There's about 1.5cm deadzone in my throttle.

I have taken it to 2 mechanics, they opened it up and lubricated stuff, but it didn't help.

The service manual expects a dual-cable setup, but the previous owner replaced it with this.

Do I tighten it at the throttle body? Do I buy a second throttle cable and run it? A mechanic recommended against that because it could catch on things.

A motorcycle throttle.  There is 1 cable coming out instead of 2

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[–] 10 points 5 hours ago (2 children)

For what it's worth that is the dinkiest most Chineseium throttle assembly I have ever seen in my life. It looks even worse than the one that came on my Orion RXB.

Your deadzone is most likely caused by too much slack in the cable. If I were you I would deposit that throttle assembly directly in the trash and replace it with an OEM or appropriate OEM equivalent one. Kit-bashing a single cable throttle on a throttle body designed for a dual cable is not a good idea, primarily because the second cable is explicitly a safety feature. Its function is to allow you to positively force the throttle closed in the event of a return spring failure or any other stickage kind of situation. You can take my word for it on this one, you do not want to be in an unexpected throttle open failure situation on your 142 horsepower sportbike.

There should be no risk of the second cable "catching" on things. As configured from the factory it runs along the same path as the existing throttle cable, immediately next to it. If it's going to "catch" on anything, so is the throttle cable you already have. From stock they were probably even tied together at a couple of points with those weird OEM zip tie things. Part two of my advice therefore is to fire your mechanic.

Your opener cable is part number 54012-0601 and your closer cable is 54012-0602. (via) Your handlebar throttle assembly is a combination of 46019-0020 (the grip part) and 32099-0735 (the casing).

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  • To expand on this:

    Don't go back to that second mechanic. That is absolutely not going to be an issue on a z1000 of any year. Hearing a mechanic say something like that, brings into question their experience.

    Measure the diameter of the handlebars and make sure those aren't aftermarket as well, if the previous owner was dumb enough to replace a dual throttle cable assembly with a cheap chinesium single pull, makes me wonder what other shit they cheaped out on.

    That bottom set screw on the throttle assembly is waaaaaaay out, so that definitely doesn't fit.

    Also check that the throttle body isn't gummed up with a bunch of lube, spray it down with brake cleaner if is, re lube with a couple drops at each pivot of triflow or similar lubricant. Too much lube will attract dirt and gum up the throttle, and a sticky throttle on a crotch rocket, with only a single pull cable, is a great way to become a meat crayon.

    Lastly,

    https://www.revzilla.com/oem/kawasaki/2013-kawasaki-z1000/throttle

    I'm pretty sure the above blow apart diag should help you visualize what others in this thread are talking about and show you what parts you'll need.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 hours ago

    I can't imagine two mechanics both missing the obvious, but sure, why not. Assuming the cable is tightened already as far as it will go, then it is either the chinesium throttle housing, or your cable is worn out. If it was my Z1000, that cable would be stretched and busted for sure

    I don't see the need to run a return throttle cable, as long as you keep the entire throttle assembly clean and lubed. The return cable is to close the throttle butterfly even in situations where some dust or dirt is gumming up the works. Unintended acceleration is great when you're ready to donate your organs.

    Nice bike. The Z1000 is a beast

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  • [–] 2 points 4 hours ago

    Just replace it with a stock setup. Sometimes aftermarket parts do more harm than good.

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