Researching work benches will often show many examples of the sliding deadman. I opted not to put one on my bench because I valued drawer space more.

On the rare occasion when I need to support a piece from the bottom I'll just use a clamp in expansion mode.

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[–] 5 points 11 months ago (2 children)

Well I'm glad someone uses clamps in expansion mode. I never have.
Is your benchtop a benchtop on top of a benchtop?
Also, excellent job on the seat carve. How did you do it? I've gone at mine with a grinder and a palm sander and... it's difficult to get good results.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 11 months ago

    I use an inshave (aka scorp), compass plane, curved scrapers, and sandpaper for my seats. It's laborious! Just started on another tonight and of course it has a few stubborn spots.

    Good question about the bench. It's a 5" pine top but it dried funny, curving inward at the top. So I inlaid a maple strip to get the front back to square.

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  • [–] 2 points 11 months ago

    I find those squeeze clamps are such that when turned around in spread mode, the minimum clearance is like 6 or 8 inches because the jaws are so bulky, and they nearly never fit in where I need to, say, force a very tight mortise and tenoned frame apart.

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  • [–] 4 points 11 months ago

    my wife always laughs at my clamps... but its things like this that make me yell

    Hey Sweety, check this out!

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  • [–] 1 point 11 months ago (1 child)

    Good for you I guess, but I value the space under my bench and so I would never put drawers there. The bench is for clamping things to, and often that means taking the clamp apart and reassembling with half on each side.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago)

    For sure, clamps are important! There's a gap between the top of the cabinet and the underside of the bench.

    I will admit though that's it's sometimes necessary to position the clamp with the bar extending below the surface - in that case not having drawers would be best 👍

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