Those '20000 casualties per month' are about half of the ukrainian casualties reports.

Likely those are 20000 completely pacified and now good russians (aka KIA) per month.

That is why they're fleeing!

Ohhh, fuck off.

Syrskyi opinion/letter is useful to display his own obtuse attitude.

When he was named for this position, a big chuck of the people groaned and only acquiesced because Syrskyi made a public effort to acknowledge those concerns. So the people gave him a chance. But he blew it.

When Syrskyi had a day-to-day chance to show he had improved, that he was open to change, he didn't, he defaulted to stubbornness.

Nevertheless, this commander should not have ever died in a war started from the greed and barbarism of putin's russia.

RIP. Thank you. And condolences his family.

Might be. But it has been a progressing one that does not match the changes/updates on my end.

In what sense?

Yea, I cannot open the catbox.moe videos nor the telegram ones. In some of the telegram ones, telegram says they are too big to show, and recommends using telegram.. The catbox.moe have always given me issues on direct link to see within lemmy's jerboa app. But they would work by clicking on the link posted in the post body

but not anymore.

Thanks for the answer!

When are military personel not talking officially? ...have you seen Sen. Kelly prosecution by trump-hegseth-dptOfWar, they claim retired military personel do not have free speech, aka they are always bound to speak officially. So, I ask again, when are military personel not talking officially?

From the site: with opentherm modulation "the boiler will run for longer periods but it will be producing water at lower temperatures, resulting in less energy being used and maximising the time spent in the higher efficiency condensing mode." So, longer running times should not be a problem in your setup.

Having seen this webpage https://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/news/opentherm-explained , which kind of modulation do you have? Long boiler runs are not always bad.

Also, are you able to use the living room TRVs to restrict the livingroom radiators heat output while keeping what you have set as the main setpoint, in the use case you detailed. That would avoid having the main thermostat triggered off too soon.

I'm really confused by your post. The questions don't seem to match eachother's. I feel you have not made clear the specific use case you're troubleshooting.

I am an inexperienced knob on Homeassistant and home automation, that lurks here out of curiosity and to catch some easy crumbs left around.

But, I feel that I know enough about central heating, radiators and thermostats to justify commenting.

The central heating boilers, pretty much always, just work as on-off. With some internal (boiler) logic on safety limits, like the working temp of the radiator fluid.

Thus your obvious question has an obvious answer. The way to have the main thermostat sending a heating request is to lower it's setpoint temp.

At the same time, the TRVs are supposed to limit/moderate the lowness of the main thermostat setpoint, i.e., to moderate the way in which the main thermostat activates the boiler 'too soon'. And TRVs allow you to adjust the comfort of each room (as long as the main thermostat is already requiring the boiler to be on).

As for the presence sensors. Radiators take a long time to heat a room. Like dozens of minutes. If the presence sensors work as their name suggests, I feel they are not a good match with radiators. Plz teach me!! How do these work? What happens when you are sleeping, or when siting, reading, or watching TV, or in the computer.

"I've heard about central heating systems not enjoying a fully thermostatic valved circuit."

'Enjoy'? Ehh, the pump (usually a part of the boiler) and the tubing that make the radiator's fluid circulate, from the boiler around the house and around the radiators, they are not contructed/designed to have the circuit closed. 100% closed. Thus the recomendation not to put TRVs in all radiators - which could potentially all close off at the same time and damage the circuit (with overpressure). The recommendation is to have at least one radiator with it's manual valve always open. The recommendation is also improved to have this radiator in the bottom of the house or the closest to the boiler, instead of a radiator in the top floor bathroom where you've left open the window to let out the moisture or something.

Again, what is it really what you want to solve?

Money, I'm going to bet it's money.