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TS10 flaky switch remedies? (lemmy.ml)
submitted 1 week ago by to c/flashlight@lemmy.world
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The usual thing where the contact between the inner battery tube and the outer PCB ring gets unreliable. Cleaning the tube end fixes it temporarily but then it acts up again soon. This is a TS10SG if that matters. The problem is apparently common with TS10's and also (maybe less so?) with the Emisar KR1AA.

Is there a more permanent fix than cleaning? Like applying some kind of plating or coating? If they make a titanium body TS10v3, would that help, since it shouldn't oxidize the way aluminum does? Should I give up and get a D3AA? I'm not that keen on the D3AA because of the larger head diameter. Hey Hank, a narrower, single emitter D3AA would appreciated ;).

Was there a titanium KR1AA at one point? I don't see it listed now.

Thanks

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[–] 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (3 children)

It doesn't look like the TS10v3 is going to have a titanium version out of the gate. The guy posting early numbers on it started a survey to encourage Wurkkos to make it with fancy metals: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/would-you-like-a-fancy-metal-wurkkos-ts10v3/235834

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  • [–] [S] 1 point 1 week ago (2 children)

    There's no Ti option in that poll. Just Ti/Cu. No thanks.

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  • [–] 2 points 1 week ago (1 child)

    There is, it's just a poorly designed poll so it's hard to spot: "Please offer All Titanium, not with Copper"

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 week ago

    Hmm either I missed that option or it was added later. I don't understand the gripes about Ti in the comment thread. I have several Ti lights and they're heavy but otherwise great. I don't understand why anyone wants copper, which is even heavier and also oxides into green goo. Anyway thanks.

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