Can’t wait to see the tool you fashion to retrieve to tool you fashioned. Keep us updated op! Good luck.
Edit: I’ve had a ton of luck with CLR, hot water, and a decent amount of course kosher salt. Plug the holes and give it a shake.
Can’t wait to see the tool you fashion to retrieve to tool you fashioned. Keep us updated op! Good luck.
Edit: I’ve had a ton of luck with CLR, hot water, and a decent amount of course kosher salt. Plug the holes and give it a shake.
are you sure it’s not a contraption to get a brush stuck inside a rusty fuel tank
That thing should have a tether. As a general rule anything you don't want stuck in the hole its entering should have a tether or at least a flared base.
That's probably a good deal smarter than my usual method, which is to pour a cup or two of kerosene in there plus two handfuls of random small nuts and washers, and shake the shit out of it for a while.
Fuel injected bikes have the advantage of having that nice big hole where the pump mounts. For tanks on carbed bikes, just remember to use hardware small enough to fit out the petcock mounting hole so you can get them out again when you're done. Usually there's that damn lip around the filler cap that prevents them from being poured out the easy way afterwards. Or you can chase them with a magnet retriever tool.
Brave man doing that in the shower!
Electrolysis brother, high current 12v and some salt: https://www.rideapart.com/features/583821/how-to-remove-rust-electrolysis/
Use something to coat the inside after so you never have to redo it, e.g. POR15
Yeah you can buy fuel tank interior coating.
I bought my 2012 victory with 3000kms on it for next to nothing because the fuel tank was fucked and the bloke who owned it didn't want to deal with it.
Pulled the tank, rinsed it out, put through the cleaning solvent then cleaned again.
After that the interior coating that I sloshed around. Took a rusted tank to brand new in about two days most of that time just waiting on stuff to do its job with time.
Thank you for taping it directly to the back scratcher, rather than some other rod, so we don't have to guess at how you came up with the idea
I also shop at IKEA.
Acid is your friend.
It's filled with 6..7% acetic acid solution, I use the brush to speed up things before my missus kicks the project and me out of the house.
I save the acid from old car batteries before I return them. Sometimes I concentrate it in a glass pan in the sun. :) Worried that animals will get into it so I have to hide it. But hey! Free acid!
Just get some laxatives bro.
Aint no reason to rasp your insides to clear your bowels.
Fibre foods are the real thing though.
Vinegar my friend just use vinegar white distilled vinegar 50/50 it with water. Pour maybe a quarter gallon of white vinegar in there and add another quarter gallon of water and shake it and let it sit and shake then let it sit then shake then let it sit and flip it around and shake it and let it sit until the rust dissolves then pour it all out give it a quick rinse and then pour baking soda and water in there to neutralize the vinegar otherwise it will flash rust shake it a couple of times and let it sit for a few minutes shake it and let it sit and then rinse it completely and you're golden.
That's pretty much what I did. 5L of 10% vinegar plus some water ate almost everything away. Now my problem is 11 pinholes and a leaking seam...
This is where JB weld and or soldering it up would be the order
I've also heard good reports about a supposed thin lacquer like coating that you can apply to the interior of the tank and then let that flash off and dry to help it seal it. But I have never personally used so I cannot actually State the effectiveness of any of those.
My wife would fucking kill me if I did that in our bath tub.
Same, but good thing she isn't at home for a few days
Just clean the tub out after?
I mean it's half your home too.
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