No, but I feel this is the way with a federated network such as lemmy.

I get that you like your project, but was it really necessary to crosspost it five times?

...hot?

Your lap must be really weird

Not all that bad honestly!

Proper method: brad nails at the ends if viable, a bead of latex silicone caulking down the back if not, and then caulk the seams as needed after it is up and set. Wood glue, superglue, construction adhesive and anything else that creates a permanent bond should be avoided.

it totally should be. in my case it's actually box trim around a hidden sliding door. there's very little to grab onto so the previous guy just glued everything directly to the plasterboard.

it's finally installed, but still was a pita to scrape all that damn glue off.

Weird, I always just used sheets and a blanket.

I usually nail trim to the bed.

Only on the cold, though I almost never use the hot.

I'll look at finding a wire or sth. I reckon I can take it from here. Thanks for your help.

That style(Victorian) does not have an aerator in the spigot itself, so we can rule that part out.

You can, however still have a screen in the connectors of the supply lines.

Does it only happen on your cold tap on that sink or does the hot behave oddly as well?

That tap is very easy to rebuild. My guess at this point is that you have some corrosion or deposits in the faucet causing the behavior. If snaking something like a zip tie or wire into the mouth doesn't result in removal of anything, I'd consider pulling the tap apart(after shutting the water off and releasing the pressure). There's really only a couple rubber seals in it that are the consumables, the rest should be able to be reused after cleaning.

Added a picture of the tap. May get round to a video (can't do it now)

The bathroom tap downstairs clearly has an aerator, but it's a completely different model.

A photo or video would be very helpful, vid moreso since we could hear the whistle and sputter.

The only faucets I've ever seen without an aerator are the basin farm-style spigots that have become a recent fad. All others should have one equipped when sold. That's an important distinction to make because many people remove them without replacing them, usually due to poor pressure or not wanting to be bothered to go buy another one. Your faucet could be missing one for that reason.

I believe it's the only one. It's only recently started to sputter. It's like the water supply gets blocked momentarily.

Do all taps have aerators? The water on this tap - when it's behaving itself comes out in a solid stream, not like a shower.

Ah, maybe it's a laminar aerator. I can't see any such thing on the tap. I'll try to get a photo of the tap.

Replacing an aerator is a trivial process on most faucets. It usually involves unthreading the aerator from the faucet where the water comes out and places like home depot or other big box stores sell all popular shapes and sizes. Replacing it takes a couple minutes.

If by sputtering, you mean air escaping, however, that would be another issue entirely. Air being introduced into your plumbing means you could ha e a serious issue upstream.

Is this the only valve you have that sputters?

Coming out at an angle suggests that there might be deposits stuck inside the aerator. Sometimes this is as easy as unscrewing the aerator and removing the rocks and sediment found inside.

The sputtering and loud knocking noises suggest there's a bubble somewhere in the plumbing in the walls that is causing a water hammer. One possible way to clear this bubble is to fully open all plumbing fixtures at max, which will create enough water flow to push a bubble out. It's kinda like burping the pipes. You should do this with all aerators removed.

I never considered that, thanks for the input!

Thanks everyone! I think I'm gonna spring for something a bit bigger, maybe 8 gallons and 4-5 scfm.

I was thinking about renting a big one for spraying, but I'm a slow DIYer. It would end up costing me a good chunk of change to rent compared to spending a bit more for a bigger one up front.

I use a small, 3 gallon pancake type compressor for nailing and inflating 99% of the time. For rare use, rent a bigger compressor or it will just take up room and not really be portable.

I don't have much to add, since I haven't made the switch to pneumatic tools myself, but one bit of advice is to make sure you're using hoses with as wide of an internal diameter as possible. The connector at the ends is often wider than the internal hose diameter, which is what really matters for long hoses. If your chosen compressor is really loud, then you might want a longer hose to put it farther away, but then have to contend with the hose being a flow-rate constriction.

For nail guns and occasional texture work, I recommend a 24-liter compressor with at least 200 liters per minute (e.g., Abac Bambi 24/250 or Einhell TC-AC 240/8/10). If you plan to do texture work more frequently, a 50-liter model (e.g., Scheppach HC100D) would be the better choice.

You need a torque hammer

Ah. What a bummer. In that case, I suggest dynamite.