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[–] [S] 88 points 1 month ago (86 children)

If you consider depreciation and increasing gas prices, getting a 1 or 2 year old EV today is the best financial decision for those having that budget. It will also work for lesser budgets.

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  • [–] 69 points 1 month ago (29 children)

    If you consider depreciation

    Maybe I'm weird, but I never consider depreciation. If the car is worth anything more than scrap value, it's not yet time for a new car.

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  • [–] 39 points 1 month ago

    I drove a 20+ year old car up until I had a kid, and suddenly I started to care about those safety features from the previous 20 years (like airbags and crumple zone improvements).

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  • [–] 14 points 1 month ago (8 children)

    Can cost you more to maintain it though.

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  • [–] 19 points 1 month ago (6 children)

    I mean not replacing a 20 year old car can cost you more than a monthly payment of a newer car. My ev has been going strong.

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  • [–] 6 points 1 month ago (5 children)

    True that. Just got hit with a 2k maintenance bill for my 20 yo vehicle and looking to pivot to an EV. It helps that I don't drive much and work from home but I'm certain that my wife would prefer to drive the EV to and from work rather than her hybrid.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 month ago (4 children)

    Yeah, my friends are complaining about $50 a week for gas and I'm around $40 a month for electricity.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 month ago (6 children)

    It matters if you are in a collision for the payout.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 month ago (6 children)

    Unfortunately, you can't ignore depreciation. It's rarely possible to actually drive a car into the dirt, as they can last for hundreds of thousands of miles if properly maintained.

    Even if you intend to drive the car into the ground, you usually can't. Every time you get on the road it's a roll of the dice. Over enough time, eventually you roll snake eyes. You can be the best driver in the world, you can't beat physics. If someone pulls out of a parking lot right in front of you, you're going to crash. You can't skill your way out of minimum stopping distance.

    And this happens, depreciation matters regardless of your choices. The insurance company is going to offer you a settlement based on the depreciated value of the vehicle. Sure, in theory you could say, "well, they gave me the value of a 10 year old car, so I'm just going to buy another copy of the same car I just totaled!" But that rarely works in practice. Once they get that old, you really have to worry if the old owner took care of it properly or not. Driving a car into the dirt works well when you can be the original owner and know that the maintenance has been kept up with.

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  • [–] 8 points 1 month ago

    I said I'd drive my first car until the wheels fell off.

    Well, one day it actually did, coming around a bend on a highway. Fortunately there weren't many other people driving out at the time. I ended up flipping it over on the embankment, single-car collision.

    I stayed true to my word. Never fucking said it about another car since.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 1 month ago* (2 children)

    All cars get driven to the ground. You save money by being the only owner, and not changing car every 3 years. In that case, depreciation is irrelevant. Your insurance case is far from being average.

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  • Again. you can only do so much, especially if we're talking about buying a new vehicle today and driving that into the ground. Sure, you can keep things maintained. But even if you're the world's most skilled driver, you can't control other people.

    Just this last year we lost a 15 year old Corolla. We had been planning to drive it into the dirt. Driving down a side street, maybe 30 mph. Some person doesn't look both ways properly and pulls out right in front of us from a parking lot. No time to stop. Insurance declared it a total loss. Not worth fixing. Would cost more to repair than the thing is worth.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 month ago

    Then assume straight line depreciation between the car brand new and the car when it is scrap. If a $60,000 car lasts 20 years and you own it the whole time, you can consider the depreciation to be $3000/year if you'd like.

    Either way, at the end of the car's useful life you need to be prepared to pony up more money to buy the next one.

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  • [–] 15 points 1 month ago (19 children)

    I got a new 2025 ID. BUZZ for 63k a few weeks back. Any EV with that many seats is expensive and hard to find on our used market here. I think that was a decent price considering initially it retailed around 90K

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  • [–] 10 points 1 month ago (17 children)

    Hello fellow Buzz owner. I also bought a 2025 buzz new a couple of weeks ago. So far love having the EV kid hauler

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago* (10 children)

    Not quite.

    2901129012

    If you math that, it's actually $882

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (7 children)

    Ah yes the system that gives you the promo says.....

    What is the rate?

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (2 children)

    I don't follow. You don't go to McDonalds and do a home cooked cheaper meal at McDonalds. You aren't charging at home. You're charging at a network that isn't yours. The price of your home electricity is irrelevant. The price is what they say per kWh at their facilities.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (1 child)

    And if you don't know the rate on that network you can't put a value on the "free" Kws. Like if your went to McDonalds with a coupon for a free burger, but you can not find out how much a burger is you can't really put a dollar value on that coupon.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 month ago

    My sister has my old leaf and 2 kids. The leaf is the household car. The grocery getter. The child fetcher. When they announced the buzz she wanted one so goddamn bad. It’s the return of the minivan in electric form. Exactly what she wants but alas cannot afford.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 month ago (35 children)

    If you consider depreciation, that 1 or 2 year old EV today will take a much deeper plunge over the next 5 years than a 1 or 2 year old ICE vehicle, unless something changes rapidly or they change battery warranties to be 15 years or more.

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  • [–] [S] 8 points 1 month ago (8 children)

    You'll need to show data for that. Depreciation is not linear. The first year is worst and then not so bad.

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  • [–] 7 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (7 children)

    You can look up used car prices yourself. But sure.

    2 year old E-Tron for 65k

    5 year old E-Tron for 25k

    That 5 year old one is starting to look like a pretty good bargain already. The 2 year old one not so much.

    I can find you tons more pairs for EVs that have lost a ton of value going from 1-2 to 5-6 years old if you still don't believe me, but we'll have to discuss my hourly rate if I'm going to be working for you.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago (2 children)

    In 2003 I bought a 1993 Mercedes for 5% of its sticker price, inflation-corrected. 80K Km, new-looking. Everyone warned me about maintenance costs but the '93 was a rugged beast. Family road trips and multiple moving days and a lot of mileage. I was prepared for some expensive repairs due to money saved in purchase costs but got through another 10 years no problems, other than the 4matic AWD computer which just turned it into a solid RWD until I bought a used replacement.

    Gaming the ripe time to pick a used model really depends upon design and manufacturing, but the sweet spot for reliable brands seems to be 5-10 years.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago (1 child)

    In 2019 I bought a 2003 Mercedes for somewhere between 5 and 10 percent of its sticker price, I guess pretty close to 5 if inflation is accounted for. Maybe even less.

    It had 380k km on the odometer, but it had been through Lithuania so some of the modules showed 700k km when interrogated. Previous owner also told me that there's no way the 380k km is original.

    I did have to do maintenance on it, but the only thing that really let me down was the steering rack. It failed and then a reman replacement unit failed too. Only reason I got rid of the car, otherwise I'd still be driving it. Bulletproof engine and transmission.

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  • [–] 5 points 1 month ago* (14 children)

    Unless you are getting an old Nissan leaf, you’re probably going to be fine. Todays EV batteries are so energy dense they undergo less strain than the old versions.

    There were 2 problems with early EV batteries. First, they were not actively cooled and could cook themselves to death over time. Today’s batteries have their own climate control.

    Second, they were not very energy dense, so when they were being charged or discharged, you were moving a larger proportion of overall capacity in a short amount of time. Batteries do not like that. But as the capacities grew, the instantaneous load on the batteries dropped, so they didn’t have to work as hard to do the same thing. So they weren’t as abused and last longer.

    Event first gen Chevy volts are rolling around happily on their original batteries with no noticeable loss in capacity to this day.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (7 children)

    That's not entirely true. There's still risk of sudden battery failure. Otherwise these guys wouldn't have a business. Fortunately: Those guys do have a business and many others exist. For a couple grand at most you can get many battery packs repaired to their former glory. On a car where the battery pack is easy to remove, it should be fairly cheap assuming they can get cells somewhere (like other dead battery packs). The one in the video was done for 1€ as a joke, but that may very well be the true material cost of repair for an early Tesla battery since their cells are roughly the same as in an e-cigarette, 18650.

    It IS increasingly rare with newer EVs, but it's a failure mode where the dealer will tell you to fuck off and pay anywhere between 20 and 70 thousand unless in warranty and for some manufacturers (Mercedes) the warranty terms have been updated to say that if the battery is more expensive than the residual value of the car, warranty will only cover it up to the value of the car.

    All lithium-ion cells die one day. Majority will live a long happy life, but lifetime is not predictable on an individual level, only on the level of hundreds or thousands of units. I used to refurb laptops. I have the most experience with Macbook batteries, which I find to be very high quality for a laptop battery. I've tested at least a thousand of those, maybe 2-3 thousand.

    Apple says 1000 charge cycles is what one should last - if you manage to get over 1000 cycles within the warranty period and it drops under 80% capacity, bad luck, you're not getting a warranty replacement. If it's under 1000 cycles and within the warranty period, it's covered. I've seen one or two that had above 80% capacity on as many as 2800 charge cycles. Many that were over 1000 but still good, many that had dropped barely under 80% in 200, 500 or maybe 1500 cycles... But I've also seen a couple that were in double digit cycle count and had <=30% capacity left. Usually those were also swollen.

    It's just impossible to predict longevity on a single battery pack with proper accuracy.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago* (6 children)

    EVs scale battery risks down not up. An iPhone battery will age but remember, the EV has a higher capacity, so the pull is lower. Also, by the time it hits a used car lot, the degradation on the battery is pretty much leveled off. It’s exponential decay, not linear. You MIGHT have to swap a cell. That’s it. That’s much cheaper than a timing issue or a transmission eating a grenade.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (5 children)

    Ha! But I can replace a timing chain or repair a modern automatic transmission, for not much money. The cell replacement would in fact cost me much more money because I am NOT touching those voltages.

    But also, that's exactly why I'm saying it's best to get an EV that's actually used, not one that's near-new. The depreciation hits hard for about 4-5 years, not one or two and by the time the model's been out for multiple years, there are donors to get cells from. They're much cheaper than new at 1-2 years, but they're DIRT cheap 5 more years after that.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (4 children)

    By the time the average driver understands they need a timing chain replacement, their interference engine has already digested their entire top end.

    Don’t fear voltage. Because it’s the amperage that turns you into a donor.

    You want an EV that came off its first owner. Depreciation was absorbed by the first owner, replacement parts are pentiful, the battery has done all the evil is is statistically likely to.

    Honestly, short of buying Musk’s dumpster Delorean there’s no bad options at that point.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (3 children)

    By the time the average driver understands they need a timing chain replacement, their interference engine has already digested their entire top end.

    Ah yeah, I'm not very average as a car owner anyway. I hear a noise, I'm investigating. So far my current car, notorious for timing chain (tensioner) failure, has made chain noise on cold startup exactly twice, both times when oil level was low and that leak's been fixed luckily. Though for that engine it's been said that a cold startup chain rattle for a few seconds is OK, warm startup chain rattle is not. But with oil level in spec, mine doesn't even do it cold.

    Don’t fear voltage. Because it’s the amperage that turns you into a donor.

    I = U/R, there are no amps without volts. Average car I'm looking at has 300-400 kW peak power, so the battery pack is capable of outputting at least that. And with P=U*I at say 400 volts, 400 kW means the battery pack needs to be capable of putting out 1000 amps. If we were talking about a 400 volt source that quickly drops down under load, we could talk about "amps kill", but with a high power battery pack, the amps aren't exactly limited by anything other than the voltage and your body's resistance.

    You want an EV that came off its first owner. Depreciation was absorbed by the first owner, replacement parts are pentiful, the battery has done all the evil is is statistically likely to.

    Nah, I want one that came off its second or third owner. I see too many 1-3 year old ones on sale from their first owner. Too new, not depreciated enough.

    Honestly, short of buying Musk’s dumpster Delorean there’s no bad options at that point.

    Well, tons of them actually. Many of the cheaper ones don't have heat pumps - nonnegotiable for me in an EV due to the shitty climate I live in and the fact that I'd like to enjoy a decent amount of range even if I can't preheat it. Then there's ones that otherwise sound good on paper, but the entire infotainment system is two touchscreens. I want physical controls. I'm very demanding of my cars in certain respects and it's actually easier to meet most of my criteria in an older car than a newer one, which is my biggest frustration with EVs. Give me a 2005-2012 Mercedes S-Class but as an EV and I'll be happy until the end times. Or even better, a post-facelift L322 Range Rover as an EV. That should be a treat if there's no Ford engine to go wrong lol

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (2 children)

    My old leaf had a heat pump and while it was nice, the newer EVs have such dense batteries they don’t really need that anymore. My bolt does fine in the Ohio winters. I do hate the Chevy brakes and suspension but otherwise it’s great.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (1 child)

    Hmm we do have slightly colder winters here, but not catastrophically colder.

    I do remember earlier EVs losing about ~50% of their range in the winter here though. Not sure how it is with more modern ones without heatpumps.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago

    It’s not the heats causing that. Batteries lose range when cold. Modern batteries have climate control and simply using them also heats them up. Winter driving reduces range on gas cars too.

    The range in winter is lower but not as severely as it used to be. My eatimated range year round fluctuated between 250 and 180 miles and that’s fine.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (3 children)

    So, a couple of things: Personally, never been afraid of degradation much, outside of the old Leafs of course. What's always scared me about EVs is the chance of a sudden battery failure. Less and less of a problem now that individual cells can be replaced on many models rather than replacing a battery pack that costs more than the car (yes, used battery packs are an option, but IMO a bad middle ground between cell-level replacement vs new pack - you don't get the warranty of the new pack or the cheapness of individual cell replacement), but it's still an issue EV owners seem to mind, because there are TONS of 6-7 year old EVs for sale super cheap. Because the battery warranty is 8 years.

    And secondly, I wasn't actually trying to say anything about having to be worried about the risk of failure in the parent comment, I was talking about the massive depreciation you take on if you buy a new or lightly used EV (because people are afraid of batteries). Meaning I find it to be a great deal to buy one that's already near the end of that battery warranty, you save tens of thousands vs getting a 2 year old one (which itself is, yes, much cheaper than a brand new one).

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago (2 children)

    You know what’s funny is my sister has my old Nissan leaf and it’s still going. The range isn’t great but for a comfortable grocery getter that handles great in the Ohio winter and will likely kill a fucking panzer in a head on collision, it’s prefect. Her family has beat on that thing in ways that would bring shame to the Chrysler minivan we grew up with in the early 90s. (Dad playing mechanic killed it. It wasn’t Chrysler that killed that wood-paneled tardis. It was dad.) she has 2 child seats in the back and it’s basically a rolling bunker (back seats anyway. Frontal offset isn’t stellar on this model)

    I got it used as a cheap way to get to and from college and it was the only way I could afford college. But even then, that leaf will not die! It’s on its second suspension, its covered in little kid ick, the damn touchscreen was clobbered by what I assume involved the autistic nephew, but otherwise it will not die.

    Meanwhile the bolt I replaced it with only asks for tires.

    These things are the only remotely practical way to do pritvate transportstion.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago* (1 child)

    Hey if it works for her, that's great. I've said it elsewhere in the thread, but battery lifetime is completely unpredictable on an individual level. You COULD develop a bad cell even very early in its life, effectively completely disabling a battery pack that hadn't even really degraded much yet... Or you could also get an absolute peach that lasts 3x longer than the average battery of its kind before the device (vehicle) it's in gets retired with the battery still functioning. Anything in between could happen too.

    And my experience with non-car lithium batteries which I've touched a LOT of, has been that on average, degradation does tend to level off. For Macbooks it was around 80-90% capacity where it would usually level. Meaning with that Leaf being as old as it is, I would expect degradation to have slowed down on that.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago (1 child)

    Here in Denmark fuel stations are closing so fast that a petrol or diesel car will soon be more difficult to operate than an electric one. I firmly believe that in the next 5 years, prices for petroleum powered cars will drop like a rock.

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  • [–] 1 point 1 month ago

    I firmly believe that in the next 5 years, prices for petroleum powered cars will drop like a rock.

    I'll start a business importing them then. They're still very popular in most of eastern Europe, including Estonia. We love used cars that have depreciated like rocks here.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago

    I'm glad someone else is talking about EV depreciation, although it is not a popular subject in this community.

    I'm still very much pro-EV, and it's undoubtedly the future. But I think not talking about this one negative thing does a disservice to new potential EV buyers.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 child)

    Oh no, you're not getting me, I love depreciation. Re-read the first sentence.

    Yes, it’s a good thing for buying a very used car.

    Depreciation doesn't stop after 2 years. If you're the second owner of a lightly used car you intend to sell before the battery and powertrain warranty is over (as most do with EVs, at least here), you still get a fuckton of depreciation happening in the next few years with an EV, less so with ICE. If you're looking at something older, the extra depreciation benefits you a lot.

    Personally I'm waiting for good 7-8 year old EVs to exist that are not Teslas. We're just a few years out from that for many popular models, at which point you can have the car of your dreams for 20k. For cars that were 100k new. If you get one that's 2 years old, it might still be 60-70k. Once that 100k car is around 20k, there's so little left to drop, you give no fucks. Even in my country there are now EV shops that will repair battery packs instead of replacing them so a few years of warranty isn't worth paying tens of thousands more for a car if you can probably get a battery pack repaired for <=5k in the very unlikely event that it fails. I'm not talking about gradual degradation, that's natural and not a big deal IMO with modern battery packs, I'm talking about actual sudden cell failure that leaves the car as a paperweight.

    I've been looking at Jaguar I-Pace as I consider these sufficiently depreciated (can have one for ~15k), but I'm not a huge fan of crossovers and I dislike that most have no tow hitch and even if they do, they're rated to tow only 750 kg.

    And to clarify while normally under "very used" I would mean 15 years or so, which is about what it takes an ICE vehicle to become properly cheap, for EVs this is slightly less, as you can get them super cheap at, like I said, ~7-8 years already.

    I just meant that buying one that's 2-3 years old is still hella stupid because the next few years will continue to be brutal.

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