Tuta is much better than proton, but I'm finding Germany to be more than a bit sus lately, too.

I need to find a provider in Iceland or something, where there's still a bit of respect for actual people.

My issue with Protonmail is that, last I checked years ago, I couldn't set up email forwarding or a local client without paying for an upgrade. So there's a soft form of lock-in to prevent changing providers.