Not anymore. Not with hybrid offloading, where the GPU handles dense tensors and the CPU only runs the sparse MoEs. I'm running a 300B model on a single 3090, and its faster than I can read.
You just need to use the right framework, and the right model.
I'd suggest trying ik_llama.cpp and a MoE like one of these: https://huggingface.co/models?other=ik_llama.cpp&sort=modified&search=35B
And speculative decoding like DFlash or MTP (which you can also get specific models for).
EDIT: Wrong link.