1
 
 

I tried to look this up but everything seems to be related to exterior load bearing walls..

A month or so ago, we noticed a good amount of water coming through the concrete porch into our basement. This portion of the 1940's basement below the porch used to be a garage, and sometime in the 90's (according to dates on portions of the sheetrock) they put in a wall where the garage entry was to expand the living space. I don't think this was load bearing when they put in the wall.

It seems like this leak was happening in 2017 as well, since new sheetrock was added and they tried to fix it with spray foam (which is obviously not water tight and did not fix the problem).

Anyway, I ended up ripping off the sheetrock to see the damage. All four sides of the framed wall are at least partially rotted, with the top and bottom plates completely compromised on the corners. This means that I should probably replace the entire wall, which would be "easy" if it wasn't load bearing..

However, over time and possibly accelerated with water intrusion, the concrete above has a long, horizontal crack which may go through both sides. The crack doesn't line up perfectly on both sides, but it's definitely possible that it's cracked all the way through. If that's the case, it means that this wall has now become load bearing, possibly holding up a portion of the porch above.

My thinking is that I could get a jack post (or a bottle jack and 4x4 post), put it in the middle, and then build framing on both sides with pressure treated 2x6s. Then I could remove the jack, and attach blocking between the two portions of new framing.

The other, more expensive but safer option would include talking to a structural engineer. I got a quote from one, and he wanted $900 to come take a look. I can afford it, I suppose, although I'm worried that he'll end up telling me what I already know.

Pictures below. Note that this is concrete on all 4 sides, and that the drywall has now been removed from both sides.

Here's the wall: Wall with exposed studs, showing damage and concrete on all 4 sides

And here's the crack on one side: Horizontal crack in concrete above wall

2
 
 

That's my personal PC, so I don't care about looks, I mostly want a strong connection to the whole notebook's bottom casing so I won't break it by touching that part of it while taking it up by it.

I have superglue, hot glue, metal sheets, can purchase screws and such, am not limited of basic supplies, but I have no idea how a pro would go about it.

Deeper description: it's occured to the bottom part of a notebook holding most hardware. The corner itself is empty so no hardware there. It broke off in one piece, but have itself two still intact details - one is a part of a flat surface that you put your hands on while working, the second is a bit rounded reaching the bottom.

I came to think I want to fix it with some sheet where it is flat, and then glue it to it's curvy bottom.

3
 
 

cross-posted from: https://leminal.space/post/24869981

I recently got a little tablet laptop, and learned that over thunderbolt you could plug in a GPU with a little dock board.

My desktop had a liquid cooled GPU so it became a whole thing to get it out and dockable.

I always wanted to mess with 2020 aluminum extrusion so this was my chance.

Its been a couple weeks work at this point and I'm in the home stretch. I have it running now so its just about tidying up and finding a good way to mount the acrylic panels after doing a final coolant flush

I also wanted to say thank you to all the comments from my last post when i first got my mitre saw for this project. it really made me be cautious when making my cuts, I always took my time clamping my pieces down and then going through the motion of making the cut with the saw powered off before making the cut https://leminal.space/post/24432635