The machine is a Hurco made in 1980. I've updated and modified the main board to run G-Code, but the tape drive still works <3

The new tome has arrived.

Working on boring out this hole to 7.5", need to insert the tool holder on the end like this on my boring head. Last time I did this part, I just ran the tool in reverse and took light cuts. This time the entire head unscrews any time I touch material. Do I need a LH insert holder to run the tool out like this now?

cross-posted from: https://piefed.social/post/1205786

Got this old Szim lathe I'm working with at a new shop and in trying to identify what style of spindle nose this is. It looks like a typical short taper except the threaded holes are on the chuck/adapter plate instead of on the spindle nose. Haven't seen this style before and I'd like to have a name that will let me look for more adapter plates/chucks designed for this spindle nose.

Looks like a type A2-8 short taper except the holes on the spindle nose aren't tapped. It's got this weird slotted bolt hole pattern on the back that rotates into place to secure the bolt heads while the bolts actually thread into the back of the chuck or adapter plate.

Thanks in advance.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/39759212

crosspostato da: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/39759210

Archived

German prosecutors and customs investigators have raided the premises of a machine tool manufacturer near Munich. The company is suspected of supplying more than 20 high-precision machines worth approximately €5.5 million to Russia in violation of European Union sanctions. Three company employees have been formally charged. Raids were also carried out in Baden-Württemberg and Bulgaria.

According to an investigation by Süddeutsche Zeitung, the company in question is Spinner, based in Sauerlach, a town just outside Munich. Spinner manufactures machine tools at various sites, including near Stuttgart, as well as in Bulgaria and Turkey.

In connection with the investigation, a Spinner machine subject to export restrictions was confiscated in mid-February 2025. Export documents indicated that the machine was supposed to leave Germany in August 2023, traveling through Poland and Belarus on its way to Uzbekistan. Investigators suspect the machine was in fact delivered to a Russian company affiliated with the manufacturer. There is also evidence of additional deliveries through Turkey and China.

The Munich prosecutor’s office cited a detailed report that aired in late April on the TV channel Arte, which traced the export of a Spinner machine to Russia via third countries — allegedly with the use of falsified documents. In the Arte report, one of the company’s three managing directors, Nikolaus Spinner, denied the allegations, claiming the machine had been sold to an Uzbek agricultural equipment manufacturer. However, a manager at the Uzbek company told reporters by phone that no such purchase had taken place.

[...]

So as the title says, I've been a welder for 15 years, and now I've been hired into a machinist position, but I'm running the machine shop in this business. I've done machining work related to the welding I've done, sometimes even working as a machinist when the welding work slows down. My last job was 90% machinist work with 10% welding repair.

Now I'm expected to be a full machinist and run a whole machine section (2 lathes, 2 mills, and an entire wall of disorganized tooling) by myself. To the point where I'm the only guy in the shop that can figure out how to set a power feed on a lathe or mill. It's a little overwhelming tbh. But I'm struggling through.

Today's challenge: drill and bore a hole through 10.5 inches of 1018.

What I've done:

chucked up the material in the 3 jaw on the lathe

beat around the stock until it was running mostly true (as far as can be read with a dial indicator on mill scale)

Center drilled with 3/8 center drill (only center drill available)

Proceeded to drill through with 9/16 because that's the only drill we had that was long enough

My problem now:

When the drill popped out the other side, I can see through my spindle it's maybe 1/8 off center. Definitely wobble as seen from the back of the spindle.

How can I correct the straightness of my hole? The plan was to step up to 1 inch then 2 inch drills to be able to fit in the big boring bar, but i don't want the bigger drills to follow the pilot off center. Does it matter? Can I just feed the bigger bits slower and the problem will self correct?

Edit: Success! Flipped it around and started a couple inches with a stubby 3/4, then I got an extremely stout 1 3/4 to redrill the hole nice and straight. Once the first couple inches were started it was rigid enough to follow its own hole all the way back through.

(dw it's antifreeze)

So those who know me IRL or cyber stock me. Know that in my free time i do have a very small laser cutting business, i started off with a really crap diode laser and eventually made enough to purchase a full size C02 Laser. Now one of the most important thing that machining has thought me. Is that WORK HOLDING IS BASED. Why indicate a shitty piece of bar stock each time when you can just make a jig/fixture and run thousands with minimal work. So i very much took this to heart and instead of spending 20 minutes to frame a coaster in my laser cutter to make sure it is 100% straight. I took a ratty piece of sheet metal (that i paid WAAAAY to much for $90USD) and made my "ghetto bed". now it was handcrafted the same way a child makes a macaroni picture. Very imprecise, and not flat at all i tried my best at making it flat but well, im a machinist not a metal worker. which truly shows my 1/1 piccaso's masterpiece. So i hear you WHERE IS THIS GOING!! this "ghetto bed" worked very well for small stuff, when family and friends would order something i would quickly throw in my jig load up my file and BAM its ready to go. This bed was purely a proof of concept, from the post i saw on light-burns forum of a guy doing something similar with sheet metal. So fast foward 3 years later and i bought plate 3/4 plate stock (which i paid out the ass for) order it to size and draw up a CAD model. a few thing i learned from the original "ghetto bed" was that the exhaust is underneath the bed and needed some way to quickly slurp up the smoke, for this i have a snorkel i am 3d printing and running downward (still work in progress as we speak) and secondly and most importantly! I wanted threading, i originally drilled 7/16 holes to which i just vaguely threaded bolts and nuts through. But now i have 1/4-20 spaces 1.30 inches across the bed, which will make setting up fixtures more solid and repeatable unlike the original bed. i did go with 1/4-20 for a few reasons, first off its standardized and very cheap for bolts, second and most importantly its a small hole. Which then allows me to drill and re-tap if i strip a thread and it also gives me alot of mounting holes. However having tons of holes were also a nightmare to hand tap and debur the backside.

The keen eyed among you may notice slots on the edges of the bed, i decided to go with slots purely because the original mounting holes are not concentric or symmetrical. So F it slots!

im very happy with the bed, i plan to paint it black to make it not reflective and have played around with the idea of open sourcing/selling bed like this, if people are intreasted of course!