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Initially available to fleet customers only, unfortunately.

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Im looking for a first car for about 3500€ which can hopefully last a few years daily commuting During my apprenticeship

Now, I come from a Toyota family, since they are reliable af in the engine Department, even if they (at least the yaris and prius from the 00s) drive pretty badly

But the aygos sold here for that price have extremely high mileage (as in 160k+), and even if they have been treated for Rust, which they have probably not knowing the people who drive a 2006 aygo base model without aircon), it tends to be very noticeable on the inside of the car and all the nice to have stuff

Now, I've been looking at the VW golf 3 door from about 03, they go for about 2800€ Max for like 100k, but from what I've heard VW, Audi and the likes tend to die around 100k, but they are just so great in every other aspect

So now I'm looking for comments from the car gods.

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I work at a BMW breakers’ yard in the UK (MT Auto Parts), and after a while you start seeing the same faults come through on the newer F, G and U cars again and again. We’ve started writing some of it up on our blog (link above): parts theft, which engines tend to last, OEM vs aftermarket wheels, and what to look out for when buying used parts.

I’m curious what other owners have dealt with. What’s the fault that caught you off guard, and how much did it end up costing to sort? Happy to help with any parts or fitment questions in the comments.

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Project Binky (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 2 weeks ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
 
 

Latest episode just out, my gods, the pain I feel for them, skip right to the end if your not invested in the whole build.

https://youtu.be/4uLI2G7YfQw

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Slow Drivers (lemmy.zip)
submitted 2 weeks ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
 
 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.zip/post/73943891

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Earlier this year I bought a 2023 Škoda Enyaq (iV80). Since it came with summer tires, I had to buy a new set for winter. I went with all season tires, but that’s beside the point.

When I drove the new tires a month ago, all was fine (afaict). Two weeks ago when on my way to another city, I noticed some rattling, like driving over a very uneven road. It persisted most of the travel (so anywhere between 90 and 130 km/h). On slower speeds (<=70 km/h) I didn’t notice it as much or even at all. I wasn’t sure, though, if I just started noticing something that was already there before or if it was indeed a new development.

I checked the tire pressure and drove a few more times on higher speed over the next two weeks to try and get more certainty. The symptom persisted.

Since I didn’t hear any sounds, only felt the vibrations (my whole body and arms shaking) I assumed it might be an imbalance in the wheels; maybe one of the weights fell off.

So I brought it back to where I bought the tires and they unmounted them all and rebalanced them. All were slightly off, but only between 20 and 40g per wheel.

When they were done and they remounted them, the guy who did it shouted over to his colleague regarding the torque, who proceeded to look in a table and shout back “140”. I was taken aback, because I was pretty sure I read 120. So I told him I am pretty sure the manual says 120Nm to which he just said “for an EV?!” and proceeded anyway. I clarified afterwards how much torque he used and he confirmed “140Nm”.

At home I checked the manual and indeed it said “no more than 120Nm”.

I loosened all the bolts and tightened them with 120Nm. But I now wonder: could they already have caused lasting damage? What if they already used 140Nm the first time? Could the symptoms I have be explained by damage caused by this? What are my best options now?

Thanks dear community!

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submitted 2 weeks ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
 
 
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submitted 2 weeks ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
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Its...ok.

It really is. Nothing special, but coming from a 1.6 diesel Ford Mondeo this feels practically space age. Looks good from the front and side, rear seems high. No frunk (front trunk), 300+ litre rear boot space, its not massive but is deep. Big enough if you're not going on holdiay in it. 19inch wheels are nice. Interior is surprisingly roomy and of all the circa 30,000 pounds Chinese cars I've tried (Jaecoo, Omoda, Cherry, Xpeng, MG, Deepal) this definitely has the best build quality and spec for the money. Lots of tech, heated seats and wheel. Touch screen is big, responsive and easy to use. Its fine. Some controls can be assigned to tactile buttons on the steering wheel. Interior colours are a combo of grays and more grays, dull, but the faux leather is very nice and again feels well made. Full glass roof adds element of space and can be closed to any degree. Handles ok, surprisingly spongey, but in a good way. I leave the steering on sport as it gives the most feedback. Smaller UK roads are notoriously poor and i live in a relatively rural area. The seats afford more comfort and do the suspension a favor. Leapmotor claim 0 to 60 of 6.6. With launch control in sport mode, it is way faster close to 5. It is seriously quick. ADAS safety features are a pain, but can all be turned off. Range is just south of 300 miles or 480 freedom units. Battery charges from 10 to 80 % in 18 mins on a fast charger. Rear wheel drive and decent handling mean you can chuck it around, but it does roll a lot. Feel like they could have put 18inch rims on it and dropped the ride height.

Its hard to say if this a hot hatch. Having owned a few I'd say no. Its certainly quick enough, but doesnt have the stiffness or theatre in looks or sound to be one. What it is, is a very well equipped, well built, decently quick and comfy, cheap to buy and run small family car.

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Maybe it's where I'm from? Shouldn't android be much more common with ~90% market share?

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The wheel hub on this corner hasn't be replaced in at least half a dozen years, so there's been no reason for the axle to come out. I've got a torn CV boot, and this car isn't really worth the $500 CAD for an axle replacement *at the shop

I've tried 1/2" drive tools, a shitty second hand mastercaft air gun, a 24" breaker bar, and a propane torch that seems to have fuel flow issues. and penetrant, of course. So far, hasn't budged.

update: thank you everyone for the advice, however I'm calling it. I got too many other unfinished tasks, I'll let this one go to the shop and do some OT this week in the time I'd have been fucking around with it.

I did drill into the rust around the threads and pry the washer collar off (there was no staked material left at all) to remove material and get penetrant in deeper, but this just isn't what I want to be working on right now.

edit: fuck it I did it

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My Golf:

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submitted 1 month ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
 
 
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goofy ahh car (lemmy.ca)
submitted 1 month ago by to c/cars@lemmy.world
 
 

luaz 969

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So uhh...the rear fell off.

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Some other offenders:

Grey car
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