More apprentice marks… smdh

So I’m back to machining, if you haven’t seen the suppressor post. Life and other emergency projects got in the way.

The slide fits and racks well. I fucked up a cut so there’s quite a bit of a gap. I need to machine some reference faces and then flip the part to finish it.

I’m not focused on surface finish right now, only proving that a desktop machine is fully capable of making a standard pistol slide that functions, without even having to use all the almost-vapor ware features of the kickstarter machines everyone is drooling over these days. I would way rather have a machine that can upgrade its own rigidity and power than be locked into an ecosystem a la bambu. These are the ender 3s of home gamer CNC’s. In my opinion, we don’t have the Vorons of the hobby CNC space yet, and the open source side is not developed enough yet to warrant the community’s investment into the closed ecosystem bambu analogues.

I want to do one more rigidity upgrade, then I’ll design a fully DIY pistol using only a desktop machine and small heat treat oven that is optimized around the few limitations of these machines (chamber faces tend to have sharp corners with no radius, etc). It’ll be 9mm.

I also have a design to test for DIY 9mm shells and bullets. Just need the time.

I still have a LOT more planned. Fully diy duty quality pistols and rifles are my end game.

Issue #35 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the best 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we review a plethora of new suppressors, check out a detent delay UMP, discuss DMCAs on pistol FRTs and admire a new 3D2A pimp cane. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/p/issue-35-suppressor-smorgasbord-plisskens

I'm having a problem with the trigger on my Modelo Polytactico. I can't seem to get it to travel far enough to allow the hammer to release. Without the trigger installed the hammer can travel just fine, exactly as intended. With the trigger installed (but without the rear fully bolted together) moving the hammer needs the trigger assembly to pivot out of the way (which isn't possible with the gun fully assembled). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I bought all the necessary parts required to complete a full gen 5 17 build from PY2A, got the kit off the site and everything, the slide simply wont rack backward onto the frame unless the gen 3 locking block (that was one of the requirements)is absent. What could the issue be? The slide isnt oem, but it is indeed gen 5 all throughout.

Issue #34 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the best 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we dive into the ATF's surrender, California's Polymaker lawsuit, a DIY Glock reset trigger, a dual Bizon mag, SMP5K mods and more. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/p/issue-34-atf-surrenders-glock-reset

We're back with mega-issue #33 of the Guncad Digest! This newsletter rounds up the best 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we cover the Urutau Mk2 launch, the fully DIY 9x23mm Stark cartridge, FTN.6 Updates and a magazine-fed lever action AR. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/p/issue-33-urutau-mk2-9x23-stark-ftn61

Anyone have experience with the model? Good/bad/ugly?

I am exploring ways to alter the headspacing of my Urutau upper/barrel. The cartridge sits too shallowly in the upper, not flush as the documentation describes. The instructions advise to purchase a new barrel in order to rectify headspacing issues, but I feel that's a little extreme. For context, I purchased a barrel from MAF instead of trying to ECM one. My instinct is to sand down the mounting recess of the upper in order to bring the cartridge flush with the interior wall, but there is already scant material in that area. I'm not sure how necessary the material thickness is. Would it be better to sand down the metal of the barrel instead? I've included a picture of the upper barrel recess. I will say, this area did not print well, and the supports were difficult to remove.

Issue #32 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the best and most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

The M1337 DIY Gatling gun now shoots twice as fast with an orbital crank! We cover this plus DIY FMDA rails, a super safe 3DP90, and the biggest 2A victory ever for 3D2A. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/p/issue-32-m1337-orbital-crank-diy

Just wanted to share my 43x printed in ht pla pro on my flashforge creator 5 pro. I it took a bit of calibration to get the ht pla pro to print cleanly. At least now I have a base filament profile for this filament moving forward. I used petg as a support interface.
Frame is from aa13. By far my favorite 43x frame out there with the sct free being 2nd. Also by aa13 firearms. I've left this guy in my car with temps hitting mid 90's outside. So far so good.

I found these Tavor kits in the link below and would love to put one of these together now that the tax stamp is 0$(15-inch barrels). The only problem is the frame is destroyed and unrepairable. I was thinking about trying to take another civilian one I have access to apart, but I don't have a 3d scanner or know what I would have to change to make the frame work as a printed part, or alternatively, know anyone who could or would machine it for me legally. It is a military model, so I do believe it has full-auto parts and potentially different geometry. Also, after further looking into this rifle system, I believe it's a prime candidate for a frt design using the trigger bar to harness recoil energy on the rearward motion of the bolt, since the bar's travel direction is inverted to the trigger pull direction and its proximity to the rear bolt face. I will be designing a frt to work with this system regardless of whether or not I can print the frame, if anyone is interested in beta testing that design when available as well. TLDR: Do you think I could print the receiver for this firearm in something like a Sarayatech PPA-CF? And if so, what changes would have to be made/ where can I find accurate STL files for a niche rifle like this?

https://centerfiresystems.com/products/iwi-tavor-21-ctar-21-5-56x45mm-nato-15-barrel-parts-kit

So I’m working on the db922 conversion and I have a 5 1/2 barrel insert from chazzel and I’m using the cmmg front trunnion converter but how do I epoxy and how far and is my barrel to short because it only sticks out about 2 1/2 inches out the front

Whilst bored the Meme of the rabbit pointing to his pocket watch came to mind and I couldn't believe no one had had the idea of making a cap for the DMB D.R.U.M. with a clock face on it. I have rectified this travesty of oversights albeit rather sloppily. I just wanted some input as to whether or not i should add clock arms. If so what time should they point to? (other than 4:20 that's an obvious solution I'm going to include)

Is there a way to download everything in the GunCad Index in one go? I've got a shiny new drive that needs filling

I'm working on a Heatshield for the py2a space trench receiver and the middle has ample real estate for personalization. I'm taking suggestions for stuff to put on there. Its practically ready to sail I just gotta have a test example ordered to make sure everything fits on the barrel mounts and such. If this is something that interests you expect a release in two weeks or so. With no powder coat added it comes to $60 in 3.2mm aluminum and $82 with powder coat so its quite the investment but this is something I've always wanted. I'll be including a step so you can add and do what you want cause I'm sure someone's gonna see this and think they can do much better. Im down to one of these two versions. The Mars congressional republic navy from the expanse or the Red Ribbon Army from Dragon ball

Issue #30 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we check out new DIY Mac uppers, review a printable Glock trigger housing, investigate Polymaker's new HT-PLA Pro and glance carefully at DIY smokeless powder. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/

I bought a Trigger Kicker from Hoffman Tactical. I bought it to financially support (in a small way) Tim's legal defense.

I have no intention of ever using it.

FRTs are cool. And the selectable FRTs are AMAZING. Non-selectable has its place, I'm sure, but it probably isn't in my collection.

I will continue to use homemade Super Safeties in my AR compatible builds. If/when the litigation concludes and Tim is able to sell the Super Safety again, he'll be getting my money.

Has anyone else bought the Trigger Kicker with no intention of using it?

https://midstatefirearms.com/?s=breek+arms&post_type=product

Otx also has clones sold there too. This is from the breek arms email newsletter. It doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere else yet.

This version greatly increases reliability and decreases the severity of OOB detonations (Still a beta). It also includes a 2-position and a 3-position version. DIY metal version coming soonish.

https://odysee.com/@ToadLicker556:d/The-Twitch-V3.0-Beta:4

Just got done rough fitting the rails the bolt ride on for a 2077 build after getting an intact barrel cetme kit. I'd previously bought a cetme kit with no barrel, had it mostly fitted to the rails but couldn't go any further cause I didn't have a good enough drill press to handle the barrel pin notch so I stopped there. The old kit also had too much material removed in the mag well cut but this second kit fits the recess in the printed receiver as if made for each other. Now just to order the weldless strut items and I think I should be able to finish up with what I already have. It's already lined up well enough it can cycle into battery with no receiver pins if you don't flex it.

if for whatever reason you want to make your own smokeless powder propellant instead of using the hilti loophole, i wrote a guide on making it from scratch. if you're careful, follow all of the instructions in it and just have common sense, you won't get hurt. this is fully legal in the us so i'm not violating any rules

here's the gitlab link (i couldn't upload to odysee because of opsec reasons): https://gitlab.com/disposableaccount/double-based-powder

Issue #29 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we celebrate the .22LR beltfed entering open beta, review an upcoming DIY Tommy gun, check out new pistols from BLC and share a Glock survey. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/

I don't know what I am doing wrong. I dryed out the pa6-cf filament for the recomended time in a Sunlu E2 dryer, kept it dry feeding it to a P1S printer with a hardened steel hotend, used the 300BLKFDE PA6-CF Settings exactly, and YET my prints still come out looking like a rough stringy mess. I really don't know what else to do, so if anyone else has gotten past this issue, please let me know how to get better prints.