Very nice review. I am even more of a keyboard noob so I'll just add:

• Contains keys
• Keys are arranged on a board

Thanks. Yeah, all of the current new models are all row-staggered and non-ergo. I just can't do that anymore b/c RSI.

Yeah it's definitely affecting the switch mechanism, not the cap. If I remove the cap it still is sticky. I'll check the links later. Thanks!

Oh cool, glad it helped. I don't know the current key models but if you want to get even closer, try to find something with the same mechanism but a slightly heavier spring. Or swap the springs yourself if you're dedicated.

It still won't be perfect. When buckling springs actuate they pull the key downward a tiny bit (not to the bottom), and when they de-actuate they push the key back upward with a small force. That satisfying bouncy feeling just can't be replicated by linear springs. But the Kailhs come the closest IMO to matching the actuation force, press and release timing, and tactile clicky feeling.

There is also Unicom and ModelFKeyboards.com for true buckling springs, but those are all expensive and ugly IMO.

decepticons, rise up!

Thank you. This is exactly what I've been looking for.

I've asked the question "what's the closest switch to buckling spring" several times over the years, and I've gotten responses ranging from "there is nothing, but" to suggestions from people who've clearly never typed on a Model M. Or F.

A big issue I see is the belief - by even switch makers - that buckling spring meant a deep, close to bottom actuation. "Typist" switches all seem to be like this.

It's good to have the perspective of a buckling spring fan.

I myself haven't seen Cherry MX keys with non-removable keycaps...

I just reread and realised it was the switches that were non-removable and not the caps. But then what seems to be the difficulty?
Is it perhaps that the liquid that you spilt, got inside the switch? - IDK how that would have happened, but in that case you will just have to disassemble the switch (yes, open the single switch) to clean it. It should be doable without getting its bottom off the PCB, just a little harder.

I was originally expecting the stick to be happening duo to the keycap and the surrounding stuff, but if it is the switch itself, then the previously given solution won't work and you are better off using IPA and a Q-Tip inside the switch.

Maybe try one of these:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3WwCFpOv80
• https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2z9vye/how_to_safely_take_apart_a_cherry_mx_switch/
• https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17646.0

https://lowprokb.ca/products/sunset-tactile-choc-switches

I used a proper IBM Model M as long as I could. Nothing felt as good (except maybe the rarer Model F). But eventually I had to replace it.

So I got a sample pack at one point and was easily won over by Kailh bronze. Those are the next best thing to the buckling springs.

My partner hates the clicky sound though so I also got a set of the quieter purples. Those are almost as good.

Eventually I switched to Holy Pandas because I wanted something even better. They were expensive. Honestly, I think I prefer the Kailh bronze, for both work and gaming.

Just checked the Kailh website and looks like they have totally different models now so oh well, maybe this is no help.

But fuck Cherry. Their switches are inconsistent garbage.

even without hotswappable switches there's a good chance you'd be able to replace the switch anyway

if cleaning it doesn't work, you should be able to look up how to desolder and then replace the switch yourself. you should only need a cheap soldering iron, some wick, some solder, and a new switch.

as long as it's easy to physically get the keyboard apart, the switches should be just about the easiest thing to solder there is

Can I not disassemble it if it's attached?

One way might be to flush it with a spoonful of 99% IPA^[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol], followed by some wiggling and then using a compressed air-can to push wind into it from one direction, causing the IPA and the dirt mixed with it to come out of some gap in the opposite direction.

Since it is the Ctrl key (hoping it to be in the a corner as it usually is), you can tilt the keyboard such that the Ctrl key is on the bottom, then pour IPA on the higher corner of the key, such that it drenches the PCB under the key while flowing down and while you wiggle it. And then again, spray from the higher point, such that the exhaust is in the direction of the edges and corners, reducing the dirt that might transfer to other keys.

However, you might want to check just in case the back is removable. That should make stuff easier as you then won't require guessing which way the dirt solution might go in a closed box.

Either way, keep it for a while after you do the thing and before plugging it in (right, you need to unplug it first), so that most of the IPA is evaporated before you start it up.
Keyboards tend to be much simpler as compared to stuff like motherboards, so I'd guess using a hair dryer instead of compressed air should be fine too (just don't turn on the heat).

Oh look, another 75% keyboard kit. Just what the market is starving for. With a quality ABS plastic bottom case, and the pcb tape mod already done for you! What a steal for $150!

The V4 Pro already had some of this in mind, at least on the feel front. Although our commander in chief Dave James had it crap out on him, when it wasn't crapped out he could attest to it feeling pretty decent quality.

If that’s not a ringing endorsement, I don’t know what is. Also Razer software doesn’t do dick on MacOS, except infiltrate every part of the OS it can, and presumably send as much data as possible back to Razer. Hard pass on this bullshit, thanks. (No offense intended to OP. All intended offense is for Razer and their arrogance).

EDIT: Some editing