge and which cells) is very important.

    Also, realize that battery life is tied to charge cycles and need replacing like every 10 years when talking about the better quality Lithium battery . Sodium systems could and maybe should be used in parallel, if you want more storage, safety and longevity (20 years).

    It is yet all quite expensive, though imo having a half day reserve like 5 - 10 kwh, battery, would already create more independence (at around € 3K to € 10 K in Europe) .

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  • [–] 15 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (15 children)

    What I want to do is find out what the maximum size battery I would need in order to store all of summer's electricity for use in winter.

    I mean, I think that it's probably not a good idea for this guy to try to go fully off-grid if he has access to the grid, but for the sake of discussion, if one were honestly wanting to try it and one is in the UK, I'd think that one is probably rather better off adding a wind turbine, since some of the time that the sun isn't shining, the wind is blowing.

    https://www.statista.com/statistics/322789/quarterly-wind-speed-average-in-the-united-kingdom-uk/

    Wind speed averages in the United Kingdom are generally highest in the first and fourth quarters of each calendar year – the winter months.

    The UK is one of the worst places in the world in terms of solar potential:

    https://globalsolaratlas.info

    But it's one of the best in terms of wind potential:

    https://globalwindatlas.info

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  • [–] 10 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    I could probably get away with putting solar panels on my roof but I think my neighbours would have something to say about a wind turbine. They're pretty loud.

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago (10 children)

    Small wind turbines are really, really poor. You need to go high to access the good air-streams and wide to get useful efficiency out of the turbine. Any wind turbine you put on your roof will vastly under-perform for the cost spent on it.

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  • [–] 12 points 1 year ago (7 children)

    I'd be pretty comfortable saying that buying enough battery storage to power-shift a year of power is more expensive.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago* (6 children)

    O, absolutely. The reality is the only reasonably economic way to do off-grid is with solar, battery, and a diesel or propane generator to top off the batteries when solar isn't cutting it.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago (5 children)

    There is another option. Reduce your energy usage so much that you barely need anything. Cabin in the woods with wifi?

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    That's not really a viable option, you need to be able to wash your clothes, and make your dinner, and cool your food, and have light to see.
    Sure it's possible to reduce it, but there is a limit where it becomes extremely inconvenient.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago

    LEDs use very little power, with the cabin in the woods idea I would think its fairly safe to say a log fire is used for cooking, same thing to heat some water for cleaning. Fridge really doesn't use much power if you look for something energy efficient, or just don't have one. Its not like you can't live without it.

    I would have thought saying cabin in the woods kinda implies not having some things and living a simpler lifestyle?

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (2 children)
  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    Sure, why not. But I was thinking a 4/5G router takes very little power, then a steam deck doesn't take that much either. If that is all you need, few hundred w solar panels and a decent sized camping battery will probably do just fine. You don't need to store a years worth of energy in one go if you can produce more than you use which helps during lower output times.

    Then if your employer is mandating return to office, charge the battery there. Make the fuckers pay for it.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    Not true, a wind turbine is dirt cheap for the power it can generate compared to solar panels.
    Here the problem is regulation that makes it impossible if you have neighbors within 500 m.
    If it wasn't for regulation a wind turbine would be a clearly better investment than solar panels.
    A huge advantage with turbines is also that it tend to generate power when you need it the most for heating your house.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 year ago

    That's because they are big mechanical whirring machines. Solar panels are dead quiet and don't throw intermittent shade and have a very low risk of causing damage in the surrounding. There's good reasons they are forbidden for the average household to put on top of the chimney...

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  • [–] 9 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    To be fully self sufficient you have to meet your energy consumption during the most cloudy days in winter.

    2 days storage gives you a 5% chance of a blackout at some point during the year.

    4 days storage gives you a 1% chance of a blackout at some point during the year.

    You will not get to 0%.

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  • [–] 8 points 1 year ago (11 children)

    Author's diagram is about summer. Fall, winter, spring is about heating-degree days. If you're heating your home with electricity, you'll not get there with batteries.

    So, working towards a solution, there are other ways to store excess energy than in batteries. One example is sand, which can be heated to very high temperatures. Insulate a sand container well and its storage can do a lot of home-heating.

    Example: https://www.livescience.com/technology/engineering/a-scalding-hot-sand-battery-is-now-heating-a-small-finnish-town

    We'll need to put a lot of different methods into use. There are many practical ideas out there, and they'll need to be tried.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 year ago* (10 children)

    The sand storage is used for district heating. It's not much of a substitute for single homes that have electrical heating or are off-grid.

    It's a great way to balance both the electrical and the heating grids so that more electricity from renewables can be used to offset other means of heat production, but it needs to be done by the district heating supplier. I doubt it makes sense for individual houses.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago* (5 children)

    When I was a kid my parents had electric resistance heat with some very effective thermal storage.

    Each room had a unit about the size of a typical radiator. The unit was basically an insulated box with a small circulation fan. I’m not sure what was inside but always assumed some form of brick - they weren’t expensive so it couldn’t be anything exotic. At night when electric rates were low, whatever was inside the units was heated up. During the day, the only power usage was a small circulation fan controlled by the thermostat.

    I just got a heat pump installed and thought thermal storage would be worth considering since I was also looking into solar, but contractors acted like they never heard of it, and there really didn’t seem to be any consumer units available.

    The solar panels are another story. I don’t see how such a scammy (in the us) industry even exists. They make it really hard to give them my money

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  • [–] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)
  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    Yep, those look familiar. However for heat pumps I found one manufacturer in Canada plus a few experimental things

    While I don’t have timebof use metering, I was looking into solar and it could be really useful for shifting the load so solar does most of the heating

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    Very old heaters used to contain lots of asbestos. It might have worked well.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    Not that old, plus I don’t see it.

    Asbestos is great at insulating really hot things so was used on boilers , especially ships and industrial to insulate the hot pipes and improve efficiency. However in this case we need something with thermal mass: any sand or rock might do, or water, or oil, or a modern phase change material. That material next to the heater will get hot but the entire mass won’t, so can be insulated with standard materials. There’s no point in something like asbestos

    An important part of my point was also that what I assume were cheap materials was enough to take advantage of nightly time of use metering. In upstate NY, a standard “radiator” per room was sufficient, similar to hot water or steam heat

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (3 children)

    Right, you really need scale for sand batteries to work. It would be difficult for individual people to do, especially in suburban London.

    District heating also works better in denser housing. In other words, not suburban London.

    Dunno what heat pumps are available in England, but that's probably the best option here.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago (1 child)

    Suburbs are fine for district heating, but it's a massive long term investment.

    For UK in particular, I also think proper insulation and triple/quadruple window panes are much needed to curb with the increasingly scorching summers and freezing winters. I was surprised to see soo many houses with single paned windows in London.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago

    Oof. If they're running around with single pane windows, yeah, that's pretty bad, but also the easiest thing to fix.

    IMO, triple pane and onward provide only marginal benefits over double pane. But the jump from single to double is a big one.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    you really need scale for sand batteries to work

    Not at all. First, (hot) water batteries are excellent for home heat storage. Sand/dirt is even more storage per volume required, and completely complimentary in sending hot water through it (pipes) to make it hotter. No combustion heat means less air exchanges, and a 300C rock/dirt/sand pit has losses that radiate through house.

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