I'm not a fan of any stretchy fabric from a bifl perspective since it wears out. Depending on design it can be replaced if it needs to be.
The main problem with zippers is that they aren't really made to be load bearing the way they are when used as a boot closure. It's an automatic weak spot. It probably doesn't matter for a fashion boot, but the good designs I've seen don't just have a zipper to the top, they have some kind of additional support to prevent the zipper from being pulled apart.
OP, look up paratrooper boots (aka jump boots). I think they fit the look you want, and it seems like there's plenty of brands that make them with good materials.