cross-posted from: https://lemmus.org/post/26133267

Be careful if you attempt this, you’re working with 240v electronics.

A few months ago I noticed my EVSE started buzzing really loudly every time I would plug in to charge. A few days after that it stopped charging entirely. It’s a Clippercreek, that is 8+ years old, I can’t complain too much but I can’t exactly afford $300-ish for a replacement, so I decided to try to replace the relay myself.

I opened it up and found that the big problem with doing this is that the relay has 6 large contact studs that are all soldered into the circuit board. I can only heat one up with a soldering iron at a time, and the one cannot pull out because the other five are still holding the relay onto the board.

So, I got a hacksaw blade and slid it behind the relay and cut off each leg one by one. You have to be very careful doing this to avoid cutting anything else, but I did get them all cut off without much damage to any of the other circuitry. After that I can melt the solder and remove each stud one by one.

I bought the exact brand/model relay for $40 off Amazon. Probably could have got it cheaper elsewhere if I was willing to wait.

The next problem is that all those holes in the circuit board are full of solder that block the new relay from going in. I found that there is such a thing as “desoldering wick” which I used to absorb the melted solder out one by one. Then the new relay could be inserted and the six studs soldered in one by one.

And it works!

Hi. I have a Kia Niro. I do the maintenance on it. Here are some part numbers and other info that's useful for that maintenance. I'm posting here so I can find my notes for next time. 😅

• oil:
  • oil filter: 26300-35505
  • oil viscosity: 0W-16 (hybrid cars)
  • oil capacity: 3.8 liters
  • oil filter torque: 11.8Nm to 15.7Nm
  • drain plug gasket: 21513-23001
  • drain plug socket: 17mm
  • drain plug torque: 34.3Nm to 44.1Nm
• tires:
  • size: 205/60R16 (92 S, T, or H) (in that order, first available)
  • lug nut torque: 115Nm
  • lug nut socket: 21mm
• other:
  • windshield washer fluid: 3.7 liters
  • engine (and inverter?) coolant: UM020 CH263
  • engine air filter: 28113-AT100

Things that have not worked (so far):

Youtube video recommended a specific bike lubricant but that didn't work.

I read hitting it with a hammer could help knock some of the rust loose but so far nada.

How it got stuck: I got doored pretty bad a few months before getting pregnant several years ago and basically stopped riding completely afterwards bc drivers are such assholes in the city where I live.

My stbx always chastised me for storing it in the house, and after we moved together the last time in 2021, he started making me keep it outside under a tarp.

Now he's gone and it's my only means of transportation, but the lock is stuck like a yoke around the neck.

I can feel something turning inside after a half revolution when I try to unlock it with a key, but I can't even remember if it's supposed to make a full revolution and is getting stuck halfway or if that's as far as it's supposed to turn (as in, is the rust is inside the barrel or the keyhole?).

Any other tips or ideas to get it open?

My dad said he thinks worst case scenario we can just cut it off, but it's a kryptonite lock and I thought they were supposed to be impossible to cut?