[–] 5 points 4 months ago (1 child)

I think it’s worse than security theatre. I am not usually a tin foil hatter, but im convinced tech isn’t fighting back on this because it’s a great opportunity to hone in that personal advertising.

Notice how they push back on EVERY legislative move or new regulation. But, suddenly now that the same tech can help them out, crickets… ?

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  • [–] 15 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (3 children)

    FWIW. I have defeated live cam with subtle random movement with an AI generated face video looking straight ahead with slight movement, blinking, slightly wider shot (wider shot mean angles aren’t as obvious and a little random movement was sufficient).

    I served this back through OBS (Open Broadcast Studio).

    But it’s fucked that we need to resort to tricks.

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  • [–] 5 points 6 months ago

    Smells like phantom voltage/current to me. Get a high value resistor at least 100kOhm, preferably 1MOhm to start with. Connect the chassis to ground via that resistor and take the same measurement again. The voltage you are seeing should collapse.

    For reference, RCD (current leakage safety switches) pop at abour 30mA depending on the local rules. So you are orders of magnitude under that.

    Cheap multimeters can show weird numbers when measuring high-impedance floating metalwork, especially around mains wiring and electrical noise. That does not prove it is safe, but the raw voltage reading may not mean what it first appears to mean.

    The tingling I wouldn’t trust just because, tingling… BUT it can well be a thing with non grounded or poorly grounded gear. I get to tingling from my laptop even though it is connected through a power pack.

    The big issue with metal chassis and single insulated housings is that without a ground if it does develop a fault (say something hot melts abd grounds out and r a motor winding cracks), then you are genuinely hot with nowhere for current to go. It really should be grounded somehow if it’s an old chassis that isn’t designed with multiple insulation.

    At the very least. Get a safety protected plug (residual current device). They are cheap and effective. But they are you last line of protection not your first.

    • not an engineer. YMMV. I don’t know anything and my advice probably faulty .. etc. but definitely if you know what you’re doing and can do it safely: test voltage with a big resistor (should be an easy test), get safety switch.
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  • [–] 2 points 7 months ago* (1 child)

    It’s a nice idea but impractical. Energy = mass x gravity x height

    Say 10 tonnes of water pumped into a massive 20m high tower… E =10000x9.8x20 Joules. ≈ 2 mega joules.

    Theres 3600 joules to a watt hour so divide that and you get:

    ≈ 550 watt hours (0.55kWh) of storage (assuming perfect efficiency of the turbines). About the same a half a dozen big cordless tool battery packs.

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  • [–] 19 points 8 months ago (1 child)

    No. I see where they’re coming from. You’re not embracing the spirit of The Fucking Corolla.

    You think you’re replacing just a radio but who knows what kind of imbalance you’ll introduce.

    It’s a Corolla, without Bluetooth. That’s the rules. Dont fuck with it.

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  • [–] 23 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    There are infinitely many. But the cool math that Feynman worked out is that infinite diagrams (paths) kinda look random, unless they’re not random (aligned).

    When you get enough infinite “randombess” you tend to cancel almost everything out (not actually random but phases that destructively interfere), so what you’re left with (when you “sum all paths”) are solutions that favour a particular direction or phase.

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago

    I think for those classic clicky dumb thermostats they should be called thermochaser.

    You dial up a temp and that’s pretty much the least likely temp that you’re setting, the f****** think will overshoot panic, u-turn dive back past the set-point hit the breaks u-turn again apply full throttle.

    Or perhaps a thermotease. For when you do that fine adjustment to try and make it just barely click then 10 seconds later it’s too hot or cold.. so you give it anither tiny tweak thinking you gotta be close but no, it’s miles away from clicking - burning away, quietly mocking you.

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