It's clearly a good game, and like you say it's doing some cool stuff. I love the art direction and the world building is really interesting. The graphics are beautiful too. The absorb system with the traits is an interesting take on character building.
I just find - more and more with age - that my enjoyment of struggling with games is decreasing. Maybe it's my skill and reflexes worsening, I don't know. I'm not getting much enjoyment out of super hard games anymore, and increasingly I notice that even if I manage to beat a particularly hard boss I don't feel that jubilant rush of elation afterwards but instead just feel a tired sense of "I'm glad I don't have to do that anymore".
It's funny though because I recently played through the whole Ninja Gaiden 3D franchise and those didn't give me that feeling despite being hard so maybe it really is just Soulslike fatigue.