[–] [S] 1 point 2 months ago

I dont have any magnet, they seem to calibrate based on distance set and then rpeat that distance in either direction to open or close.

The curtains are short and light, they are cheap and grommet style. Not any fancy fabric weight. Think kids room cartoon animal curtains.

Tbh I am giving up on them they are clunky and not a great addition. I can't be sure they will either open or close. And they are louder than I thought

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 1 point 2 months ago* (1 child)

    So the best I can figure, these use a single fixed reference point (the magnet you put on the curtain rod) against the time it takes to travel from the reference point to the user set point of "fully closed curtain".

    To troubleshoot yours I'd recommend first removing the curtain. Verify the magnet is positioned where the bot would be when the curtain is fully closed, then set the open position in the app by running it back to the "open" bot position (so it can record the time it takes to travel). Once set up, set it to open, then closed, then open, etc and verify it keeps both its positions. If the bot works in this config, then add the curtain back. If it stops working reliably then the introduction of the curtain is the issue.

    Could the curtain be too heavy? Is the curtain rail not providing good grip for the robot? etc.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 2 points 2 months ago (3 children)

    Apologies, I misread that.

    So the problem you're having is when you give the OPEN command it continues to try to open far past the point where the curtain is open and it is still running trying to force it open more (which it can't of course)?

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 2 points 9 months ago (1 child)

    We've now had more than 15 years of smart home devices. People should really know better than to buy into proprietary systems. But they don't, so companies continue doing shady shit, killing devices your bought, forcing paid updates, etc. All people see is it works with Google/Siri/Alexa and that's it.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 3 points 9 months ago (2 children)

    Check logitech. They fucked all thier universal remotes that were deliberately designed ( by logitech) to use their web interface for programming last year. Zero consequences so far.

    As someone with a perfectly fine and functional harmony 525 i am still deeply, deeply pissed.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 16 points 9 months ago (2 children)

    #1 reason why i use zigbee, and if it can't be controlled solely by HA it doesn't go into this house.

    Seen too many companies pull this. Logitech are the biggest turds on ny shitlist

  • source
  • [–] 0 points 9 months ago

    If you don't let it update (by removing its access to the open internet), then after February you should still be able to do this. You'll lose the ability to control it from outside the home via the internet/mobile, but it won't be e-waste.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 4 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago)

    I have a bunch of belkin wemo, tp-link kasa and some other off brand smart switches that I use with home assistant locally. The problem I see here, is that as far as I know you still need the manufacturers app to link the smart switch to your network for the initial set up. The second they abandon the apps and stop updating them, people are gonna have problems. If you ever need to reset the switch, or change your WiFi SSID/password, or you move and have to set up the devices anew, you still need the manufacturers apps to do that initial set up.

    I'm really hoping someone builds an app or service that can handle the initial handshake to get the device on your network from the initial WiFi hotspot they set up for their phone app to do its thing.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 5 points 9 months ago (5 children)

    For anyone still wanting to use them you can restrict their access to the internet and use them on your local network still. I have one dehumidifier hooked up to a wemo outlet in my bathroom and it still works.

  • source
  • [–] 1 point 10 months ago

    Ah yeah these would be 120v sonoff has other Euro spec stuff, I've seen some switches, so there may be a 240v equivalent.

    Honestly day to day I couldn't tell you the difference between zwave and zigbee they act as you'd expect and the UI updates status the same. The main difference is the setup and disconnect procedures, which can be even device specific.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] [S] 1 point 10 months ago (1 child)

    Thanks! I remember reading something about zwave getting an acknowledgement when the order has been done. Like turning on a light bulb. While zigbee doesn't do that. Is that right? I guess it isn't pertinent and my issue would be solved by changing the switches instead of the bulbs then.

    I have to look into that pack, but Amazon usually doesn't ship stuff like that to Norway. There is also the 240v vs 120v power supply difference to consider.

  • source
  • parent
  • context
  • [–] 3 points 10 months ago (2 children)

    Couple of things your issue with losing status for zigbee items is that they are expecting constant power to report status (switched on or off) so putting those devices on switched outlets won't work well. This is true for both zwave and zigbee.

    I have both zigbee and zwave devices. I find that having both is useful zigbee has a good selection of plug-in outlet devices, sensors(motion temperature ect). There's a really good deal outlet 4 pack sonoff on Amazon. Zwave is great for smart switches basically anything hardwired, switches, dimmers, fan controllers, ect.

  • source
  • view more: next ›