The fan curves in your bios are likely tied to CPU temperature, and encoding is going to hit your cpu much harder than gaming will as it’s generally pegging every core at 100%. CPU temperatures can rise pretty quickly especially with an air cooler that doesn’t have as much thermal mass as a water loop. I’d check to see what temperatures it is actually hitting and maybe adjusting your fan curves accordingly. If you have a water cooler, I’d recommend pinning the fan curves to the coolant temp instead if you can as that will give you a more gradual curve.

you didn't mention the cpu model, but i noticed with my amd x3d the core temps rise rapidly and the fans react immediately. heat transfers rather slowly from the core up to the lid and heatsink because of the thick layer of L3 cache. the fans spinning fast doesn't help at all though

Hysteresis. Make sure your fan control software offers this. A lot of fan control software is dogshit/designed for older CPUs that didn’t heat up so quickly. You want hyateresis to even out the spikes. It’s essentially a delay in ramping up your fans.

I set my ramp up to be reletively quick, but ramp down to be a lot slower. I think 1 second ramp up, 2 seconds ramp down in my bios. If I had the choice it’d be 2 second ramp up and like 5 seconds for the ramp down.

That does seem to have been lasered, especially in that last image ending in So.jpg

I’ve had luck identifying ICs by wiping them with an alcohol swab and watching while the alcohol evaporates. I’ve also used a little baking powder to make the lettering stand out more.

I don’t expect you’ll get an ID on this one though.

Deltaco has really good fries for a taco place! 🤣

I couldn't find much either, but here are the markings on a cheaper version: https://youtu.be/1N6EwzDpR2A?t=321

It's a "Deltaco Prime Scart-Hdmi 1". Maybe you'll have better luck than me. 😅 I looked at their website, to no avail.

What's the board for? Is there any way to look up a datasheet or specs list on the whole thing?

It does appear that the chip was maybe laser ablated to hide the markings. Reminds me of the epoxy potting you still run across from time to time.

Twist it as many times as you can, it's all about getting the dirt out and distributing the lube 👍

Give any other pots (volume, bass/treble, whatever you have) a good squirt too while you're at it, to keep them in shape!

Thanks! I'll spray some of that spray onto the base/axis of the potentiometer and turn it back and forth a few times.

Thanks! I'll buy a can of that on my way home. Much appreciated!!!

Definitely this. Cleaning potentiometers, contacts, etc should be the first order if you have any noise in your stereo equipment. Replacing parts comes way down the list.

Edited to add: DeOxit is the best known brand of contact cleaner, and people swear by it. It may well be the best on the market, I don't know, but it's also superexpensive because you pay for the brand.

A little search for alternatives can easily halve the price, look for "no-brands" like CRC, TermoPasty or PRF...

Try some De-oxit contact cleaner first.

This is amazing! Thank you!

If you're willing to tap into the RF input of your various tape decks, the best way to digitize any analog video for long term preservation would be to use something like a modded CX card (or cards, depending on how many signals you need to capture at once), detailed in this wiki: https://github.com/oyvindln/vhs-decode/wiki

Software defined decoding from direct RF captures can result in quite a noticable improvement in quality compared to other solutions, and keeping the direct RF captures would be what you would want to archive, so that if/when future decoders get released, you can just feed the captures into the new decoder to potentially get an even higher quality output.

If you don't want to go through all that, though, then you need to consider what you think would be "good enough" in your eyes for what you are attempting to archive.

So, it's important to ground it because that's going to remove ground hum if you have it. But beyond that, in order for it to be grounded properly, you should ground it to your head unit or your mixer. If your mixer is grounded, then that's fine, that would work. Failing everything else, yeah, the nearby computer would probably work okay. But ideally, you want it grounded to the piece of equipment you've got it connected to. Incidentally, you'll know immediately if connecting it to the computer was a bad idea because if there's a difference in the ground voltage between your computer and your mixer, you will hear an immediate introduction of a humming noise or buzzing noise into the audio.

Either way, it's not really a safety issue, or shouldn't be, if you don't connect it to anything.

Now we're talking! Smort 🤯 I'll do some more reading and see what parameters to fiddle with! 🔧🔩

Maybe there's a way to build a filter in ffmpeg to simulate it and see what you think?

In this case, an IC that can "round off" the continuous ("floating point") analog signal with a higher resolution would mean that instead of having to choose between, say, light green or dark green, it could also choose very light green. Which is to say, I'm asking whether investing in an ADC that can work with more bits would make a significant improvement in subjective video quality, considering that the analog signal is at most early 2000's PAL.

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking, but Quantizing just rounds off the floating point value, essentially, so in this case it's working as a sort of passthrough buffer for the analog signal. Having more bandwidth isn't going to improve the quality of your transfers, if that's what you're asking.

Much obliged! 😊🙏 I actually haven't noticed any grounding outlets, wires or other things on the mixer and the monitors, but the vinyl player does have a ground, which I haven't connected to anything, since... I'm lazy? Would it suffice to just clip connect it against to the nearby radiator, or the computer chassi that's just next to it? 🤔

So you'll also find that both mixers and head units will have special inputs and ground posts for turntables, and that is because they output much lower levels, there's much less amplification built into those.

I bet you noticed that too, right?

Always rewarding to pass knowledge of the old ways to the new generation. Have fun! 😁

Make you some mixtapes!

I was just considering getting into cassettes since I have no physical audio media these days. I prefer those cases than CDs because the hinges snap too easily. But my gods cassettes have gotten so expensive. On discogs the CDs are always cheaper. Who would have thought cassettes would become gentrified!

MiniDisc was peak. I really wish they still manufactured the players and discs.

It's impossible to find a working MiniDisc recorder these days. I have two units and the record function thinks it works, completes the operation, then when I check playback there is nothing there.

I've contacted people selling these with the text "fully tested & working" in their description. In every case they haven't tested recording and when they do, it doesn't work.

It's such a shame. All our local electronics repair guys have retired and the current generation just do phones.

I never did follow up:

Tidal is the winner! Has all the features I wanted, and I haven't run into AI slop a single time. WELL worth the cost, especially since by the sound of it, a good chunk actually goes to the artists.

Thanks again for all the intel - you were an absolute goldmine in this thread! 🤘

Ah, thanks! I've been wondering about this for so long! As in, why my vinyl record player doesn't have a volume knob. Mystery solved! 🥰 Yep, the sound (all of my sound) goes to my mixer, which has volume controls and some EQ, which in turn goes to active studio monitors, which have volume control too.