Absolutely, I'll have a structural engineer tell me what to do at the very least, and if not too expensive and I can afford it, have them do it.

I unfortunately don't think the sellers I bought it from knew about it either. It seems that the attempted "repair" was in 2017, when the seller they bought it from still owned the house. So I don't think I have much recourse there.

While I do agree, jacking it up and replacing the wall is probably going to be part of the solution, I also have two other observations:

1. Get a structural engineer, or carpenter with construction expertise, to take on the responsibility. If you're doing this yourself and it fails, good luck convincing your insurance company that you did everything right.
2. Is the water coming through the porch and is dripping into your basement? And the seller didn't disclose this, even though they provably knew? Oh boy! I don't know the terms of your house purchase, nor the laws where you live, and I'm not a lawyer, but you may not have to pay for that engineer all by yourself.

First I would get two steel supports to put in now, posts that are strong enough to carry the weight for the interim; you can probably rent them or buy them relatively cheaply. Check that they can carry a few thousand kgs. Put these in place. Next, I would remove the wood work, and order steel beams that fit into either side of the hole. I would plan on inserting a horizontal steel carrier beam. Mind, if you do not feel comfortable to do this by yourself, you will have to get a professional to do it, after all, you don’t want the floor above to collapse.

Yeah, that's kind of where I'm at, too. I'll probably talk to an engineer, but this was definitely never intended to be load bearing.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that long concrete run was ever intended to be load bearing without support in the first place (but I am not an engineer).

Getting the engineer's advice is worth cost.

My guess is he'll say put in a proper top plate, either engineered or at least with 2x6/8 set on edge, not flat. With plenty of vertical support, 2x6 if theres room. Perhaps he'll say doubled 2x4 because of wall thickness.

This is how plates over house windows are done these days, for even single story.

But I'd spend the money.

Without some pictures I don't think I can give better advice than anybody else in here already provided. I repaired a busted hinge in an older HP Envy (huge laptop, high stress connection) with JB Weld. The hinge was metal with those heat-set nut inserts directly into thin ABS plastic so of course they ripped right out, straight from the factory. The repair has been holding for over a year now but the laptop sees very little use.

Goop adhesive.

Very strong, remains flexible to tolerate loads. Easy to apply.

Best thing about Goop - if you don't like how it works for a given problem, you can remove it! (It can be peeled off, though it's adheres very strongly.

I'd slather a bunch on the broken piece (enough so some will ooze inside the laptop and outside too), then push it in place and quickly rub off any that oozed out. Don't worry though, if you miss some on the outside, it can be rubbed off later after it cures - just don't pull on it as that will pull it out of the joint. Rub across the break - this will remove the excess without pulling it out.

That's where I'd start, and see how long the fix lasts. If it eventually did fail, then I'd use an epoxy like JB Weld/PC7. With JB Weld you want to have a solvent on hand to clean off any that oozes out onto the case (rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone, neither will dissolve the plastic).

I've sometimes used 2 adhesives like JB Weld and a couple spots of crazy glue. This would keep a piece in place with the crazy glue whole the JB Weld has time to cure.

I suspect you'd have success with one of these adhesives.

This is pointless without telling us the model and posting a picture.

I would suggest plastic welding with a variable temp soldering iron and a 3D printing pen if the plastic is ABS. Then sanding the joints smooth. Acetone or glues are a waste of time because the thin binding surface cannot provide any strength.

Hot glue is for pasta arts and crafts and Teslas.

Well, there are a lot of these computers going around the world all the time, and very seldom does anything like this happen. I just don’t want people thinking that PCs aren’t safe.

Have you tried uploading a picture?

Epoxy/ fiberglass? It'd be very messy unless you know what you're doing though. My dad would also swear by araldyte or something similar. But I wouldn't recommend lifting your notebook by the corner after the fix.

I've never found a perfect solution for plastic, mostly because it depends on the type of plastic I think.

For the hard plastic of a notebook case, and a join that's probably gonna be under some stress, I'd try epoxy. Consider sanding it a bit so it grips the plastic better, and clamp it down to apply pressure as it cures.

I make zero guarantees about this approach, like I've said, never had a good time with plastic.

Well, how was it un-typical?

Yeah, that’s not very typical. I’d like to make that point.

Yeah I almost ordered it precut from misumi, looking back it was a pretty good deal if they tapped the ends also because that was a bit of effort to get done

I love 2020! I wish it wasn't so expensive, but I also order it precut, maybe I need to look into a table saw...

Amazing work!

Wow :O