...yeah, it's time. I've finally found games I actually want to play that require a half-decent machine, I make all my money on the computer, and I regularly do video editing as well. I always keep my machines for a long time, so they need to be as future-proof as possible and I can't justify saving up for a PC unless it's going to be good enough for the foreseeable future. So here's where my head is at, I'd be grateful for any advice.

tl;dr https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xjP3yF for the general idea, but I'm open to other ideas. It's going to be a linux machine, and all AMD since I hear the drivers work better/are less fiddly. Aesthetically, I like an all-white motif but looks are secondary to pure power and long life. I would like to be able to emulate PS4, Xbox 360, run S&box so my kid can make games, and render my clip shows at high speed. The budget I'm targeting is about £2k. Will mean saving up for a couple months. Parts I'm considering:

CPU

  • Ryzen 9 9950X3D (I'm most excited about having a strong CPU, this one appeals to me even though it's a bit of a splurge)
  • Ryzen 9 7950X3D
  • Ryzen 9 7900X3D

GPU

Anything AMD, 16gb preferred but at least 12gb. AMD RX 6800XT or higher perhaps. RX 7800 XT or similar would be great.

Memory

16gb preferred, DDR5, not too fussy about brand. Maybe someday another 16gb if it becomes worthwhile.

Storage

1 or 2TB M.2 NVMe SSD, any really who cares. I don't need a lot of storage, most of my games are lightweight indies or backed up on my server.

Power Supply

Anything 850-1000w, preferably modular? I dunno.

Cooling

Possibly an AIO liquid cooler. I'm iffy on that, would be happy with a fan if it's more recommended.

Case

Fractal does a nice white wood effect one (North XL), as does Antec (Flux Pro). Happy with anything that matches, but don't really love showy RGB, prefer understated and clean looks.

all 87 comments

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[–] 14 points 5 months ago (6 children)

You might also consider a lower tier machine that could be upgraded sooner. And don't skimp on the power supply, either. Be sure you get something reputable so it doesn't fry the whole system.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (5 children)

    Copy that about the PSU. Maybe it's just the kid in me, but I can't get as excited about saving up for a reasonable PC. I make all my money and have more than half of my fun on a computer, I want to treat myself to one I can be proud of. The grownup side of me gets onboard when I think about it staying performant for years longer, if I get the best one I can. When those two are of one mind on something, it's hard to talk them down.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (4 children)

    That's the fun part of being an adult with adult money. You can save up and spend a little extra because you enjoy it. You're already saving a significant amount compared to buying pre built. You should also make sure you're budgeting for a monitor upgrade to really get the most out of the upgrade.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (3 children)

    I think I'm happy enough with 1080p. Anything more than that can be visually overstimulating anyway, like those high res soap operas I sometimes see when I find myself in the company of a television, it's jarring!

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    I agree that more than 1080p isn't really necessary, but something that has blur reduction and can do at least 72Hz is a good investment, IMO. 72Hz is what it takes for me to not see flicker without taxing my GPU too hard, and blur reduction means you can even read text when it's moving across the screen instead of turning into a smear. Got a decent BenQ several years ago, and I haven't regretted it once.

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  • [–] 8 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    I see your PC part picker has a 9060xt instead of the 6800xt mentioned in your post, I was just gonna suggest that. Raw compute the 6800xt is only like 10% faster but it draws basically double the power. The only real downside is VRAM bandwidth, the 9060xt is around 320GB/s while 6800xt is 512GB/s, but this only matters if you're doing LLM's or something else predicated on memory.
    To be honest if you're going that big on the CPU I'd probably pair it with something stronger than the 9060 (like 9070xt) but the GPU is the easiest thing to resell and upgrade later if you prefer.

    Only other note I have is check out the PSU tier list, doesn't matter what you get as long as it's a good one: https://psutierlist.org/tiering-criteria

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  • [–] 7 points 5 months ago (11 children)

    I built a new PC last year and I decided on the Fractal North XL (mesh) and I absolutely love this case. It looks awesome, the airflow is great, although it did take a little bit of tweaking as my first instinct was to put fans in every place possible, but I realized that some fans were fighting against eachother and the already good temps dropped a bit more after I reworked the fan arrangement.

    The other thing that is great about this case is how much space there is inside so it's easy to get your hands in there when hooking everything up or when making changes after the initial install. The cable management system is pretty good too.

    They aren't exactly cheap but Noctua 120mm fans are worth it in my opinion, I barely hear the fans in the case and I've never once had my CPU or GPU thermal throttle even when running a continuous benchmark and my PC is purely air cooled.

    One potential downside is that with the mesh version of the case you get a side mounted fan mount that you can pick between putting it above the CPU or GPU. I chose to put over my GPU, but there was barely enough clearance above the GPU's power connector. Certain power cables might not fit without putting pressure/stress on the power connector which is generally not a good idea as it could cause issues with the power connector like shorting or melting it if the connection isn't perfectly secure. Not a huge issue for me, but something to be aware of and if anything you can just not put the fan mount above the GPU.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 5 months ago (10 children)

    Thanks for the tip about the case, I'm a sucker for the wood effect! I think I'm leaning towards air cooling only too, because the idea of ever having to fiddle with a faulty pump next to prized components is giving me mild anxiety.

    I think someone else was also singing the praises of Noctua, I think I'll take that onboard!

    The mesh case looks good, but if I do manage to pick all white parts I might go for the clear side panel. We'll see!

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago* (5 children)

    Another great fan are the Phanteks T30s (120mm), if you have room. They are thicker than normal fans, but are about as quiet as Be Quiet fans, while moving tons of air.

    You just need to make sure that your case has clearance for them. They are absolutely cracked on thick radiators and exhaust fans. I use them on custom water-cooling builds, and the loudest sound is coil whine, not fans.

    https://phanteks.com/product/t30-120/

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (4 children)

    I like the look of that, and I am reading that the fans that come with the Fractal North can be a bit loud. Taking Noctua onboard. It's a roomy case, how many fans (in+out) would you use?

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (3 children)

    In my case, I have 3x 120 on the 360mm radiator and 2x120 on top for the 240mm radiator, and one exhaust fan that is also 120.

    That said, I think you could easily get away with three to five case fans depending on cooling, fan size, etc.

    140mm fans can also move a lot of air, and I used those for years. 120s just fit my current and prior case a bit better.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (2 children)

    That's cool. I'll probably do something similar to you. I'm sticking with the white+wood aesthetic, but after all this research and advice I'm going with a Lian li A3 MATX instead. It'll fit everything nicely enough, and I'll have room for 3x120 bottom, 3 on top, and 1 in rear. I might have the rear one as an intake, ducted into the CPU cooler so it's always getting ambient air. The GPU will be sucking in air from below so that should be fine too. Also, 4 intake Vs 3 out will ensure positive pressure, minimise dust. 140s would be nicer, but I don't think they fit this case.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)
  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago

    Funny timing, I just pulled the trigger on my parts orders. In excited. He's the very final parts list: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/rMgyK7

    note: the mobo is actually a Sapphire PURE B850M WIFI AM5 DDR5 PCIe 5.0 MicroATX, but pcpp didn’t have that in their lists.

    I'm glad I went with building my own. I managed to spend a grand total of £2093 including shipping, which is within kicking distance of my original budget - and a prebuilt of this calibre would cost about double that. At least!

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (3 children)

    I picked up a Lian Li LANCOOL 217 because I wanted the wood trim and excellent cooling efficiency but it does have a tinted side panel so may not be your thing. It is considered Medium but it is really substantial and surprised me with how much extra space it has inside; the front (2) intake fans are 170mm and it comes with (2) 120mm for cooling the GPU with another 140mm on the back for exhaust. They are all controllable via PWM using a single port on your Mobo so I tuned them for great flow with almost silent fan noise. Can also handle a very tall CPU cooler and massive GPUs mounted vertically or traditionally.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (2 children)

    That does look pretty good, and I like that it includes so many fans and dust filters. The CPU heat sinks I'm considering are all pretty big, up to about 160mm. Do you think it'd fit?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    According to the vendor's spec sheet, this case can handle a CPU cooler that is up to 180mm tall. I used an Arctic Freezer 36 which is 159mm tall and it fits really well with a fair bit of room to spare.

    My biggest regret is getting a 2 fan GPU (Sapphire RX 9060XT): 1) because it has a lot of coil whine that even capping the frame rate at 120fps can't completely eliminate and, 2) since I have so much extra space in the case and could have gone with a 3 fan model for even better cooling at lower fan speeds. This case can handle GPUs up to 380mm long (max) and even has a built in, adjustable sag support.

    If you don't mind a behemoth on your desk (or under it), I think this one was a good choice and it even had the seal of approval from Gamer's Nexus (fwiw). Build quality is excellent and I have zero complaints so far.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago

    Yeah I'm currently only considering 3 fan GPUs, but mostly because now I'm really interested in the XFX 9070 XT Mercury Magnetic Air. If I've written all that correctly. It's the honking great big one that you could serve a pizza on top of.

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  • [–] 4 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    Looks good! My only advice is that 16G RAM isn't future proof and DDR 5 does weird things when you have too many sticks

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  • [–] 4 points 5 months ago (3 children)

    Ok, so unconventional and not recommended unless you know a lot about PCs, but have you tried looking on your local Craigslist/marketplace equivalent? I'm still seeing a decent amount of options for used PCs (US, so your experience might vary given the economic uncertainty of your local {it ain't great in the US right now}), so it might be worth it give a look around, and see if you can save on a basic pc and upgrade the GPU or the like.

    Another option is to look at amd minisforum boards that have a laptop CPU soldered on, they take laptop ram and I've been quite pleased with mine (was ~$300 for the board and CPU for my desktop about a years ago).

    Also, AMD is pretty smooth with linux, generally would recommend if using Linux, though Nvidia isn't the absolute worst so long as you aren't trying to run on mobile (like a laptop, done that, never again).

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    I've always wanted to be into PCs, but always ended up buying premade just to get things done. Now that I have a bit of breathing room and actual goals, it's finally time - but beyond escaping Windows and going all-AMD, I don't know how adventurous I'm willing to be with building my own or buying used kit. I looked on Gumtree but I kind of got sketched out, and (embarrassingly) a bit sad about not having control over the aesthetics.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    Nah, I get it. I was the same way, first PCs were prebuilts or laptops, so my latest build was a mostly scratch build (I already had built the case {makerbeam} and reused the PSU, and as mentioned I opted for a minisforum board to save on cost for an overkill CPU). That being said, I keep an eye out on marketplace and occasionally see a PC that is probably being sold because rent is due, and those are often decent deals and you are probably helping someone though a shit moment in their life.

    Enjoy the building! Also, as someone who finally committed to getting off windows this past year, you won't regret it (though I would watch a couple of videos about Linux roughly works, answers on forums are great but it helps to understand the overarching problem).

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (3 children)

    I think this about a year and and loved my modular power supply. I’d highly recommend shelling out the extra few dollars for a brand name and modular power supply. Makes cable routing so much easier.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    Brand names, you say? leans over with pad of paper

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (18 children)

    Why are you looking at a >8 core CPU but only 16 gigs of ram? Unless you're doing heavy productivity work get the 9800x3d/9850x3d over any of those CPUs. The experience is better on single CCD CPUs. Use the money saved to get 32 gigs of dual channel ram and you'll see significantly better performance.

    Unless you're doing serious productivity work with at minimum 64 gigs of ram any of those CPUs would be at best a waste of performance, or at worst worse performance than a "normal" CPU.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (17 children)

    This is the thing I'm struggling with most, because I'm drawn to a strong CPU as the foundation of a long-term build but I'm learning that things might not be so simple. Does rendering a 3 hour clip show every week count as heavy productivity? I've been doing that for a couple years. And what's this about single CCD experience? You mean with gaming I assume?

    I thought I might start at 16gb RAM due to the shit show we're in right now hoping it's good enough... You think a 9850X3D would be a good ten year CPU?

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (10 children)

    Unless you're using the CPU for work that you're getting paid for it (or you have fuck you money) don't get a dual CCD CPU. Games can't effectively talk across the link between the two and you'll run into stuttering issues because of it. Especially since only half the CPU has the bigger vcache and the other half doesn't. Linux handles this a bit better than windows, but for gaming both limit you to one CCD. The only upside is background tasks could run on the non vcache CCD and leave the cached one for purely gaming. I don't think games will ever fully take advantage of dual CCDs effectively. It's a waste of money with no gains for gaming.

    Unless you need (not want) 64 gigs of ram you don't need a dual CCD CPU. If you're doing fine with your current setup rendering the video then the 9800 will do well too. If it's even a question you don't want it.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (9 children)

    I'm reading that driver updates might have effectively solved the stuttering issues, you think it's still something to contend with? I do a lot of video rendering and stuff like that, so it's not purely about gaming. I also think it would be nice to be able to stream while gaming, even though it's not something I do at the moment.

    Also, I do plan to use this machine as my daily driver for at least the next decade, and I want to be able to add more RAM later and keep running whatever terribly un-optimized software gets written in the 2030s. It's a question of whether the 9800 will be a "do everything" CPU for the next decade or not, what do you reckon?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (8 children)

    Windows' fix is to entirely shut off the second CCD when gaming. So you will never see a performance gain from the dual CCD chips as long as it does that. Linux largely does the same thing, but I don't think they turn it entirely off. And those dual CCD CPUs need so much memory bandwith that even dual channel DDR5 chokes them out, it's almost offensive to the CPU to do that to it. And with that low end of a GPU I doubt a 9800 would be slowing you down. I have a 4090 and my 9800x3d almost never goes above 50% utilization. Streaming has a minimal impact on the CPU thanks to the GPU en/decoders. And if you use GPU encoding when rendering video then the CPU isn't that busy.

    If you're gonna upgrade parts in the future why not get the MUCH better performance now of a 9800 with dual channel, then in the future upgrade the CPU? I doubt next gen will be a new CPU socket, and AMD has been great with that compatibility. Plus the rumors are next gen AMD CPUs will have 12 cores per CCD so you get the best of both worlds. Buying a 9950x3d and then pairing it with an RX 9060 is like buying a ferrari, and putting donuts on all 4 wheels. Yes hypothetically in 10 years of driving 1000 hp might come in handy. But 9.999 of those 10 years you're missing out on so much. If the 9800 can't run the game in 10 years then the 9950 won't either.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (7 children)

    Okay, fair enough. Thanks for being patient, this is a lot to take in. I'm trying to incorporate everyone's advice and rework my parts list, what do you think about this one (https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/Wmyk9K )? Is the 9800 going to be happy with a 9070 XT, or am I barking up the wrong tree there?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    A much more sane setup. You'll still be very GPU bottlenecked, but much closer in terms of pairing. I prefer a CPU over a GPU bottleneck anyways since multi tasking will bring that down. But I doubt you'll ever see much of a CPU bottleneck with the 9070. And since you have 32 gigs of ram you're not going to be horribly RAM starved. Full fat linux distros aint the light thing they once were. Catchy OS on startup uses like 3.5 gigs of ram, and running FH6 I was using just under 16 gigs of ram not including what the iGPU was reserving. And that was on my old laptop. Nowhere near as powerful as that.

    You could save a few bucks by getting a pcie gen 4 SSD, and maybe spring for a lower end 2TB drive with the money saved. The speed difference isn't that insane like sata to NVMe, or even gen 3 to 4. But that's personal preference, and x870 has plenty of spare PCIe lanes for getting a second drive later on.

    Also since your case has a PSU dungeon you don't need to pay the white tax for a white PSU. With a modular PSU you can replace the cables with custom aftermarket ones, but you might be paying more than the white PSU for those. I'm not fully up to stuff on PSU quality tiers, but as long as that's a highly rated one 850 watts should be plenty. That one seems OK, but gigabyte has had really bad responses to exploding PSUs so I'd maybe stay away. If you go by this list then shoot for B tier at minimum. A good white PSU will cost money, but you do have the dungeon.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago

    That's a really key point about the PSU dungeon, I keep forgetting about practicalities like that! Good to know about Gigabyte being shady, I thought I'd heard that name somewhere before.

    One thing I forgot to mention is that my storage needs on my daily driver PC are very minimal, because I have a 6-bay media server in the house. On top of that, one of my old PCs will become an additional server with my 14tb external HDD attached, so I'm really not sweating storage too much. If it gets cramped I'll drop an SSD into it down the road?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (4 children)

    Looks balanced to me.

    You might be unhappy with the noise and temps with that cooler, though. I used to run one like that on a 105 TDP processor (your pick is 120 TDP), and it would get toasty in some games. Loud as well.

    Consider getting a 360mm AIO from the same manufacturer. They last about 5 years, so you'll probably have to replace it later on, but it'll be much, much quieter and will let you not throttle under extensive heavy load. They cost about the same. Just make sure to never tighten the screws (if it holds on, it's good enough), as well as ONLY ever screw them in through the fans. The metal used in AIOs is very very soft. Also, make sure the AIO actually fits in the case.

    Another thing I know people do for rendering is getting 1 fast SSD, 1 regular SSD, and 1 HDD.

    Fast SSD is for what you're working with, it should be kept fairly empty. Regular is for your apps, OS, and other work, that is not currently needed. HDD is for cold storage.

    Currently, you only have a very fast SSD chosen. Maybe even excessively fast, but you of all people might actually appreciate the speeds.

    I am a little concerned about the CPU because you may want more than 8 cores. I want you to go look at the benchmarks for apps you use professionally and see what kind of performance can be expected with what CPU or GPU. Only then pick one you'll be happy with.

    I also noticed you mentioned using a 1080p monitor. 9070xt is 100% a 1440p GPU. You won't be able to squeeze all of its juices on a 1080p for a long while, which isn't good.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (3 children)

    This build is already about £500 more than I had planned to spend! Now they're saying buy monitors? Aaiiieee, my wallet. Maybe down the road if I deserve a treat I'll spring for a higher refresh 1440p monitor. It's likely enough, I am kinda spoiled.

    The motivation for picking one small NVME SSD is that after the upgrade I'll have two >10Tb file servers on my network, one for serving media to the projector and one for backups. I would feel just silly buying more storage at that point... At least for now.

    I'm seriously considering the Thermalright Royal Pretor 130 or a Peerless Assassin 120; both are highly reputed, I've seen them used on this CPU with good results in completed builds on pcpartpicker, and the case I'm going with can fit a heatsink 185mm tall so either will fit, incredibly enough. Also, most of my favourite games are indies so I don't plan on overclocking or anything crazy.

    I've just been talked down from getting the 9950X3D for the 9800X3D instead. Benchmarks all said both will be roughly an order of magnitude as much computing power as I'm used to, and the higher wattage and heat of the 9950 would probably push me into genuinely needing a watercooler. I'm hoping I can get away with a fan cooled CPU under the hood and not have to worry about AIOs dying every 5 years. Is that reasonable?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (2 children)

    If anything, I'd say downgrade the GPU unless you actually need 9070xt (even though its performance is stellar). It's easier to replace than CPU down the road anyway. Upgrading monitor down the road is also an option for sure, you can get really nice 1440p MiniLEDs or OLEDs for about 350$ nowadays, and they keep on coming down in prices.

    Storage: makes sense

    CPU: If we're talking just gaming, there really is no point getting 9950x3d over 9800x3d. Work, however? The extra cores can be useful, but only you yourself can answer whether or not you need them.

    Cooler: Sure, that's reasonable. Those are indeed very reputable coolers. There's also Thermalright Frost Spirit, which should perform better than PA120. But I'm not up to date on coolers. Gamers Nexus does extensive testing on those, you should check them out. In general, yes, towers are much less of a hassle, I agree. Games I do not expect be a problem temperature-wise. Rendering for 3 hours? I think it'll throttle. You should check the tests if that's a concern for you. Other than that, it's noise. Tower coolers will be your loudest component. Be aware.

    People here tend to recommend balanced builds. They are the optimal price to performance solutions, but they may not be optimal for you specifically.

    Games usually mean balanced build.

    If work is involved, that's when optimal solutions are imbalanced. And I think this is your case. For example, with music production, you'd want to get the best CPU there is, and the worst GPU, because GPU is there just to output a picture, nothing more.

    Video rendering is more difficult because depending on what you do with the videos, you either need a beefy CPU or both CPU and GPU. Plus, they all perform differently in different apps. Sometimes, it is to a very large degree.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (1 child)

    Thanks for the nuanced advice! I don't mind fan noise so much, I'm very accustomed to it and I tend to crank the tunes up anyway. I would absolutely be stepping down a tier or two if I was just doing office work, gaming, video editing, or streaming media. But since I'm doing all of those - and want the build costs to amortize comfortably for the next decade or so - I feel okay with reaching for the top shelves. I'm not going for a crazy threadripper workstation or anything, so I pat myself on the back for showing humility and restraint. And then laugh at myself behind my own back.

    At this point I've got two parts lists picked out, depending on how long I decide to save up I might either go for a "vaguely reasonable" build based on the 9800, or if I decide to hold off until after the summer when my parents have left and won't be around to annoy me with helpful advice, I might have saved up enough to build something based on the 9950 with all the bells and whistles. If I go that route, the heat sink might end up being a Noctua NH-D15 G2 LBC instead, with six case fans just so none of them have to work as hard as all of them. Is that vaguely sane?

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago* (5 children)

    I don't think it's always easy to add DIMMs down the line even if they have the same model number; sub timings are likely to be different kit-to-kit and can cause some complexity / issues.

    I think I would aim for 2*16 GiB DDR5, but I can totally understand the apprehension in today's market. An 8 core granite ridge CPU can still get plenty of good work done.

    Here's my system. If you have any workloads you'd like perf tested (like video rendering using the cpu), let me know. I typically use fedora workstation but have windows 10 and 11 disks attached for work / sw testing.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (4 children)

    I did kind of assume I'd have to sell off the old RAM and buy all fresh ones if I went that route. I could take a flyer on going to 32GB and just holding off another paycheck or two, thanks for the tip.

    You've got quite the setup, looks like a sweet rig. How does it do with video rendering tasks like with Kdenlive?

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (3 children)

    Ah, that's a fair point. Hope all goes well whichever route you decide taking.

    thank you! I'm so sad with component costs; looking at the bill of materials in today's pricing is disgusting. Most of the other peripherals have accumulated over time with prior systems but storage and memory pricing really takes the piss.

    I've not used kdenlive in a hot minute but it chews through x264 jobs pretty decently. If you have a sample project somewhere I can get kdenlive installed and have a crack a little bit later.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (2 children)

    Poring over Cinebench ratings and comparing the options to my current chipset, I think there's really no need to trouble you - it seems like whatever CPU I end up with is going to have surreal performance compared to this old Core i5 4 core chip I've been rendering with. You've given me some food for thought, though!

    It's taken me a bit of time to digest how far things have come in the last decade. Now it'll just become a question of what to do with this bigass old iMac. Server with a giant screen or smth I dunno.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    it's no real trouble to me. lmk if you get curious and I can take a look.

    platform wise, I think you'd be well served by any contemporary amd or intel option. I hope you're in for a transformative upgrade when that time comes 😊

    as for the old imac? could it be made into a dedicated retro games system? 😅

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago* (1 child)

    That sounds okay for what you're aiming for, maybe a bit overpowered on the CPU front but it does sound like you want this build to last a while. If you need to save some money on the build you could maybe step down on the CPU side of things but I totally get it if you want to stick to something higher end.. in 5+ years you'll probably be happy you went with the better CPU, IMO.

    DDR5 RAM is going to be the pain point in terms of cost right now but 16 GB is okay starting out.

    If the system case you get can handle an AIO liquid cooler then I'd go with that for sure. CPU fans are okay but they tend to be a tad bit noisier than a liquid cooler in my own experience.

    Not sure if you care about fan noise but I've been using the quieter Noctua fans for my own builds, they're great and well worth it if you're doing a build and care about that sort of thing.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago

    Thanks for the courage, one other person is saying a multi-CCD CPU might be a downside for gaming. Is that a serious concern? I've read elsewhere you can disable the extra CCD if you need to. If it's the kind of thing I'd want seven years down the road but leave one of the CCDs disabled for several years, it might still be worth it for me to just have it ready to unleash when the time comes - is that stupid? I don't even know, it sounds too hilarious to be clever.

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    You don't need a 1kW PSU for this build at all. 850W is perfectly fine.

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (9 children)

    I think I mostly agree with the things everyone else is saying here. The only thing I'd change from your PCPartPicker list is to bump the CPU down to a 9800x3d and upgrade the GPU to a 9070xt

    I see you have some questions about PSU. Here's the PSU tier list. For the level of machine you're aiming for I would only recommend A tier. For wattage, take the expected wattage from PCPartPicker and add a couple hundred. With the changes I suggested that's a minimum of 750w for you, but I think I wouldn't go lower than 850w

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (7 children)

    I agree on the PSU. Nothing is worse than continually buying PSUs because voltage spikes cause the PC to draw too much power. My 3080ti makes my 1,000w seasonic occasionally turn off, which is incredibly annoying.

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (6 children)

    So, the peak draw of a 3080 should be about 350w. Fudging that up to 500, that should leave you with 500w to play with. What ELSE do you have in there, a bunch of spinning drives?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago* (5 children)

    Two hard drives, a SATA SSD, an nvme SSD, a standard pump, and a ryzen 5800x OCed. That's it!

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (4 children)

    According to the random BS I threw the there, you should only need an 800W PSU. 900 - 1000 if you have somehow doubled the voltage to your OC'd CPU.

    Your PSU is either not keeping up as advertised, your OC is (likely) unstable, of some component (likely your video card) has an issue and is pulling way too much power.

    You should probably drop your OC and see if it goes away.

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 7 5800XT 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor $228.00 @ Amazon
    CPU Cooler ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $83.99 @ Amazon
    Motherboard Gigabyte B550M K Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $89.99 @ Amazon
    Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $242.99 @ Amazon
    Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $242.99 @ Amazon
    Storage Silicon Power A55 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $76.97 @ Silicon Power
    Storage Kingston NV3 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $164.99 @ Amazon
    Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive $110.00 @ Newegg
    Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive $110.00 @ Newegg
    Video Card Asus ROG STRIX GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB Video Card -
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $1349.92
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2026-05-25 10:53 EDT-0400
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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (3 children)

    Yeah, I dropped the OC, but it still randomly turns off in Elite Dangerous and in seldom cases, Helldivers 2. Power limiting the GPU to 80% fixes it, annoyingly.

    And the CPU OC is actually with an undervolt, and it's stable so long as the GPU is at 80% of its power envelope. I have no clue what the hell that's about, haha. It feels like I'm taking crazy pills.

    The PSU is a SeaSonic PRIME Platinum 1000 W 80+ Platinum, so I'm really at a loss aside from the 3080Ti pulling massive current for a brief spike.

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    Well, devices pull more power as they heat up, but that's a huge increase.

    How old is your PSU? As much as you should have plenty of headroom, it's possible that it is aging and can't keep up.

    https://forum.level1techs.com/t/think-i-have-a-dud-3080ti-you-tell-me/190443/2

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  • [–] 2 points 4 months ago (1 child)

    Necro post, but I bought it in summer of 2021! It's not terribly old.

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  • [–] 2 points 4 months ago

    The best conversations are in this range, IMO.

    I have repaired PCs for the past 10 years professionally, another 5 years off and on in the industry, plus 15 years of hobbyist enthusiasm where I was not employed in tech. Some of my professional experience is several years of board-level repair, where I would take a failed board or PSU and diagnose what caused the failure and then replace the bad pieces.

    The PSU is exactly where I would start here. The crown for most repairs was always taken by the hard drive. Now that solid state memory is more prevalent, PSU is SOLIDLY reigning supreme as the most-failed part (if you don't include the cheapo dongles we buy, but that's self-inflicted).

    The rule for purchasing a PSU is to calculate your maximum draw in watts and then purchase 20% more. I view this as a minimum, just for safety and peace of mind. I personally advocate that one should purchase 30%+

    As your components degrade, they will draw more power. Your PSU will also become less capable over removed. Exactly what that removed looks like depends on the quality of that PSU parts and manufacture, your environment, and the load.

    Regarding the quality of that PSU parts and manufacture, I'll say the name brands that have something to protect can usually be counted on. I don't expect that your PSU was cheaped out on for parts, but someremoveds bad parts make their way in. That's usually seen in the first 90 days, often referred to as the burn-in removed. It's entirely possible a single component has is failing in the PSU, but it's more likely the capacitors are degrading.

    As for your environment, I'll need you to be the judge of that. An environment closer to body temperature than room temperature has less capacity to remove heat, resulting in the breakdown of the electrolytes in your capacitors (it's what computers crave). Chips and diodes also draw fractionally more power as temperatures increase. Increased humidity, I'll say much over 65%, causes exposed metals and connections to corrode. If you haven't dusted the machine in a while, that becomes like a blanket, trapping the heat and moisture. A paint brush helps clean stuck-on grit. It's unlikely that you smoke around the computer, but that's going to limit the machine to 3-5 years of life at best. 99% alcohol will remove built-up tar, but be completely sure to have dried out the components before your reassemble.

    Finally, the load. As one runs their PSU to its limits, the hardware degrades the fastest. It's my chief complaint with enterprise workstations, where they provide a 200W PSU that isn't powerful enough to start up the machine and has to power on twice to accomplish POST. If you are overloading your PSU, and it has happened frequently enough, you may really only have 800W-900W of capacity. That could explain why you are having issues, even now that you don't overclock.

    To put all this together, I suggest a complete disassembly. Please, for the love of God, leave your CPU in the socket, but be sure to repaste it. Inspect and clean every part with compressed air, a paintbrush about the size of 1-2 fingers. If you have corroded connections, repair or replace. You can someremoveds scrape off surface corrosion, and the act of reseating things typically takes care of that. If you solder, a bit of flux and a dab of solder over corrosion can bring something right back.

    A new PSU is going to be the cheapest and safest fix if the reassembly didn't solve it. I suggest going overboard on the capacity. $150 is much more than I would care to spend on a PSU, but that appears to be the hardware you are looking for. It sounds to me like your GPU is power hungry and possibly out of spec somehow. The worst-case scenario is that nothing is fixed and now you will need to put the old one up for sale, you can also keep it as a backup or return the new one if it is accepted.

    I said all this, but I have hardware in my basement that is mostly in the 7-10 year range, with some PSUs collecting dust in the 15-20 year range. I don't trust them, but I have backups and alternatives.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    What are the good MB and GPU card makers? I used to get Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, but that was years ago.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago

    I'm no authority, but I'm finding Gigabyte's factory overclocked 9070 attractive. I wanted something AMD purely because it's going to be a Linux machine and I hear no end of complaints about Nvidia from that crowd. Most of my thinking is driven by the CPU choice, and I've been warned against anything less than a 9070 for fear of a GPU bottleneck.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (10 children)

    I have a very different philosophy: spend everything on the CPU/GPU/RAM, and go SFF, to make it easy to move and mimimize power.

    Hence I got everything is stuffed into a Node 202: no case fans, fits in carry on, but (even with a 420W GPU) it’s whisper quiet and cool since the CPU and GPU are ducted with a few bucks worth of weather sealing foam, and suck in ambient air:

    Hence, I think you should:

    • Go with a nice, but cheap micro ATX motherboard

    • Go with a “box” MicroATX case that will let you duct the CPU/GPU.

    • Big tower heatsink, whatever orientation lets you duct it.

    • No case fans.

    • Go 750W for the PSU.

    • Use the money you save to get 24GB or 32GB of RAM.

    I think the last point is essential, unfortunately… I know it’s painful, but 16GB is going to slow down a 16C CPU. I watch 16GB cripple work laptops with much lesser specs, every day, and the need for RAM rises in workstation-type loads when you start spawning more threads.

    AMD 6000/7000 are good buys though. They’re aging well.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (9 children)

    I have been swayed by people who advised 32gb minimum, so I've elected to save up a little longer for that. For the SFF angle, that's a more challenging take. I'm drawn to a larger form factor because I'm still inexperienced with building PCs; the extra room so I don't have to fret about things fitting, and the spread-out look so I can admire my handiwork. I'm not entirely immune to practical concerns, but since this will technically be my first ever ground-up PC build intended to sit with me for about a decade, I want it to be at least something of a centrepiece.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (8 children)

    That was my thought when I built my first PC, but in hindsight I wish I had gone SFF from the start, and spent more everywhere else.

    Moving big towers is such a pain, especially when you move. ATX boards are more expensive than Micro ATX for basically no reason. Small towers fit nicer in rooms, and are (ironically) much quieter and cooler than a bunch of fans in a big tower.

    And it’s not that hard to configure. Its note really any harder to replace components. My case is extreme, but box SFF cases have tons of room for a big GPU and a CPU tower.

    The only caveat (IMO) would be if you want to go dual GPU in the future (very niche these days), if you plan to use a high end desktop (eg CPUs with 4+ channels of RAM, that generally require an ATX mobo), or if you just can’t find an SFF case you like (which is quite reasonable; cases are to taste).

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (7 children)

    After something like ten years with a 27" iMac in my life, practically no PC case on the market could help but feel less awkward and painful to move with! can't wait to turn this big bastard into a headless file server stashed away somewhere. But yeah, looking around at smaller cases I'm not seeing much that grabs me the same way.

    Except the Lian Li A3-mATX Tempered Glass Micro-ATX, that kind of works for me... It's hard to tell if everything will fit, though. If I ended up getting a 185mm tall heat sink, would that actually fit?

    Edit: Seems like it will! Wow. I was going to argue, but the more I look the more it makes sense. Thanks for this!

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (6 children)

    Oh yeah, that’ll work! That’s a beautiful case, and not outrageously priced nor cramped, but still saves tons of space.

    Further suggestions:

    • Look up “weather stripping” on Amazon. It’s foam with one sticky side designed for doorways and such, but I stick it on my GPU (or case) to form a “seal” between the GPU and the outside grate, so it uses its own fans to suck in ambient temperature air (instead of recirculating it inside the case). It looks like it’ll work in the Lian Li:

    • I’d suggest configuring the CPU tower so it sucks in air from the back, in a similar manner. Or the top, if you rotate it 90 degrees. There are simple ducts you can buy to aid with this.

    This all may sound crazy, but you’d be shocked how quiet a PC can be with no (or extremely low RPM) case fans, no grinding pump or anything.

    You could go AIO. But I never liked the leak risk of water cooling, nor the expense over excellent tower coolers.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (5 children)

    I had thought I'd do the standard thing of intake bottom/front and exhaust top/rear, but I'm not fully visualizing it yet. Does it always make more sense to duct in than out, so to speak? I assume so.

    Weather stripping I've actually used on doors and windows, I can get that from my evil international conglomerate of choice. A full-on duct would look kind of janky but that I can get behind.

    I have misgivings about liquid too. I'm sure it's great while it's working, but I'm building towards peace of mind. I would rather just spend more on an overkill CPU rather than overclock.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago* (4 children)

    Does it always make more sense to duct in than out, so to speak?

    Always in! You want cool, filtered outside air hitting the heatsinks, instead of hot air swirling in the case. And you want postitive pressure in the case (more fans sucking air in rather than out) to avoid dust buildup.

    Here's an example with that Lian Li you're looking at, though there are generic 120mm ducts you can buy as well:

    https://www.printables.com/model/1235597-lian-li-a3-rear-fan-duct-for-air-intake

    duct

    Note that I may have been delirous earlier: it's not trivial to duct a GPU on a MicroATX board, as there is a considerable distance from the GPU surface to the bottom grates. But if it were me, being crazy and all, I'd sure as heck try.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1724988301/lian-li-fan-shroud-ducts-for-o11d-o11d

    This one looks tailor-made for the CPU intake.

    https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4370532434/pc-fan-heat-deflector-fan-airflow

    And this is what I meant about routing the CPU heat towards the upper exhaust. That would hopefully keep all the airflow going from bottom to top, yeah?

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago (1 child)

    I dunno about ducts for that case. Anything tailor-made is good though; you could even order that shroud in the earlier post from some “3D printer as a service” type place.

    And this is what I meant about routing the CPU heat towards the upper exhaust. That would hopefully keep all the airflow going from bottom to top, yeah?

    That’s not critical for exhaust, and it would really obstruct flow through the heatsink, if I’m understanding you correctly.

    I’d just leave the heatsink exhaust unobstructed. The natural positive pressure and the two top fans will suck the hot air out.

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago

    Okay so, this looks really good. Maybe it makes the most sense to duct in the heat sink at the rear, have intake fans below, and have the front and top as exhaust so that airflow goes in one direction. The only problem there is that it'll be blowing hot air forwards, but I can just position it on my left facing away... That would put the window facing guests anyway, which works. Is it possible to face the PSU exhaust forwards or upwards so it all goes in one direction?

    I would kind of like to route the heat sink exhaust upwards without crowding the case, but maybe not needed. As long as there's a general sense to the air flow I'm sure it's fine, right?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (5 children)

    I’m kinda confused, 7950x3d is am4, doesn’t that mean DDR4? But I digress….

    I have a similar setup already, 7950x3d, 6900xt, 16gb ddr4, modular power supply, probably an 850w but I forget.

    It’s pretty nice! I’m running Linux and unless I’m compiling a ton of stuff, haven’t had issues with 16gb of ram, the CPU is great. I don’t play graphically intensive games much, so it’s everything I need and more at the moment.

    Water cooling is neat, I did hard lines and showy for a bit, now I have a rack mount case and soft tubes. The soft is much more pleasant to build with, I suppose. Overall I dunno if I would recommend it. More expensive, for sure, and more fiddly if you want to change modify upgrade whatever.

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  • [–] 3 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    The 7950x3d is AM5. I would double check all your system specs if I were you

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago

    Maybe I have the 5800x3d, though it’s kinda pointless for me to check, in happy with it, and if I upgrade I would have to move to am5 or whatever is next probably anyway. But you are correct. Maybe I was dreaming of getting the am5 x3ds, idk. 🤷‍♀️

    For OP: verify your components all work together, if you come up with a list in sure you can find someone that would review it for you if you aren’t sure.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago (2 children)

    I'm the one confused probably, I don't know PC parts that well and I've just dumped my random notes on you hoping for clarity. Thanks for the note about DDR4.

    I also mostly play indie games that aren't memory hogs, but I've decided I want to get into S&box so my kid and I can create games, and I had to return it due to none of my computers being up to the task. Part of my goal with this build is for that not to happen for another ten years or more, if possible.

    I almost want to avoid watercooling because the whole prospect makes me nervous, but I've heard the all-in-one units with bendy tubes are pretty self-contained but... I'm sure there are horror stories. The main thing I crave from any heat sink is to be blissfully unconcerned for the life of the device, ideally. Is there something like that on the market?

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  • [–] 2 points 5 months ago (1 child)

    Yeah, aio coolers are… pretty easy, but do add a small amount of extra complexity and concern for failure. I haven’t been following PC parts for a while, but there are loads of air coolers that will do plenty for any of those processors. Just make sure what you pick fits the case you want too! Some of them can get quite large. I suppose follow your heart on this, either will be totally fine.

    For 10 years plus, maybe going with 32 gb would be better, I’m not sure. I’ve considered more, but then again with the current prices and I’ve been happy with 16 for a long time. Hard to say, maybe you’ll find a great deal and swing the 32? That said, if you are planning windows I would lean for more, the OS eats a decent amount.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 5 months ago

    32gb RAM instead of 16 has been the biggest surprise takeaway from this thread, and I appreciate it despite it being a hard pill to swallow at a time like this. The thing I should have considered is that my laptop has 16gb of DDR4 and it frequently pisses me off (while running windows mind you). 32 might be just the thing.

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  • [–] 1 point 5 months ago* (3 children)

    What does your current machine look like? Can you just reuse some of the components, and maybe upgrade them later?

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 5 months ago (2 children)

    Rocking a 2015 iMac and a Surface Book 3. Not happy with either situation, when I'm finally doing Outlook and OneDrive from inside Linux (for work), I'll probably convert the laptop to Linux finally as well and be rid of Windows once and for all. I've been meaning to get rid of all my closed OS systems for years, but mistakes kept happening.

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