Yeah that’s a bit extreme. I think I spent a total of $15 for this project, but I also already had the majority of my tools. Having access to a CNC also made my life quite a bit easier.

Not really once it’s finished. If anything, it might make it harder to saturate with finish.

If I had some teak, I’d give it a shot. In the meantime I’ll provide updates once I start playing with walnut, ebony and rosewood.

As mentioned in a previous comment, I’m running a full batch right now. I don’t have anything with finish on it, but there is a proof of concept buried in this thread somewhere.

Agreed. Stainless lasts forever, but with proper care you should be able to keep these ones around for decades. Just stick to handwashing and throw on a new coat of mineral oil every year or so.

I’m starting with flame and birdseye maple, but I’ve got some walnut, ebony, and rosewood that I’m planning to process next.

Absolutely! I’m running a batch right now, so I don’t have anything that’s been finished. Here’s the proof of concept.

Drew up a prototype and worked backwards.

Probably an hour or two of head scratching.

AJJ was my intro as well.

I’ll still occasionally pull out a Song Dedicated to the Memory of Stormy the Rabbit at open mics

Pretty much anything by the taxpayers. Namely, Big Delusion Factory.

Also have to shout out Mischief Brew, Songs From Under the Sink.

Oh and also Rogue Taxidermy.

And of course Satan, Sex and No Regrets.

Might be basic shit, but those are my gotos to initiate the uninformed

Hearing this tune broken down to its basics gives me chills. Thank you so much for sharing

Tools are just tools. The “right” ones will make your work quick, but you can always make the “wrong” ones work if you’re patient and clever.

Start by getting it home and acclimating.

Let it sit in the environment you plan on working it for a minimum of 2 weeks (I’d suggest 6+ if you can swing it.)

Remove the bark first, if you plan on storing it inside. If not, debark it after your acclimation period.

Run it through a bandsaw to sort of square an edge, but beware that a round log will spin if you’re not careful. A simple clamping sled can offer a bit of peace of mind. Trim off your exposed end grain to help prevent splitting.

This is where you’d bake it, if you have access to a kiln.

Keep in mind that as you cut/cook your workpieces you’ll release some internal stress grown into the tree. Oversize your cuts and be prepared for your boards to cup/curl.

Sneak up on your final dimensions and don’t be afraid to let things sit if it still seems too wet.

And most importantly, share your progress with the community so we can enjoy the adventure too 😉

Just relax and put this in your mouth

Varathane is decent. I tend to prefer water based stains, but I’m also finishing guitars which usually don’t feature as much end grain.

Checking for left over finish/glue depends on what they had on previously. Many wood glues glow under UV. Sometimes you can wet out the area with naphtha and see residue. Deep penetrating stains are a different beast though and your best bet, as suggested by others, may be to go with a paint rather than a dye.