So this requires some explanation. Basically, I figured that I could get a "XPan" like panorama experience with my Lubitel 2 by putting a mask in it blocking the top and bottom of the normally square frame. Doing this gives you roughly double the shots on a single roll, in XPan format.

So I started cutting paper, and put this mask behind the normal film mask (on the inside of the camera). And another one in the viewfinder.

The positives:

• The mask worked well enough
• Using each number and large "dot" on the backing paper to align did work
• I got some neat images

The issues:

• Below f/11 the focus seems screwed, I assume that my modifications slightly pushed the film away. Especially on the right side of the frame
• On one side I got a light leak (because I put tape there :3) on the other there's a ghost of the tape visible
• My lubitel 2 is growing a whole fungus metropolis, which ruined quite a few shots with extreme haze.

Overall a good experience tho, here are some more neat shots:

And the most messed up shot, after increasing the contrast (because it's at f/5.6 in direct light):

This is an enlarged scan of the full negative, which looks like this:

It was shot in manual, f/22 and shutterspeed 1/2000th, the darkest settings I could get. I didn't have any filter but it was quite a wide angle shot and I covered the lens after and before shooting. This photo is exactly the same scene, but exposed for the foreground:

The shape of the eclipsed sun can be seen here as well, though slightly darker than the surrounding sun star and sky. This confused me, but apparently this is called Solarization and is common in film.

Anyway, this was my first roll of Pan F, and I love this stuff. I didn't expect these photos to really be useful at all, but the latitude and detail of this film is absolutely crazy

I recently converted a cheap, partially broken, E-PL1 to be full spectrum sensitive by removing the filter that cuts UV/IR light. Despite this being a relatively cheap and old camera, the 12-ish megapixels combined with the razor sharp 25mm (50mm full-frame equivalent) honestly delivers plenty of detail.

Made using an IR converted Olympus E-PL1, OM System 25mm f/1.8 II lens, and a 720nm IR filter.

Settings: f/8, 1/400s, iso 200. In order to get these results, I had to do some edits. SOOC it looks like this (with custom whitebalance):

So, uhhh, yeah. Why process Phoenix II in black and white? Well, let's call it a happy little accident. The lab messed up and thought that it was black and white film. After the initial confusion, I was very surprised that there were somehow photos here. After finding out what happened the lab did a bit more to it, presumably to make sure that it remains stable.

Too bad I didn't get to see what Phoenix II actually looks like, but honestly this experiment was nonetheless very interesting. Apparently when you process it as black and white film, you basically get Phoenix but in black and white.

My second attempt with Harman Phoenix 200, this time I metered most shots around 125 or 100 iso, which worked quite a bit better. Though I still had more under than overexposed shots.

Also, I'm very much a telelens person. This was another instance of me forcing myself to shoot with the wide-angle prime. I would've loved to see the 50mm version of this shot

My first time shooting a film stock with an insane iso like this, previously I hadn't gone for anything higher than iso 400 and mostly colour. I also pushed myself a bit out of my comfort zone with the 28mm, as I rarely feel comfortable shooting below 50mm.

Somehow this was the only shot of the roll that seemed properly exposed, with many others mildly or wildly underexposed. I've since checked the lightmeter of my XG9 against other references at 3200 iso (or rather 1600 iso -1 stop because the XG9 doesn't support 3200 iso). But unless I push it way harder than I'd ever do irl, I see no fault there. Edge markings and this shot are also fine, and the camera has previously behaved normally, so it was probably just a skill issue somehow.

Probably taken with the 50mm prime, but maybe with the 28mm. Scanned using my Olympus EM-5 Mk II with the Olympus 14-42mm pancake zoom. Processed in Darktable.

This film was very hard to scan, because there's absolutely no reference. Is the water/sky too cyan? Idk. But I like the colours in this image.

I'm amazed at how this ended up. Most of the other low-light shots with this camera turned out as a complete blurry mess. It's not sharp by any means, but with the conditions and a moving carousel it went quite well.

Scanned by hand using my Olympus EM-5 Mark II in the sensor-shift super resolution mode. Slightly downsampled because of the image size limit.

Image shot at Liquicity Festival

Tried my hand on a fair bit of editing, which I usually don't do that much. Hopefully it isn't too over the top :3

So as it turns out, photographing moving cars while manually focusing and with relatively little light in the shade is quite hard. This one was quite sharp, but some others failed a bit more

Location is the Twente Rally in the east of the Netherlands