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Swapping brakes and levers (post.lurk.org)
submitted 1 year ago by to c/bicycles@lemmy.ca
6 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

Swapping brakes and levers@bicyclesI have a randonneur bike from the 1980ies which still has many of the original parts. As far as i can tell it still has the original calipers and brake levers (shimano 600 ex or something similar, with cel 60 levers that go perpendicular in front of the handlebar; the caliper just says dia compe, it might be a dia compe gran compe 400). The brake shoes have been changed of course, but still the brakes are not very good. Trying to adjust the bowden cables didn't change much.I'd like to take the bike for a tour across the alps, and am trying to figure out how to improve the brakes for it to feel safe. Does it make sense to change them completely, or should they still do their job well if set up correctly? If they should be changed, what do I need to consider when changing them? Since they are screwed onto the handlebar, would any modern break lever fit? What kind of brake should I get for a good improvement in brake strength if I don't want to go for disc brakes?#cycling #bicycles #bicycling

Photo of a person changing bar tape on a bicycle. In the center of the image there's the bike's handlebar, on one side the bar tape is removed and on the other side is has a leopard pattern in white and brown. Brake levers are exposed and brown brake cables go along the bike frame. Some leftover tape is draped on the front tire tire, and some of it is lying on the floor next to open cardboard boxes on wooden panels

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[–] 6 points 1 year ago (1 child)

@computersandblues @bicycles Sidepulls got a lot better in the late 1990s with the advent of dual-pivot brakes. You can also get beefier brakes so that less of your braking force goes into bending the brake arms.Your brake levers are not screwed onto the handlebar. They have a band clamp holding them in place. Levers are interchangeable.You couldn’t put disc brakes on this bike even if you wanted to, short of breaking out a welding torch to modify the frame.These brakes aren’t cheap, but they’d probably work for you. velo-orange.com/collections/br

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    • [–] 4 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    @computersandblues @bicycles Without knowing excactly, i would also check you wheels/ rims. How does the rim look on the break surface? Are the wear indicator worn off? Are they slick and flat, or started to curve slightly inwards? Any small cracks in the alumunium? You could also change the levers for some with more "traction"/movement. Or experiment with a "problemsolver" component, that can gear up your pull. But it could also turns out to be waste of time and money....

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  • [–] 1 point 1 year ago

    I came here to say this - those are old steel rims, and they notoriously break a spoke when you don’t want them to. Especially traversing the alps you don’t want a spike to break without a workshop around. They may be in good condition, then there shouldn’t be a problem at all, but you should definitely check them.

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    • [–] 3 points 1 year ago*

    If it’s been ridden with bad pads for a while, I’d pay close attention to the braking surface. Pick up some rim brake cleaner and go to town on the rims. Also make sure that the toe-in of the pads is adjusted properly, so that you’re using the entire pad surface and not just a corner.

    And definitely pack an extra set of pads for a long tour with big descents.

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    [–] 2 points 1 year ago

    That's some interesting brake cable routing going on there...

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