1. Why does lemmy not have a laundry dedicated forum? How have lemmy been a thing for this long with no laundry dedicated forum?

  2. I live in an apartment where there are public washing machines available but the filter for the washing machines are DEFINITRLY not regularly cleaned (most of my laundry smells like vomit right now T-T) so should I just clean it all on my own? in the wash bin? What tyoe of wash bin should ? What else should I consider?

  3. If I do get a washbin do you have any suggestions as to what washbin I should get or sny special considerations I should consider? I plan on getting a steel one. Also I live in canada

  4. I have a lot of merino wool stuff to clean so does anyone have any advice on suirfactants that shouldnt be used on merino wool stuff other than enzymes and bleaching agents?

Thanks to anyone that helps.

Edit THIS is a similar model of machine than what we have here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mWzJ1gw3-j8&pp=ygUobWF5dGFnIGNvbW1lcmNpYWwgd2FzaGVyIGZpbHRlciBsb2NhdGlvbg%3D%3D and I dont know how much trouble Ill get intk for takong off the back part and cleaning out the filter.

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[–] 33 points 3 months ago* (3 children)
  1. Probably not enough traffic or interest for one but you’re free to make one if you like. I wouldn’t mind having a comm for it.
  2. This is covered by your rent/strata fees. Put it to them in an email that multiple machines have a notable foul odour and require sanitising, filter clearing and general maintenance. If you’re renting and the property manager doesn’t action your request, email them 1-2 two more times before escalating it to the relevant government body. Here we can even get electricians/plumbing done and have the bill reimbursed by the property manager/owner if they take too long.
  3. Personally, don’t increase your labour/expenses to subsidise things other people are responsible for. If you’re getting this because of issue 2, get the property manager to sort it, it’s literally why you pay rent/strata fees. (See end).
  4. No idea here so have a lame “wool wash?”

Landlords must:

  • Maintain the tenant’s home in a good state of repair and fit for habitation and at the landlord’s expense comply with health, safety, housing and maintenance standards.

https://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/consumers/renting-a-home/i-am-renting/landlord-tenant-responsibilities

Canada seems similar to Aus in so far as there should some decent government resources to find your rights and obligations as a tenant and how to escalate an issue should you get an arsehole property manager that doesn’t do their job.

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  • [–] [S] 7 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Thanks. TIL

    Ill admit I have practically no knowledge when it comes to laws surrounding renting in toronto

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

    No problem. The only reason I know is from lazy/entitled property managers who expect to fleece people out of a significant portion of the money they work for and then just do nothing to earn it.

    If you pay rent, you’re either paying someone mortgage or straight into their pocket. Keeping the place in a decent or at least liveable condition is the least these people can do. It’s literally their job title, manage the property or else you’d be just paying the property owner directly.

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  • [–] 25 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Why does lemmy not have a laundry dedicated forum?

    Because you haven't made one yet. ;)

    Mind you, for a topic like that, I'd expect it to take a good amount of effort to make it "active".

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  • [–] 15 points 3 months ago* (1 child)

    Maybe we need a How To Adult... oh look !adulting@lemmy.world

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  • [–] 15 points 3 months ago

    When I lived in a place with shared laundry space I tried for a year to basically focus one machine that I tried to care about secretly so it didn't get over used when people noticed it was better. Started off very gross, I tried a few different store bought items meant to clean your washer which helped a little and I'd empty out the dryer lint. It just sucked was very gross.

    After a year I went to a Laundromat and just used there. Much better. Look for places with an attendant or employee working. Best advice I can give you.

    As for the wool, idk man check YouTube?

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  • [–] 14 points 3 months ago (11 children)

    It's because people don't do "whites" anymore.

    1. Run a load of white clothing and use bleach and hot water

    2. Put clothes in dryer

    3. Wipe the inside of the washer, takes 10 seconds

    You have now cleaned a washing machine....

    You can skip #3 and save 10 seconds, the hot bleach water will kill whatever is making that smell. But depending on how bad it is, you may want to do that a couple days in a row. Don't do a normal load after, let it sit for a while.

    The stuff that smells bad is stuff growing where water sits, so you want that bleach water to sit there and not be flushed out. One cycle will probably do it tho if it sits long enough.

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  • [–] 11 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Make sure your "white" are only white with no colors, texts and other designs you want to protect, before using bleach, it will damage them.

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago

    I bleach stuff with color all the time. No idea how and when the machine mixes the bleach, but everything comes out nicely. I've had other machines that apparently dumped the bleach in there and ruined things.

    NOTE! Pure cotton will bleach. You don't bleach a cotton T-shirt with color in it!

    One more tip: I do the bleach load last and hit the "extra rinse" button. Not sure it makes a difference with my current machine, but it's helped on models I had in the past. Some of those would hold bleach somewhere and drop some on the next load.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 3 months ago (7 children)

    Ah. Thanks for reminding me . Im not even joking I myself dont do whites anynore simply to save money on bleach. ALL my white everything has been donated.

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  • [–] 7 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (3 children)

    Honestly you might want to run the hot bleach cycle with no laundry, or some cleaning rags, rather than anything you care about. Because you might find the hot water is rusty from disuse, so they come out beige despite the bleach.

    As for your wool items, there's several kinds of "wool wash" beyond Woolite you can use in your sink. Remember wool sweaters need to dry flat, so only do one or two at a time or you'll have wet sweaters all over the apartment. Squeeze out excess rinse water but don't wring. Roll in a clean dry towel and squash hard, (use a clean surface so the towel will be usable after it dries) then lay it on a mesh rack or another clean dry towel to dry.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago (2 children)

    Thanks for the tips.

    Do you know the science as to why wool swesters need to dry flat? Have you ever tried drying them by hang , and if so what happened?

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    If you hang them they will stretch and not fit right. Nothing complicated, just gravity on stretchy knits heavy with water. To protect the wool when washing, don't work too hard. Just swish it around a bit, and don't soak more than about 5 minutes.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    How much is bleach in Canada?! A generic gallon is around $6 at Walmart, which, while stupid expensive for bleach, that gallon will last 16-32 loads (1/2 cup vs. 1 cup).

    Even without bleach, try washing whites on hot. And wash them by themselves! I divide everything into black, white and whatever. No fuzzies on the black, white stays white, and whatever. :)

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago

    No joke I only have 2 colors of clothing . Depressingly Black and Depressingly Gray. Every other color of clothing does not exist to me anymore and has been cleaned and donated away cause I dont to want to spend anything to re-dye any of my blue,red,yellow, green, purple, whatever other color clothing.

    It is what it is

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  • [–] 11 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

    Go to a laundromat and use their machines or a wash/dry/fold service.

    Alternative:

    If you’re truly desperate to get away from public machines you can get standalone mini-washing machines that take up little room, and just hang-dry clothing on a collapsible clothes dryer. The washing machine can be sold to recoup some of the costs when you move. At $5-$8 wash load and 25¢/5 min dryer a load around me 20 loads would pay for a mini-machine. You can do laundry at your convenience, at home, and for cheaper as the machine sorta pays for itself in saved $.

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago (5 children)

    If you can't wait for your landlord to fix it for now. Why not just look for a coin laundry shop in the neighborhood?

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 3 months ago (4 children)

    the closest coin laundry is quite a distance away from where I live. Like a good 3 or 4 km away lol.

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago (5 children)

    I don't know much about it, but if I was in your shoes I'd question what those compact electric ones are like. Apparently you can get them as cheap as $160 and they don't all need water lines, like you can take a pitcher and fill some from the top, then empty the water in a toilet or such. Maybe they are junk, but maybe not 🤷. Things like this: portable mini washer

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 3 months ago (4 children)

    Damn I think the page glitched on me cause it simply says 'Details not available for this product'

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago* (3 children)
  • [–] 5 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    I have a foot powered washing machine that is good for small loads but now that I have a house and my own machines I only use it for camping.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago (1 child)

    i was wondering about buying those foot powered ones.

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago

    It doesn't fit a huge amount so you would still need to go to a Laundromat for sheets but it was very nice when I was in an apartment with 2 machines per floor. My 3 loads would cost me about 15 dollars or more while the foot powered one, a Drumi would take more smaller loads but I could do 1 or 2 loads a day while I watched TV instead of paying my landlord.

    The drained soapy water would have dirt in it while the rinse water was relatively clear of dirt so it could be reused as my next loads soapy water.

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  • [–] 4 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (7 children)

    Why does lemmy not have a laundry dedicated forum? How have lemmy been a thing for this long with no laundry dedicated forum?

    Because you haven't created one

    The washers probably stink because people leave the lids down all the time.

    I've also never seen a filter on a washing machine, so...

    Let's think about this - it fills with treated water - water that's drinkable. Then detergent is added. Clothes get washed, dirty water drained, fresh water used to rinse, twice.

    What purpose would a filter serve other than to be a maintenance item?

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  • [–] 6 points 3 months ago*

    Laundry machine filters are in the bottom of the machine and are for the water leaving the machine. They catch things like lint, and pet hair. When the filter is full it becomes a habitat for mildew

    A full filter can also make the washer drain more slowly which means the tub becomes a habitat for mildew and the rinse cycles are mixed with old, dirty water.

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago (4 children)

    Most front ends have a drain pump filter to catch any debris from your clothes (hair, pocket lint, etc) so they don’t clog the drain hose. I don’t think they’re super common in top loaders though I’ve seen those have similar lint filters as well.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago

    Top loaders with the central agitator usually have one in the middle on top of the agitator itself, under the bit where you put fabric softener - that whole piece pulls out and there's a little mesh basket to catch the lint.

    Either that or they will have one as a panel in the side of the drum.

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (2 children)

    It's normally a small door on the bottom corner of the front of the machine. MAKE SURE WASHER IS DRAINED AND EMPTY BEFORE OPENING. Most are reusable and you basically remove it, wash it in a sink and reinstall. If your washer won't drain this is a quick and easy thing to check and repair but have plenty of towels around, once you pull out filter water will drain out of it and go everywhere (several gallons).

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago (1 child)

    Sure, if you own it. If it’s a shared use machine like alluded to in OP, you leave it because it’s not your responsibility to maintain.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago

    True. But still useful knowledge a lot of people don't know if you own your own machine. One time my washer stopped draining, no matter what it stayed full. Someone one of his baby socks got stick on the filter and clogged it. I had to call a repair company, they guy was like "let me check something before I start working on it". He pulled the filter, found the sock and put it back it. I was expecting a 200 dollar fee for repair + parts. He said it was only 40 dollars for his travel time. Later on noticed I got a "statement" from the company. He marked it as "owner was not home, unable to access machine" which had a fee of 40 dollars... They included a statement that the ticket was closed and if services were still needed a new ticket would need to be created.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 3 months ago

    I would create a community but I dont know if I could moderate it. I am busy most of the day for most days . Also Im a lemmy noob so I have no idea how to create a community or even if Im allowed to make it lr allowed to moderate it.

    Amd yes , people do leave tbe lids closed most of the times when theyre not in use.

    Also I thougjt thatt most front loading modern washing machines had a filter thingy like this: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea6ZQhIJHfU&t=58s&pp=ygUcd2FzaGluZyBtYWNoaW5lIGZpbHRlciBjbGVhbg%3D%3D Am I wrong?

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  • [–] 3 points 3 months ago

    When I need to soak some things outside of the washing machine, I just use a mop bucket. Lately that soaking has been whites in oxyclean to get them looking more white again. Oxyclean (or any similar non-brand name oxygen based agent) is great for organic stains (blood, sweat, oils, grease, food) and smells, but bad for wool. DO NOT USE OXYCLEAN ON WOOL. For my wool stuff I just use regular detergent in cold water and hang dry. If you're trying to get smells out of wool you might try drying them in the sun. Wool also doesn't do great in hot water, but that's okay. Just trade heat for time, i.e. letting something soak in cold water instead of a short wash in hot water. Same principal used to make cold brew coffee.

    If there is a filter to be cleaned on a public machine, you can probably check it before running your own through. At the very least give the machine a sniff first. Sometimes a quick rinse cycle with an empty machine is all that's needed to clear out the lingering funk from the last load. If not, the machine needs maintenance.

    Laundry advice is weird in that it can be very broadly applied and general (the actual chemistry and fabrics are pretty similar everywhere), but also hyper local. What works in one region might not it another because the water is different, chemicals have different and confusing names, etc. The best advice is really to read the clothing tags (and learn to interpret those laundry hyroglyphs), read/research the detergent ingredients and instructions, group like items together, and test new tips and tricks on less critical pieces of wardrobe before doing an entire load.

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  • [+] 2 points 3 months ago (13 children)
  • [–] [S] 2 points 3 months ago (12 children)

    I do wonder about giant solid objects thst are stuck in the filter and cannot be easily removed even with oxy cleaner.

    Like in this video :https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vljDVdRieio&pp=ygUcd2FzaGluZyBtYWNoaW5lIGZpbHRlciBjbGVhbg%3D%3D here this dude finds coins, drill bits, etc.... other big objects that wont be clesned out with an oxidizer or hot water rinse.

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  • [+] 2 points 3 months ago (11 children)
  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago (10 children)

    Does not removing such things lead to eventual destruction of the machine? Also those things could form a ' barrier' if there are enough of them and this barrier will make the oxidizer clean FAR less effective no?

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  • [+] 2 points 3 months ago (9 children)
  • [–] [S] 1 point 2 months ago (8 children)

    bleach isalso a deoxidizer? If you know ehat is the cheapest, buy-in-bulk deoxidizer I can get my hands on legally please?

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  • [+] 1 point 2 months ago (7 children)
  • [–] [S] 1 point 2 months ago (4 children)

    Don’t use clorine in a washing mashine. It will disinfect the machine, but it does not react the same way as hydrogen peroxide or sodium percarbonate. Additionally, chlorine might attack synthetic materials that are needed for the machine to work.

    ....Then why is sodium hypochlorite recommended to clean white clothing in washing machines? ...Wot?

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  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago (2 children)

    Sodium percarbonate is a mixture of Sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide, that's an oxy bleach, which is essentially super alkaline, it will kill proteins (urine, some vomit, grease, blood, faeces etc) but it's more so designed to do so on clothing, it is the least harmful bleach on clothing, (except certain materials like wool or silk, it will absolutely harm natural fibres,as that's what it targets, kinda)

    For woollens, silks etc use wool wash only. And use a very small amount, you only need a teaspoon to a tablespoon amount in a full washing machine load.

    If you go to websites, you will find the ingredients or active compounds of different detergents, brand names might put the price up for the brand preference, but you want to look for something that's not too cheap, a slightly more expensive brand (not crazy expensive, just mid prices) would have more put into the working efficacy of the product.

    Less or no fragrance, never use fabric softener. It quite often shortens the length of your products and worse.

    You can use laundry sanitiser, in place of fabric softener which I would highly recommend when using a communal machine, canestan make one.

    IF YOU WANT TO TACKLE CLEANING THE MACHINE.

    The smell is likely coming from built up skin, hair, fluff decomposing in the machine. If you fold back the gasket (rubber door seal bit) and have a look in the grooves, what does it look like? What does the machine smell like in the drum? Which model is it?

    Once I found the answers to these questions, I would look up the model and the cleaning recommendations. Follow them, you probably want a toothbrush to get in the grooves, and give it a losen run a tub clean cycle, or hottest wash WITH NO DETERGENT. See what happens, did that improve the situation?

    Still awful? Some machines can tolerate and recommend vinegar, which can do a lot for killing the fungal elements, mould etc. But check if the machine recommends it first. If not, you can get descaler from a store (labelled washing machine cleaner specifically) and run that.

    If you can't remove the drain filter, the question I would be asking is, does it still drain, if yes, use it, if no, it might need a technician to deep clean and remove, troubleshoot and replace any parts not working (find out who you talk to about getting that going?)

    I would pick a couple of rag towels or something you don't care about and run a quick wash to see how it comes out.

    If you do get the drum clean, and remove the smell enough, good to go, and I would carry a rag to wipe out the gasket before and after use, to slow that sludge and mould build up, they can get.

    I'm assuming front loader, because you showed a front loader yt clip, let me know if you need tips on top loader.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 2 months ago (1 child)

    But surely sodium hypochlorite kn a washing machine can be used in place of spdium percarbonste for this same purpose right? Or are they very different for this purpose? And yes it is a front loader. maytah commercial brand and model . Ive put a youtube video in my edit that shows a similar looking machine to the one in our landry's room

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  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago

    Sodium hypochlorite is just standard bleach. I've never used it for taking stains out of clothing, I know some people do. It's more a last option, than first go to for machine cleaning. I wouldn't recommend it because it *can errode plastics and rubbers, relatively quickly, especially if not rinsed well at certain concentrates, that you would come close to needing to clean the machine. Whereas the oxygen bleach won't errode the plastics or rubbers, and should effectively dissolve any biological contaminants.

    Here's what I'd do, if wanting to try to salvage using the machine.

    1. Wipe clean, and agitate whatever dirt or sludge in the grooves you can see on the door, gasket, and barrel.
    2. Set a tub clean cycle or hottest wash setting available.
    3. Check if that worked. If not..
    4. Try deep cleaning the machine with oxygen bleach, or oxy bleach it might be called. Run a wash super hot, with soak options. That's the least corrosive, or damaging to clothing or machine, it's also the chemical components least likely to cause trouble with any other so I'd start with that. It's a super awesome component to have in your laundry, anyway, it gets out sweat, blood, stains brightens, great stuff. (sodium hypochlorite, common bleach and the limescale cleaners or standard washing machine cleaners conflict to make dangerous gasses so I'm going to suggest those as a last option).
    5. Still having issues, it might have to have its drain filter cleaned, and possibly professionally, but you could check what a replacement is and just break it off, without harming the surrounding casing. Can't clean the filter or any of those options?
    6. Try either limescale remover (standard washing machine cleaner) or standard bleach, (sodium hypochlorite) but not both. Although the smell of that bleach might stay in the machine, and at high concentrates might cause damage. If you use one, don't use the other, they react badly together.
    7. None of that works? Give up and buy a small hand crank machine, something you can spin, or go to the laundromat?
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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (9 children)

    Definitely get a detergent made for wool. I use Heritage Park Silk & Wool laundry detergent (for any animal sourced fibers).

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago (8 children)

    ya but do you know if the surfactsnts in that brand of detergentt is REALLY good for your wool?

    Like the brand woolites has enzymes in some of their products despite the fact that we know that enzymes completely fuck up wool.... how do you know that heritage park silk and wool doesnt have these same ingredients?

    Also surfactants. Like we know that enzymes fuck up wool as I just said....do surfactants ALSO do that? And in what ways? Also what surfactants destroy which fabrics?

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago* (6 children)

    Where you at? Continent is close enough.

    Wool clothing really does need a special detergent. Surficants are one part, of course, but the pH shouldn't get too high, and a lot of detergents tend to have high pH since that helps clean. The high pH is not good for the wool and will make the scales on the hairs open and become brittle, which is the opposite of what you want.

    You also want to avoid the enzyme protase/substilin. They both are effective against proteins, which is great for a lot of soils, but bad for hair, which is made out of protein. Other enzymes like lipase, cellulase, amylase, and mannanase are all perfectly fine and won't damage the fibers.

    It's just next to impossible to find a detergent with enzymes but without protase. There are a couple manufacturers in Europe, but none in the US. There is one US company reselling an EU detergent (The Steamery) but it's pricy and is scented.

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  • [–] [S] 0 points 3 months ago (5 children)

    im in canada . toronto specifically.

    And when you say pH shouldnt get too high what type of pH we talking about here? 12 ? 13? 18? Also where did you learn that pH shouldnt get too hiigh please? (I just need something to cite and loook back to cause I have awful memory and cognition)

    Also how do we know FOR SURE the specific surfactants dont affecr wool? As youve just said lipase, amylase, cellulase, etc... dont have much of an effect on wool BUT protease does....how do we know how this specifically works for surfactants used in wool washes?

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (4 children)

    Surfactants and enzymes are different things that perform different but complementary jobs in your laundry. Think of enzymes as chemical scissors that can only cut very specific things. They're very much like puzzle pieces, with lipase only cleving triglycerides (dietary fats) and not mineral oils, for example. Mix a variety together and they break down certain stubborn, sticky chemicals into smaller parts. That helps release them from fibers and makes it easier for surfactants to grab them to be washed away. Surfactants are chemicals that cling to soils so they can be suspended in water and rinsed down the drain.

    Wool is hair, so think of it like your shampoo. Shampoos are usually made to be pH neutral because we know high pH makes hair dry and tangle horribly. However, most everything in the wash has no problem with high pH, and surfactants work better with high pH, thus we generally do laundry at high pH's around 10 or so. Higher if you add bleach (please don't), oxygen bleach ("oxy" aka hydrogen peroxide), or even ammonia.

    Since you're in Canada look for Eucalan or Miele WoolCare.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago (3 children)

    Would you happen to knkw of the cheapest scentless brand that ships to canada please?

    I was looking at this brand right here https://www.ecos.com/laundry/hypoallergenic-laundry-detergent-free-clear/ and Im guessing this one goes for about 100oz for about 25 or 30.00 plus tax baed on what Ive seen stores advertise online

    I was also looking at this brand : https://store.eco-max.com/products/ecomax-laundry-wash-hypoallergenic-3l which goes for 3000 mL costs about 17.00 plus tax

    I currently buy soak brand wool wash scentless and it goes for 2250 mL costs 90.00 plus tax which is kinda crazy IMO in comparison to those other brands

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  • [–] 0 points 3 months ago (2 children)

    Unscented wool detergent is something of a unicorn i the western hemisphere, sadly.

    If you can stand the smell, Perwoll is probably your best bet up north. I've never smelled it, but there is no unscented option. There's Black, Colour, and White, depending on your wardrobe.

    Here's Black: https://www.reliableparts.ca/product/PERWOLLBLACK-Perwoll-Black-1-375ml-25-Wash-Loads/Persil-Detergents

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 2 months ago*

    ....I dont tjink you know what youre talking . You said that ' unscented wool washes are a unicorn in the western hemisphere.'.

    ....my ni gga what in the fuck is you talking about?!

    soak inc . is a canadian brand with an unscemted type of detergent. And then eucalan is an american brand with a unscented type of wool wash . bio vert and. eco max ALSO are americam brand wool washes which is enzyme frre and unscented but they have very little surfactants and therefore they dont work. Dude ....theres like five other brands of unscented wool washes available in canada , and the usa and probably even in Mexico and other places all over north america that are western hemisphere brands with unscented type of detergents . Only problem with them is that they are either highwayrobbery expensive or the surfactants in them make the detergent practically edible with how weak the surfactants are. My dude.... It took me 2 days to learn all of that. I was just trying to refind this comment to tell you how impossibly off the mark you are.

    You have no idea what youre talking about . You need to grow up and do muuuuch better research cause you were Waaaaaaaay off... because wtf?! lol?!

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  • [–] 1 point 3 months ago

    Take them to a laundromat? I know that sucks but probably a good way to make sure everything is treated appropriately

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  • [–] -3 points 3 months ago (3 children)

    Mommy still does laundry for a lot of Lemmings.

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  • [–] 2 points 3 months ago (1 child)

    Mommy (or daddy) ain't teaching this stuff. My mom (silent gen) barely taught me laundry as she assumed I would have a woman to do it.

    My kid's mom (Gen X) does EVERYTHING for them. When they're at my house I'm non-stop showing, teaching and getting them involved with domestic chores.

    When we (Gen X) got to college, none of the guys on my dorm floor knew how to manage laundry.

    tl;dr: It's not the kid's fault.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 3 months ago

    I pretty much taught myself or watched youtube videos on 90% of what I know about my laundry , sewing and clothing in general and Im a millenial .

    Most young people arent beimg taught how to do laundry until theyre older.

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