Milling with the optic in there is a choice lol /s Looks good and glad to see you're back to this project.

I've had two OOBDs early on in the build process. Both blew the Urutau in half, with the force going down and left.

The problem is in the original bolt face itself. It can rotate after the first few shots, and will trap the firing pin forward, so that the next round picked up from the magazine is struck by that extended firing pin before it can be pushed into the breech.

My fix was to purchase the metal bolt carrier group from Urutauparts.com, and it does work well.

I have an all-new issue: runaways. There's a problem, possibly with head spacing, and I can't figure out what to change in order to stop the Urutau from firing an entire magazine after the first trigger pull. It will continue to fire without the trigger, with the hammer not moving at all. The lightweight firing pin keeps slamming forward on its own, firing the next round and cycling the action over and over.

I have increased the strength of the firing pin spring, but that didn't help. I can obtain lighter springs for the two guide rods, and reduce the forward force that way. But after that, if the Urutau keeps mag-dumping, I'm going to abandon the whole thing.

"I bought all the necessary parts required to complete a full gen 5 " you need a g19/gen5 locking block

First time I've heard of anyone having this issue, or anything similar. My 1st guess would be support material or something like that in the trigger housing.

If your recoil spring happens to deflect off the recess cut in the barrel it's supposed to rest on that can cause the slide to get stuck when you try racking it back after reassembly . Just to make sure I'm on your page are you having trouble getting slide completely on the lower? Is it going on the lower but not cycling back? Is it cycling back and getting stuck on the slide rebound forward when you let go of it with your hand? Be as specific as possible. You said your sure it's gen 5 slide. It could be an issue of mismatched generations cause most of the printed lowers are designed with gen3 parts in mind. Time to go hang out at the gun store or whatever sporting goods store that has the best ammo deals and make friends with someone that also has a 9mm Glock (anything but g43) and start switching out one part at a time until you get a functioning firearm.

Without the locking block, everything is perfect, with the exception that the damn thing doesn't function. Bad file or bad parts?

the captain America was 1:7 and there is a mandrel to use for making your own barrels in one of the releases, if you can't find it DM me and ill send it to you.

i got something special

The KFC-25 guide has been released on Odysee, though due to technical reasons the Index isn't listing it right now. Here's the direct link: https://odysee.com/@WEAPONS_OF_MASS_INSTRUCTION:0/KFC-25-Documentation---Beta-v0.1:9

The Vectorite smokeless hasn't been released yet, but I expect it will soon.

Always a good read. Anyone know what “vectorite vs505” or “kfc-25” primer compounds referenced in the 9x23 stark documentation are?

I would love to get one, but every time I try they're either sold out, or the site doesn't work for me

It's super old but I will say this about it - it's the only AR lower design I'm aware of that uses fully printed parts to successfully reinforce the stress points. And I still think that's pretty cool.

If you really want a third pin for whatever reason, the Bi-Poly has an NFA variant. Other than that: Defiance, SL-15, UBAR, etc.

https://guncadindex.com/search?query=tag%3Aar-15+tag%3Agun+time%3Ayear+sort%3Apopular

Saw it was one of the few with an NFA option. What's the gold standard in drivers these days?

It's quite a bit old at this point and is outmoded by basically everything released since. If you're looking for an actual driver you should use something newer, but it'll get the job done if you really need it to.

This is V1.1, the current release on the Gatalog.

Is this for the current urutau in beta or the og version?

It fully seats into the throat, however the headspace is such that the cartridge is recessed in the receiver instead of flush. Normally, I would just hog some of the receiver material out of the throat, but the documentation cautions against this and suggests to return the barrel. The print quality feels a little iffy to me, and I can't imagine sanding the bit I need is going to compromise the already skinny receiver.

If it's not fully seating into the throat maybe you'd can turn a few tenths of a mm off the barrel face the bolt buttts up too if you know someone with a lathe. That's how I fixed the head spacing on my sudy23 to avoid altering the antique bolt face despite the fact everyone recommends shaving the bolt. I would ask someone with experience building the uratu that's one I haven't considered building yet.

WERYNICEEE!

Also can u pm tha link I can’t find that color?

U convinced me when pet-gf dropped now you might’ve done it again

https://www.reddit.com/r/3D2A/s/uUTSK0wP8A

Nopel just dropped the files to print it.