Today I got an estimate for fixing my cheap Amazon-special 9000 BTU mini split that the proper prior resident installed.

Heating guy said that repairing the old one would cost $2-4K if he could find a new compressor for it, but nobody sells parts. A new high-quality 12000 BTU Mitsubishi unit with warranty and parts support would cost $7500 installed.

Meanwhile Home Depot is selling 12000 BTU mini splits for $500-$1000 (not including installation but I don’t think installation can cost more than about $1000)

What am I missing here? I would much rather have a quality unit with parts support and proper trained professionals installing it, but at this price differential that just seems untenable. Are air conditioners really unreliable cheap throwaway items now?

Is there a way to make CoMaps on iOS find contacts’ addresses on search?

That is, if I enter “John Doe” in the search bar it should show John’s address as entered in my iPhone contacts.

I feel like this must be there but somehow I can’t find it.

I have a 300Ah 12V LiFePO4 battery setup with three 100Ah batteries (internal built-in BMS in each battery) in parallel. I have it fused at the parallel junction with a 400A fuse.

I want to put a 125A MRBF fuse on each battery instead. If I do install per-battery fuses, is there a reason to keep the combined big fuse as well? I see wiring guides recommending both but I'm not seeing any explanation for why.

The reason for moving is that the current fuse gets way too hot when pulling 300A sustained. I don't have room in my setup to easily install the really big fuse holders with heat sinks that are made to handle 300+A sustained current. (Yes, I checked the voltage drops across all my connections. They are very low. It really is the fuse getting hot and not a weak crimp etc.)

How hot are fuses supposed to get / what kind of voltage drop is expected?

I built a system which should allow 300A discharging (1C) / 150A charging (1/2C)

But if I run more than 60A, my main battery fuse gets hot. If I run 300A the fuse get rapidly gets too hot to touch, and the heat spreads through to the attached cables, the battery, and the temperature sensor on the positive battery post. Is this somehow normal?? I’ve tried three different types of fuses with no real improvement.

— Here’s a photo of my installation with voltage drops labeled at 60 amps draw only. I don’t have voltage drops measured for the 300A draw because I don’t want to leave it running that way for long.

The main fuse on the battery is a 400A ANL fuse. I’ve tried with a 300A MRBF fuse and with two 150A MRBF fuses in parallel. All of them get hot to the touch when drawing over 60A.

Help?

Ok, I don’t know where else to post this and I have to tell somebody, so y’all get to suffer:

I checked in to a campground this week and the earnest guy warned me very seriously that THREE different people have seen a cougar prowling the campground recently. They don’t know if it’s all the same cougar, or could be maybe three different cougars, but be careful.

Also there is a resident bear who frequently comes around disturbing the guests.

And I had to listen to this with a straight face and tell him I’ll watch out and not make any dirty jokes in response. It was very difficult.

Anyway so I have definitely been keeping a close eye out for cougars but I don’t know if I’ve seen any. 🐈