I was printing some ABS on my modified Anycubic I3 Mega overnight, when I awoke to this horror of a destroyed glass print bed...

Now the question remains, how to actually fix this? One part is still firmly attached to the Bed and I fear this may destroy the Bed even more.

And I obviously need a new Print bed, but I can't find the exact replacement, so should I even get a replacement Ultrabase? I saw that there are magnetic PEI beds available, but I am unsure if it is worth the 80-100€ for this.

Edit: Since the glass is glued to the 1.5mm aluminium heater PCB (and I already had to resolder the broken off wires once) I was looking at complete replacements at first, which why the price is relatively high

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[–] 13 points 1 year ago* (4 children)

PEI bed are 20€, not 100€.
Just buy a compatible one on amazon or elsewhere.
You just need to have the bed size somewhat correct, and the magnetic base have a sticky surface that will adhere on whatever is below your glass bed (usually some metal structure to hold the glass)

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 1 year ago (3 children)

    Well I don't have any way to mount the PEI bed? This is a glas bed with the heater glued to it, and the mounting screws are integrated into the heater. So I would need to find a way to either seperate the glass from the heating PCB or somhow mount the new bed on top of the exisiting one.

    Unless there are cheaper compatbile option I did not find. It is quite hard to find something for this specific printer

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  • [–] 9 points 1 year ago (2 children)

    That's what they are saying. Buy a PEI plate with a magnetic backing, remove the rest of the abs from your glass build plate and stick the magnetic pad on it. Then the pei goes on top.

    I did this as an upgrade to my own printer.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 1 year ago (1 child)

    That sounds like an option. It looks like the aliminum heater is quite thin, I estimate 1-1.5mm, so unlikely to be a good suface to mount a flexible sheet to?

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  • [–] 4 points 1 year ago

    You just stick the magnetic backing to the existing glass plate for flatness and rigidity. You might have to bump the heated temp 1 or 2 degrees to compensate for the additional thickness, and you may lose a couple of mm/s of print speed at the high end due to the additional weight. That said, it is a very cheap and easy to execute option.

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